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NOS (Nitrous) with turbo?

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eazy2g

10+ Year Contributor
167
1
Jul 28, 2009
925/510, California
Okay, so I've dug around a bit and read the vfaq on nos but not really finding what I want or need to know. Maybe I'm just being lazy.

I'm thinking of getting a NOS kit. Venom now makes a wet computerized kit with a 10lb can thats not to bad in price.

My mod list can be found here - Linky


I want to "go fast" and max out what I currently have. Will the kit work, break, or is it even worth it? What do you guys think?


Thanks,

E
 
ok so say i want it there from 2500 to 6000 i can set that to do so so that it will start spraying at 2500 and quit at 6000.
 
alright sweet thanks guy you have been a great help for me:hellyeah: time to go blow something up hahahha
 
LOL nitrous is deff the cheapest way to go fast on a turbo car. you can build full boost in 3rd gear at 1200 rpms with a 14b and a 50 shot LOL
 
After going through the vfaqs I figured to better go with the wet kits if I do decide. But how can you tell the venom is a dry kit?

Beacuse the kit doesn't list a fuel soleniod, plus it talks about using your stock fuel injectors to compensate for extra fuel.
Kits include:

* Nitrous bottle and mounting brackets
* Control module
* Display unit
* Wiring harness
* Switch
* Nitrous solenoid
* Mounting hardware
* Installation instructions (including a vehicle-specific wiring diagram)
 
i thought you had to change your oil more often with nitrous because they add some kinda sulfur so you can smell it if it leaks. when it hits the oil sulfuric acid can form. i wonder how medical nitrous would treat things. nitrous split into nitrogen which is inert and pure oxygen which is like more air but more potent. i wouldn't see the big deal with a small shot, like 35, and it will make your turbo spool hella quicker. just like boost you need a fuel system capable of delivering more fuel to make up for the added air. it's considered forced induction.
 
Oh and its not recommend to spray if your using and S-AFC alone to controle your fuel, because the SAFC will turn up your timing if your compensating for larger injectors. I know some guys using Key Diver Chips with SAFC and having no problems. But they are also logging to keep an eye on knock and timing.
 
The bottom line is that FUEL = HORSEPOWER.

The more available oxygen you have, the more fuel you can completely burn. The more fuel you can burn in the combustion chamber, the more power you can make.

Nitrous oxide splits into nitrogen and oxygen in the combustion chamber. The added oxygen allows you to burn more fuel.

The sulphur dioxide added to nitrous is only there to add odor to the gas, and wont react with engine oil or anything else. It goes right out the exhaust pipe.

Nitrous also wont increase blow-by any more than adding more boost would. They are both achieving the same effect, by different means.

There is a lot of stigma around nitrous oxide out there, and it is potentiated by Hollywood as well as nitrous users who haven't done their research and didn't set things up properly.

And to answer the question about flammability, nitrous isn't flammable at all. It is an oxidizer and will therefore help things burn, but in itself wont ignite. To prove a point to a few friends of mine, I held a match up to my tank and cracked the valve (they were all standing many feet away... they still wouldn't believe me). Needless to say, the only thing that happened is the nitrous extinguished the match.
 
Nitrous express all the way.

I personally own a ZEX kit. It was affordable and has functioned flawlessly, but it IS a dry kit. I have had zero problems with it on my supercharged thunderbird, but I am running a pretty small shot. With a dry kit you need to make sure your fuel pump, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator are up to the task of delivering more fuel to the combustion chamber.

With a wet kit, the injectors and pressure regulator dont matter, as the needed fuel is pulled from the fuel rail and injected with the nitrous. You should still have a better fuel pump though.

Wet kits DO have a downside, which lead me to run a dry kit. Depending on the design of the intake manifold, wet kits can 'puddle' in the manifold and cause dangerous nitrous backfires in the intake tract. This isn't as much of an issue with dry kits. With my other car, the intake design lends itself to puddling, which is why I decided to go dry. However, the manifold design of the 4g63 seems like it shouldn't have any issues.

That being said, Nitrous Express (NX) basically pioneered the wet nitrous kit, and I have never heard anything but good things about them. Realistically, as long as you go with a brand name you will be fine. All the major nitrous manufacturers make a wet kit now, including "NOS" "ZEX" and "NX". Basically the choice is up to you, based on your budget and which kit you like best.
 
Figured i would put my two cents in. Ive ran spray on a turbo motor before and whatever it calls for as far as jets to make hp will actually add more horses. The juice will cool the air off quite a bit which makes a huge difference when your turbo is pumping all that hot air in. Also the fast and furious nitrous button? Come on you have got to be kidding me. When your running nitrous at the track you can make a good ten to fifteen passes running it through every gear with a window switch and arming it in second i figure if youve got it use it. One more thing you can blow a car up with it but not because its so flammable. Most people run a bottle heater to keep the bottle pressure up and if you dont keep a eye on your bottle weather your running a pressure switch on the heater or not you can overheat the bottle and blow the bottle up from pressure.
 
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