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2G Not passing smog because of monitors

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toojung2die

20+ Year Contributor
424
12
May 4, 2004
La$ Vega$, Nevada
1997 Eclipse Spyder GST a/t

OBD-II indicates I have three monitors stuck in a not ready condition. Nevada smog will allow up to 2 monitors not ready. Not ready are Catalyst, EGR system, Oxygen sensor heater.

There are no problem codes logged and no CEL. The car passes this part of the test. My friend runs the smog test station and he ran some diagnostics for me. Both O2 sensors are feeding back and the pre-cat sensor is in closed loop during idle. He reset the ECU and I drove almost a full tank of gas before bringing it back. The systems are still reading not ready and there is no CEL. The CEL turns on for about 5-10 seconds during start-up and goes out normally.

I replaced both O2 sensors and ran another half tank of gas, multiple trips. The sensors are still not ready with no errors logged and no CEL.

Mods: 3" catback exhaust, Injen style intake w/filter, "knock" LED on boost solenoid. All hoses, sensors and solenoids connected. Basically stock. Car runs great. What can I do before I have to take my baby to visit Satan.
 
FYI: It appears that its a federal mandate for the "up to 2 sensor's not ready: OK" rule, not limited just to certain states


My car ('97 ESi, NOT the '95 AWD) failed because I had 4 monitors not ready. I know, I should've checked it BEFORE I took it (my Innova code scanner gives me flags status), but I been drove it about 2 tanks since the last reset, and thought I was good.

Anyway, as of now the Evap readiness flag is still not ready. I read this entire thread, and also the EPA's website trying to find information since someone else mentioned that in their state they can have up to 2 flags not ready and still pass.

This appears to be a federal criteria, not just state. I read some old documents on EPA's website proposing the exception back in 2001, but couldn't find anything set in stone.

Anyways I called the Test-Only smog shop I took mine originally. I told them I failed, and can't seem to get the Evap flag to "ready". The tech said not to worry, and that 2 sensors can show not ready and you'll still pass.

I didn't even mentioned what I found on the EPA's website. Also I don't think he's pulling BS since I still have a free re-test.

I'll reply after I get my car smogged tomorrow with an update.

I know its somewhat of a different situation than most of what you guys are experiencing... but this is pretty much is the official DSM smog thread ;)
 
Guy I brought my car from had the same problem. Monitor not ready. As long as you pass smog and get a waiver from the state ref, you'll be fine no sweat. But you might have to pay more because of the ref.
Mine is coming up in Jan. It's almost 8 months since I bought my gst. Hopefully now the monitor is ready. If not, I call Mitsu a BS company!
 
Hey people,

I am having this issue with my 96 talon TSI AWD after about 3 - 4 hours of reading online I got a headache and a lot of it was over my head so I found this number online to contact the CA state ref. 1-800-622-7733 I got a hold of an agent and she immediately knew what I was talking about she asked for my failed smog sheet and my cars VIN and set me up with an appointment at the ref tomorrow to get a test and he will overlook the monitors if they are not being set correctly. I have to pay $8.25 for the certificate if it passes. So for everyone in CA this will hopefully work for me then in turn work for you. I will post up my results tomorrow.
 
My 96 GSX Passed its smog check today!!! How you ask??? :confused:

What I did was I talked with the smog test guy I went too first!!! He is aware of the proplem with these and some of the other vehicals on the exemption list. I showed him the EPA documents showing were these vehicals only require a visual mil lamp check and not a full monitor rediness check.

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/im/obd/regtech/420f08009.pdf
http://epa.gov/otaq/regs/im/obd/r01015.pdf

If I am not mistaken I beleve the actual test equipment ask the technician if the car requires and obd2 functional check. The smog tech Should be checking the No box only for the Vehicals on the exemption list and continuing on with the rest of the required smog test. As long as your car is mechanically sound and your mill light is not on, You should not have a problem...

Hope this helps others! :thumb:
 
My 96 GSX Passed its smog check today!!! How you ask??? :confused:

What I did was I talked with the smog test guy I went too first!!! He is aware of the proplem with these and some of the other vehicals on the exemption list. I showed him the EPA documents showing were these vehicals only require a visual mil lamp check and not a full monitor rediness check.

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/im/obd/regtech/420f08009.pdf
http://epa.gov/otaq/regs/im/obd/r01015.pdf

If I am not mistaken I beleve the actual test equipment ask the technician if the car requires and obd2 functional check. The smog tech Should be checking the No box only for the Vehicals on the exemption list and continuing on with the rest of the required smog test. As long as your car is mechanically sound and your mill light is not on, You should not have a problem...

Hope this helps others! :thumb:

Thanks bro, you just saved me alot of trouble....
 
Not to revive, but I came across this, and thought I would let anyone in Nevada know that if you have this problem, take it to the dmv smog lab, and they will waive emissions completely for you ;) happened on my 97 auto gst.
 
Not to revive, but I came across this, and thought I would let anyone in Nevada know that if you have this problem, take it to the dmv smog lab, and they will waive emissions completely for you ;) happened on my 97 auto gst.

Congratulations. I started this thread with post #1. I tried that strategy years ago at NV DMV smog lab on Sahara Blvd. and failed to change their mind set. Good to hear they finally got it together and you didn't spend what I spent to resolve the smog problem. Thanks to everyone that contributed to getting this issue resolved legally.

Big Thanks to DSMlink for high performance tuning and passing smog tests.
 
Congratulations. I started this thread with post #1. I tried that strategy years ago at NV DMV smog lab on Sahara Blvd. and failed to change their mind set. Good to hear they finally got it together and you didn't spend what I spent to resolve the smog problem. Thanks to everyone that contributed to getting this issue resolved legally.

Big Thanks to DSMlink for high performance tuning and passing smog tests.

I am pretty sure thats the lab I had to go to. It was a hassle but I got them to waive it after paying for 3 failed tests,and a bunch of driving that they would tell me would "reset" my monitors
 
Dsmchips can reflash your 97-99 ecu now. It fixes this problem permanently, only costs about $120 after shipping & core charge.
 
So does buying and dsm chip fix all problems for the not setting readiness?

I've been reading thru this for about an hour now and OMG this is imo a bunch of poo on Mitsubishis part, I mean they shoouldve provided an ecu that actually worked.. :notgood:
Im surprised that everyone is having the same problems...
Still not sure on what to do to fix this problem on my 97 gst.. Dsmlink with eprom chip? Or a new ecu or an older one from like a 95 gst? Just a lil confusing.. Especially when I've never messed with dsmlink or tuning in general.. Bottom line is i just wanna get my car on the road.. :confused:
 
A new DSMchip will NOT fix readiness flags problem. I have a 1995 ECU with a chip from DSMchips for 720 injectors. I still have the flags not set and had to get a waiver from Missouri for the problem.

I don't know about the reflashed ECU's.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is ridiculous about the the code being not ready the state should really do something about this or something this is gouging in the first degree! Well don't feel to bad, over here in california it's crazy smogging a dsm is like solving a rubics cube haha I got popped by a officer and sent to the damn referee where he pretty much said my boost gauge, turbo timer, boost controller, Bov (obviously) silicone hose breather, 3 inch downpipe, intake were all illegal....after crying myself to sleep that night I got to work it sucked
 
Other than the OBDII Wiki article this thread seems to contain the most info related to the OBDII readiness monitor issue found in 97-98 4G63 Eclipse/Talon platforms.

I have an early 97 TSI AWD auto (build date July 96) that I could not get to set all monitors to "ready" in order to pass AZ emissions testing. I thought I was following the TSB-03-13-005 drive cycle instructions carefully but I was not.

Once I understood the exact procedure required, the ECU set all the conditions to "READY" and I easily passed the OBDII test.


I have boiled down the test procedures to only what applies to the 97-98 Eclipse/Talon and pointed out why the test appeared to not working for me at first.

In my testing I only had a Scan Gauge II monitor on the OBDII port. It would allow me to read and reset CEL codes and to see the status of drive-cycle monitors as incomplete or complete (output as a hexadecimal code). Newer Actron scanners usually will show the Readiness Monitors named in a list so that you can see what has been completed.


The biggest thing I can warn you about during the first drive-cycle testing period is to trust yourself that you are making progress even though the scanner will not show a single test has completed (even if the entire first cycle testing has been done successfully). You will not see any updates on a diagnostic scanner until you have successfully completed at least one test of the second drive cycle. At that point you would see one test show "complete" and know you are on the right track. This is what originally fooled me into thinking I was not doing the testing correctly so I was inclined to stop and drive home instead of continuing the testing.

Other quick notes before starting:
Ignore anything you read on the OBDII TSB linked above about the Strict Evap Leak Monitor Test. 97-98 Eclipse/Talon 4G63 use Purge Flow Monitoring.
Forget what you’ve heard about the testing needing to start when the engine is cold or that you only have 16 minutes to complete some of the requirements. That only applies to the Strict Evap Test and that does not apply to the models we are concerned about.

The engine needs to be above 180F for all testing.
One drive-cycle is defined to be the engine being started and turned off in one session. The first list of four tests should be completed all in one drive-cycle. If you turn the key off you will need to run the list all over from the top.

The four test may be run in any order but I like to do the hard tests first and I usually pick a very early Sunday morning when traffic is very light and when speeding up and slowing down will cause the least concern. In my case I choose a 8 mile length of freeway that also had a frontage road so I had a choice of speed ranges I could safely travel.

FIRST DRIVE CYCLE
Here are the four tests in the order I like to run them.

CATALYST MONITOR
Engine must be warm and driven at freeway speeds for a minute or two and then start the following:
Drive at a constant speed for two full minutes. During these two minutes you must not exceed 2600 RPM nor allow the throttle to return to full idle position. After two minutes have elapsed fully release the accelerator and coast for 10 seconds. Repeat 6 times.

In my case I simply held 2500 RPM on the freeway for two minutes and then when no one was behind me I left off the gas and coasted for 10 seconds. I then repeated that 5 more times. You do not have to complete this six times in a row. If you run into traffic just re-start the two minute timer once you get back up to speed. If you feel you might have messed one up then do a 7th or 8th routine to be sure you have 6 good cycles.

Cliff Notes: Drive 2 minutes on freeway at 2200-2500 RPM (if you exceed 2600 RPM or close the throttle, re-start timing). After 2 minutes elapse, coast for 10 seconds (Repeat 6 times).

EGR MONITOR
Engine must be warm. Drive 20 seconds at 40 MPH at between 2400-2600 RPM (A/T models set overdrive to “OFF”). After 20 seconds release throttle and coast until speed drops to 20 MPH. Wait approximately 5 more seconds. Repeat the test 8 times in the first cycle only.

Cliff Notes: Drive 20 seconds at 40 MPH maintaining 2400-2600 RPM (MT tranny in 3rd or 4th, Auto tranny O/D off). After 20 seconds release throttle and coast to 20 MPH then wait 5 more seconds before repeating 8 times.

O2 SENSOR
This one is easy to complete if your O2 sensors are in good condition. Warm engine. Drive for 2 minutes at 40 MPH. RPM range required (A/T 1100-3000 RPM, M/T 1500-3000 RPM). Required only once per drive-cycle. Told you it was easy.

PURGE FLOW MONITOR
I do this one last in the cycle because the car is already warmed up good and you do it while parked. Simply shift into Park or Neutral and idle for a full 5 minutes. All accessories must be off with no electrical loads, do not apply brake or have your sound system thumping. Steering wheel should be centered and not turned during the 5-minute test. The ECU must see that the intake air controller is in use, that the system is operating in Closed Loop and that the TPS sensor shows the gas pedal is not depressed (idle switch on). This is easy….just park the car while idling and don’t turn anything on or touch the gas pedal.

This completes one full drive cycle and remember that all of the above 4 tests must have been completed without the key ever being cycled off.
If you have successfully completed all test within the first drive cycle unfortunately you have no way to know that at this point. Even the fancy dealership computer boxes will not indicate any updates at this time. Now you can turn the car off, wait 10 seconds or more and then begin the second drive cycle.

SECOND DRIVE CYCLE
Repeat the above four tests again except this time you should only have to do each test once. There should be no need to repeat the EGR and CAT test multiple times as in the first drive-cycle. If you have an OBDII tester that shows when a ready condition has been met then you should start to see the individual tests on the list show “complete” status as you work through this second cycle. Once all four show complete you should then see the OBDII Readiness condition change from “NOT READY” to “READY”.

At this point, turning off the ignition should not erase or forget any of the testing you just performed. The only time you will completely have to start over is if the battery is removed from the car or if you reset a CEL light at any time.
In the future if you get any CEL light it is much better NOT to force a reset or you will have to go through this whole process again before you could pass emissions testing.

If you have a CEL light it is sometimes better to fix the condition but not immediately reset the light. Normal driving over the next few days will reset the CEL light on its own if you have fixed the problem and you won’t have to completely start all over with this complicated OBDII Drive-Cycle process.

Mitsubishi Motors Technical Service Bulletin
http://www.obdclearinghouse.com/OBD-CH/documents/newdocuments/mitsubishi/tsb0313005.pdf




Cut and paste this text to a printable document for quick reference in the vehicle.


CATALYST MONITOR TEST
Drive 2 minutes on freeway at 2200-2500 RPM (if you exceed 2600 RPM or close throttle, re-start timer). After 2 minutes elapse, coast for 10 seconds. (Repeat 6 times).

EGR TEST
Drive 20 seconds at 40 MPH maintaining 2400-2600 RPM (MT tranny in 3rd or 4th, Auto tranny O/D off). After 20 seconds release throttle and coast to 20 MPH then wait 5 more seconds. (Repeat 8 times).

O2 SENSOR
Drive for 2 minutes at 40 MPH. RPM range required (A/T 1100-3000 RPM, M/T 1500-3000 RPM).

PURGE FLOW MONITOR
Park the car while idling and don’t turn anything on or touch the brake or gas pedal for 5 minutes.

Turn off ignition, wait ten seconds, restart and repeat each test (but only one cycle is required so this will not take nearly as long as the first cycle.
Check OBDII for “ready” condition.
 
its that time of the year again for emissions. Last year it took me about 25 minutes to convince the emissions tester that my car was and can be consider an Eclipse. Immediately after my emissions test I wrote my congressman as well as the EAP Contact Gene Tierny. Gene said that they will look in to it. Well, I pulled the new OBD Readiness Testability Issues document and to my surprise, the Eagle Talon Turbo is listed there!!

Eagle
1996-8
Talon with 2.0L Turbo
All monitors reset to incomplete upon every ignition key-off
These vehicles are not reflashable and should be tested without regard to monitor readiness
 
READ ME
Ok guys, I had the same b.s. issue - I thought worrying about crankwalk was bad enough but Mitsubishi adds another point to their long ### up list. I tried the drive cycles to have the readiness monitors come on with no luck. I decide to take it to Mitsubishi and see what kind of crazy prize they would come up with to plug in the odb machine they plug in according to the forums. Luckily the service manager was busy and one of the service agents talked to me while I waited. He knew exactly what I was talking about and told me he was gonna save me the large crazy bill they charge for that. So this is all you do to have the monitors come on: :thumb:

Drive the car between 40-100 Miles and take it to the smog station or check it with the odb scanner. The monitors will be set as long as you DO NOT turn the car off after the drive. Once you turn off the car, the monitors will reset and start flashing again once you turn the car back on. Don't ask me why or how? All I know is that the service agent from Mitsubishi told me to do it and it worked. Hope this helps and works for you guys as well.
 
READ ME
Ok guys, I had the same b.s. issue - I thought worrying about crankwalk was bad enough but Mitsubishi adds another point to their long ### up list. I tried the drive cycles to have the readiness monitors come on with no luck. I decide to take it to Mitsubishi and see what kind of crazy prize they would come up with to plug in the odb machine they plug in according to the forums. Luckily the service manager was busy and one of the service agents talked to me while I waited. He knew exactly what I was talking about and told me he was gonna save me the large crazy bill they charge for that. So this is all you do to have the monitors come on: :thumb:

Drive the car between 40-100 Miles and take it to the smog station or check it with the odb scanner. The monitors will be set as long as you DO NOT turn the car off after the drive. Once you turn off the car, the monitors will reset and start flashing again once you turn the car back on. Don't ask me why or how? All I know is that the service agent from Mitsubishi told me to do it and it worked. Hope this helps and works for you guys as well.

READ THIS!
Your trick will not always work. Driving 40-100 miles might accidentally set all of the rediness monitors but even if they do set correctly, the first thing the inspectors do when you go to an emissions station is they INSIST that you turn off the engine.

You should just follow these very specific guidlines that I posted only two posts above and this will reset the rediness monitors properly.
 
Last edited:
OKay, prob not my place in this forum... usually on MiragePerformanceForum but not solution to problem there...

So i have a 1997 mitsubishi mirage 1.8l ls 4g93 almost everything stock but body and intake. Readiness monitors refuse to complete...Put a differnt ecu, nothing... spent $780 at a shop, nothing...
Now my car was on the execption list EPA420-R-01-015 that said my car was to be tested disreguarding the readiness status, but in May of 2011 they took my car off the list and didnt provide a solution to the problem...
ive call Mr. Gene Tierny mulitple time and left mulituple messages, no reply...
called every dealership in the PHX area where i live and nothing....
Mark Mitsubishi on 43rd and glendale wants to charge me $300 for diag... ha ha yeah right SATAN
An emissions shop in PHX said they will hook up a scan tool for free, heading there in 3 hours...

Now ive found info stating that my car has had problems between the years of 1995-2002 with the ECU not setting readiness status but NEVER a solution...

I called ADEQ and they said in 2008 and 2010 my car passed with ALL 5 monitors ready, which is almost impossilbe unless they disreguarded the readiness status or have the dealership increase sesitivity of the ECU but Arizona Emissions Stations require you turn off your car before they begin test and that would clear all readiness, and readiness is the last thing to be checked here in AZ when doing emissions. Arizona Department of Emissions Quality REFUSES to unlock my VIN so i can be retested...

Im pretty much stuck and everywhere i call to try to find a solution said i should buy a new car.. ha ha yeah not going that route.

ANYONE HERE HAVE ANY LUCK? i wanna know why my car was taken off the exception list without a solution avalible
im pretty much stuckk
 
OKay, prob not my place in this forum... usually on MiragePerformanceForum but not solution to problem there...

So i have a 1997 mitsubishi mirage 1.8l ls 4g93 almost everything stock but body and intake. Readiness monitors refuse to complete...Put a differnt ecu, nothing... spent $780 at a shop, nothing...
Now my car was on the execption list EPA420-R-01-015 that said my car was to be tested disreguarding the readiness status, but in May of 2011 they took my car off the list and didnt provide a solution to the problem...
ive call Mr. Gene Tierny mulitple time and left mulituple messages, no reply...
called every dealership in the PHX area where i live and nothing....
Mark Mitsubishi on 43rd and glendale wants to charge me $300 for diag... ha ha yeah right SATAN
An emissions shop in PHX said they will hook up a scan tool for free, heading there in 3 hours...

Now ive found info stating that my car has had problems between the years of 1995-2002 with the ECU not setting readiness status but NEVER a solution...

I called ADEQ and they said in 2008 and 2010 my car passed with ALL 5 monitors ready, which is almost impossilbe unless they disreguarded the readiness status or have the dealership increase sesitivity of the ECU but Arizona Emissions Stations require you turn off your car before they begin test and that would clear all readiness, and readiness is the last thing to be checked here in AZ when doing emissions. Arizona Department of Emissions Quality REFUSES to unlock my VIN so i can be retested...

Im pretty much stuck and everywhere i call to try to find a solution said i should buy a new car.. ha ha yeah not going that route.

ANYONE HERE HAVE ANY LUCK? i wanna know why my car was taken off the exception list without a solution avalible
im pretty much stuckk

if Arizona is anything like new jersey take the car to a private shop that does inspections and explain to them what is going on and see if they can go threw with the inspection without turning the car off. Personal i have never heard of individual cars being taken off the exemption list. If your car is exempt your cars exempted. Then again different states different policies. Good luck.
 
ANYONE HERE HAVE ANY LUCK? i wanna know why my car was taken off the exception list without a solution available
I'm pretty much stuck

Do what this woman did. Sue the bastards in small claims court and if the results are one tenth of the publicity she garnered it'll be more than worth the time and effort. Small claims court may be the way to go forward. She was unhappy with gas mileage. We have a REAL complaint.

Dont Settle With Honda, Heather Peters
 
In missouri. You can have emissions waived entirely. The only thing needed to pass is obdII communications. My inspections sheet, has DNA and NA in the pass/fail section for all the readiness monitors, cel, egr system, etc. It nice having a 97 that doesnt need emissions.
 
READ THIS!
Your trick will not always work. Driving 40-100 miles might accidentally set all of the rediness monitors but even if they do set correctly, the first thing the inspectors do when you go to an emissions station is they INSIST that you turn off the engine.

You should just follow these very specific guidlines that I posted only two posts above and this will reset the rediness monitors properly.

AZDAVE,

I'm glad that you have enough road space in Arizona to be performing the "very specific guidelines." :thumb: Not the case here in the city; where straight away unpopulated roads are very scarce. Heck! the damn Delorean would run out straight away road way before 88mphROFL You are correct, the smog guys will ask you to turn off the car. However, in my case they were understanding of the situation after seeing that the readiness monitors would not set - so they were ok with me leaving the car on after I came back the next day. This forum isn't about "mines the best way," it's about what best works for someone in their situation. That is why everyone's own experience and feedback greatly helps out when it comes to things like these.
 
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