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NOS (Nitrous) with turbo?

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eazy2g

10+ Year Contributor
167
1
Jul 28, 2009
925/510, California
Okay, so I've dug around a bit and read the vfaq on nos but not really finding what I want or need to know. Maybe I'm just being lazy.

I'm thinking of getting a NOS kit. Venom now makes a wet computerized kit with a 10lb can thats not to bad in price.

My mod list can be found here - Linky


I want to "go fast" and max out what I currently have. Will the kit work, break, or is it even worth it? What do you guys think?


Thanks,

E
 
Reading yuor mod/parts list I wouldnt recomend NOS, at least with stock internals. If want NOS upgrade to fiorged internals less risk of frying them that way. I dont have personal exp woth stock internals and NOS but I have heard several stories.
 
I loved spaying my TransAM and am looking at a kit for my spyder when my new motor finally gets done. I'd say spray it. Just remember to change your oil more often. Also run a wet kit. Can you post the kit your looking at. A lot of people are scared of nitrous because the don't understand it or say bottles are for babies. But I say fast is fast. Plus I like it because its not constantly beating on your engine like high boost levels do. I've got more research to do because I've never sprayed a turbo car but do the research and it can be reliable.
Here's the kit I've been looking at.

NOS
 
I loved spaying my TransAM and am looking at a kit for my spyder when my new motor finally gets done. I'd say spray it. Just remember to change your oil more often. Also run a wet kit. Can you post the kit your looking at. A lot of people are scared of nitrous because the don't understand it or say bottles are for babies. But I say fast is fast. Plus I like it because its not constantly beating on your engine like high boost levels do. I've got more research to do because I've never sprayed a turbo car but do the research and it can be reliable.
Here's the kit I've been looking at.

NOS

Why does one need to change their oil more often with nitrous? :confused:
 
Why does one need to change their oil more often with nitrous? :confused:

Nitrous washes down your cylinder walls every time you spray. It kind of acts like a solvent drying out the cylinder alot more than gas alone does. So you want to change your oil more often to keep it as heavy and clean as you can. This is what I was told years ago and have believed my self because I've never had a motor fail from spraying it.

The venom system looks nice but I don't know that they make it anymore. Plus I don't trust dry systems. If your injectors are almost maxed out it would be hard for them to get the extra fuel you need into the motor. Do some research on some wet systems they are very user friendly, and its easy to make two stage systems. Say you want to spray 25hp off the line for spool up and the 75 shot going down the line.
I know when I dynoed my TransAM with a 100 shot, 98hp hit the wheels.
 
I've ran a 55hp shot on one of my other cars for years and never heard of the oil change interval needing to be different. My shot was a relatively small one, so maybe that has something to do with it.

I've always just assumed that the liquid N2O gets burned into nitrogen and oxygen (both which are abundant in normal air) and went out the tailpipe with everything else, not effecting anything adversely (unless it is too much power for the motor, or the AFR's are bad etc etc)

Anyone else ever heard of this practice? On my other car (supercharged) there is a pretty long intake tack, so I'm guessing the liquid has turned to gas by the time it reaches the combustion chambers. I've never really thought about what effect the liquid itself may have entering the combustion chamber since mine gets injected so far upstream that I don't think it really matters.
 
Ok to get my own facts right I looked into it some more. The reason for more frequent oil changes seems to be for wet system because your spraying more fuel into the cylinders and you can cause cylinder wash down from to much fuel. So I was wrong about it acting like a sovlent.
 
Nitrous washes down your cylinder walls every time you spray. It kind of acts like a solvent drying out the cylinder alot more than gas alone does. So you want to change your oil more often to keep it as heavy and clean as you can. This is what I was told years ago and have believed my self because I've never had a motor fail from spraying it.

The venom system looks nice but I don't know that they make it anymore. Plus I don't trust dry systems. If your injectors are almost maxed out it would be hard for them to get the extra fuel you need into the motor. Do some research on some wet systems they are very user friendly, and its easy to make two stage systems. Say you want to spray 25hp off the line for spool up and the 75 shot going down the line.
I know when I dynoed my TransAM with a 100 shot, 98hp hit the wheels.

After going through the vfaqs I figured to better go with the wet kits if I do decide. But how can you tell the venom is a dry kit?
 
Ok to get my own facts right I looked into it some more. The reason for more frequent oil changes seems to be for wet system because your spraying more fuel into the cylinders and you can cause cylinder wash down from to much fuel. So I was wrong about it acting like a sovlent.

Ahhh that makes sense. Mine is a dry kit so that's probably why I didn't ever hear anything about more frequent oil changes in my research.

I've thought about putting the kit on the talon... it's a "ZEX" kit, but I just wouldn't feel comfortable putting a dry kit on a 4g63, since they are already ran on the edge of timing and air/fuel. A wet kit, on the other hand, I think would be fine.

To answer the question of the original poster: When considering nitrous oxide on any car, as long as you don't exceed the limits of the engine, and set everything up correctly, you'll be fine. I've seen plenty of people run 400hp on a stock bottom end, so I see no problem with running a little bit of nitrous. Heck, on a stock car you could probably run a 100hp shot without issues, but it may be wise to retard the timing by a couple degrees.

Adding nitrous oxide to an engine is no different than adding power in any other way. As long as your AFR's are good, and as long as you are making power within the limits of the engine, you should be fine. The added bonus of a wet kit is that you dont need to worry about getting bigger injectors to compensate for the extra power, since the needed fuel is injected with the nitrous oxide, independent of the fuel injectors. However, since the wet kit steals fuel from the fuel rail, an upgraded fuel pump is recommended so you can maintain good fuel pressure.

EDIT: I thought I would also add: The "Venom" kits, in my opinion, are way too expensive for what they are. Go with a nitrous express kit, you wont be disappointed!
 
if its a wet kit it will have nitrous and a fuel soleniod. Nitrous will also cause more blow by. a 50hp shot of nitrous is like 125 lbs of torque. it causes the turbo to spool super fast. it harder on you drive train but it will make a huge diff. on a turbo car. The nitrous will also lower the intake temps because its so cold.
 
the difference in a wet and dry kit is that the wet kit comes with both fuel sileniod and a nitrous sileniod. a dry kit comes with just a nitrous sileniod. also be smart when you spray as me and a bunch of freind spray v8's and be sure to put a purge on dont leave it out cause your lazy or whatever iv watched so many nitrous backfires. i was in a car when it backfired and blew the intake off and broke a rod along with blew a headgasket. but nitrous is fun and easy power.

and just for the input LS motors are just plain nasty on spray i own one so i know i had a 200 shot on mine at 1 piont hahaha 70mph rolling burnouts. and dont start saying anything because i brought up LS motors.

also i heard for turbo cars wet shot is the best shot. its safer or something not sure how true that is.
 
I've ran a 55hp shot on one of my other cars for years and never heard of the oil change interval needing to be different. My shot was a relatively small one, so maybe that has something to do with it.

I've always just assumed that the liquid N2O gets burned into nitrogen and oxygen (both which are abundant in normal air) and went out the tailpipe with everything else, not effecting anything adversely (unless it is too much power for the motor, or the AFR's are bad etc etc)

Anyone else ever heard of this practice? On my other car (supercharged) there is a pretty long intake tack, so I'm guessing the liquid has turned to gas by the time it reaches the combustion chambers. I've never really thought about what effect the liquid itself may have entering the combustion chamber since mine gets injected so far upstream that I don't think it really matters.

I was told the N2O isn't actually flammable itself. Something to do with a chemical reaction with octane which splits the O off the N2O leaving N2, a stable gas that provides a cooling effect, and a bunch of O's that combine into O2?

Nitrous is very cool indeed. I want to see a high compression NA motor on a wet shot with E85...

All boost, no juice for the Talon though.
 
yea you are right no2 itself is not flamable. only when mixed with fuel because it cools the cylinder temp down for better combustion whitch allows more fuel to be shoved in. so the whole fast and the furious run its gonna blow cause there is nitrous is just a load of shit.
 
nitrous (no2) isnt flameable. Nitrogen is used for cooling and oxygen is for more air. More air equals the demand for more fuel which in turn makes more power. in a sence nitrous is just an oxidizer.

i personally have ran it on my 2.0t
 
2.0t as in our motors or as in another motor. if our motor what shot and how did it react.
 
its was in our engines. I didnt spray in first, but after first i sprayed from 3k to 8.5k (shifted at 9k)it instantly spools. its like the first fast and furious. Once you hit it, it puts you in your seat. For every 25hp shot you can expect 75 foot pounds of torque. This isnt a joke, it spools the turbo soo fast and makes the intake temp so cold and dense. The one thing you must do is have some sort of rpm based window switch. because it will spool so fast you will hit the rev limiter and it will back fire into the intake and blow the couplings off. (trust me i know)
 
wow so our motors take it pretty good then i take it. now did u have it on a push button or a wide open throttle switch cause i have a wide open throttle switch on my 98 ls1 z28 and it doesnt quit sprayin til i let out. also what shot and what turbo were u using.
 
i ran mine off an arming switch then to my aem ems. my ems controls when its sprays and what gear
 
oh ok well that way puts me out LOL cause i dont have the money for aem ems. i may just try it a couple different way til i find one that i like since i guess i can say im experienced with nitrous since iv put it on other peoples cars including mine.
 
nos brand sells window switches. that are rpm based. check out jegs.com

dsmlink will do it too along with a chip from jeff at keydiver
 
ok well what about v3 lite u think it might. i will check for windows switches to real quick.
 
im not sure about lite. get on ecm forums and ask

there was a guy that ran a 200 shot on a stock block and stock 14b turbo and ran a 10 sec 1/4 the video is on youtube somewhere
 
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