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Normal or average 420A oil pressure is ???

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oldag98

Probationary Member
28
1
Mar 5, 2013
Choctaw, Oklahoma
I looked for the answer already, but did not find anything specific for the 420A: what is normal or average oil pressure for this engine? Mine is NON-TURBO. Can the oil pump support dual remote 1QT oil filters and an oil cooler without dropping too much oil pressure? How can I tell if my oil pressure is too low or dangerously low other than the gauge reading? The reason I ask is that I did install the remote oil filters and cooler already and the oil pressure drops to about 20psi at idle from about 45-50 at off-idle and higher rpms. This is a dramatic drop and worries me a bit. I am using 30 wt oil. :confused:
 
It DROPPED to 20psi at idle and 45-50 in rpm's? Maybe you did yourself a favor then. At idle warmed up you should be around 15-20psi (not too unusual to see 10psi on a used engine) and at rpm's of 45-50 (though some have quoted upwards of 60psi. Again warmed up).

Of course, some of the numbers that are quoted out there can be skewed by the fact that different gauges and senders read differently. One of the problems you want to be aware of.
 
I agree with bullet. That's where my oil pressure is when it is warmed up.

I am using a prosport evo gauge for my oil pressure and it's tapped at the oil filter housing with a sandwich adapter.
 
Your oil pressure should be fine. most guys that run turbo's on our cars with all the oil lines and everything run a stock oil pump. i upgraded mine just because i did it with the rebuild. if you ever do want a new oil pump get a melling. i want to do an oil gauge but i dont know if the sandwich is better or tapping into the pressure switch
 
I have an Autometer mechanical gauge and warmed up my oil pressure is usually 18-20psi. when driving with a cold engine I've seen my pressure reach about 60-70psi. My mileage is at around 200K and its tapped in with a "T-fitting" at the stock oil pressure switch. Hope this helps some.:thumb:
 
From these replies it would appear that the addition of the dual remotes and oil cooler is not having a negative impact on oil pressure. I will keep them on and monitor for a bit longer just to be sure. My gut feeling is that the engine is running hotter than I think it should, and hotter than it did before the addition of the filters and cooler, but only time will tell. This weekend I am adding adjustable cam gears and a new timing belt. Next week I am switching to Megasquirt. We shall see how all of this goes.
 
From these replies it would appear that the addition of the dual remotes and oil cooler is not having a negative impact on oil pressure. I will keep them on and monitor for a bit longer just to be sure. My gut feeling is that the engine is running hotter than I think it should, and hotter than it did before the addition of the filters and cooler, but only time will tell. This weekend I am adding adjustable cam gears and a new timing belt. Next week I am switching to Megasquirt. We shall see how all of this goes.

howellautomotive sells 160 degree thermostats online for $12 i have been running one for almost a year and it makes a big difference.
 
My gut feeling is that the engine is running hotter than I think it should, and hotter than it did before the addition of the filters and cooler, but only time will tell. .

Kind of ironic and counterintuative.

What makes your gut say that?
 
Kind of ironic and counterintuative.

What makes your gut say that?

First indication is the oil press gauge fluctuating more than before and remaining at a lower pressure at idle than before. This kinda tells me the oil might not be circulating as easily or freely as before. Second, the temp gauge is reading closer to H now than it has in the past. Third is the cloud of heat I get rolling into my face when I open the hood. This just feels hotter to me than previously. Fourth is burning my finger in 2 seconds when I touch the engine after shutdown vs before when touching the engine was no big deal after shutdown. And finally there is more metal sounds from the headers like pinging and popping when the engine is shut down than there was before. I do not have an IR thermometer, nor a gauge that indicates exact temp, just a sweep btw H and C, so I kind of have to go off of the gut feeling from the above. There has been no excessive radiator overflowing into the catch can, in fact just the opposite, a lower level of fluid in the can, when releasing the pressure cap. I also notice it takes less time for the temp needle to move towards H when the car is idling with no air flow thru the rad. This is a combination of indicators, but no real smoking gun.
 
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