No-start 1.8

[BobPell]

'90 1.8L N/T Completely stock in EXCELLENT condition. Does not start, getting fuel (new gas), spark excellent, caps replaced and ECU checked out ok, temp sensor good. I can go into more detail a bit later.
I have a few other things to do but these questions need to be answered.

Question #1
Behind the battery is a (per HAYNES Manual, 4-3) "fuel pump test terminal". Also per the manual (5-6) is an "ignition test connector". Both are plug type connectors and about 2 inches apart. The larger one has a yellow (w/red tracer) wire, the other, much smaller, has a black (w/wht. tracer) wire. The smaller of the 2 has both halves of the connector there but no wire coming out of the male part. the larger is just the female part.
Which is which???

Q#2 - Under the section for "Ignition timing check and adj." 5-5 sub sect 9, it goes thru the procedure to test timing. Sentence 1-4 discuss idle speed, #5 says "turn the engine off and connect a jumper lead between the terminal for ingition and a good ground. See illustration (which by the way is very clear and shows the larger of the 2 connectors).
This will by-pass the computer" Sentences 6-9 tell you how to connect the timing light.
Sentence 9 says "Start the engine, aim the timing light......and so on"
The actual question is then HOW THE HELL WILL THE ENGINE RUN IF THE COMPUTER IS BYPASSED?

Q #3 - In checking to see if my fuel pump was working, suppose I had connected a hot wire to the wrong connector? I may have as the the smaller of the 2 was hidden behind other wires and mostly under tape.

Q #4 - Let's assume that I did mix them up. I did it early on BEFORE I found the bad caps. They were replaced and board was checked out as OK after my possible boo boo.
What other possible damage could have been done????

Q #5 - CEL light goes off after about 5 seconds of cranking. Is this normal??

Please guys I'm running out of time on this - I bought car this for my son and I need to get it running.

edit - the black w/wht. wire produces 2200 ohms to ground the yellow w/red produces 5400 ohms to ground.

 

[TimG]

That's fairly cold weather. I know that on the 4G63 n/t, that the coolant temperature sensor (CTS) effects the car's ability to start. Make sure the harness is connected to the sensor.

Who tested out the ECU?

 

[steve]

Who tested out the ECU?

I changed the caps and cleaned up the minor corrosion, testing would be too strong a word. I made sure it powered up and all the sensors were returning valid values. Since I don't own a 1.8L I couldn't provide a in-car test like I normally would.

There is a small possibility that the ECU is a problem but with it firing the injectors and coil I along with what I was able to check I wouldn't rank the chance of it being the problem very high.

It sounds like the car is flooding.

Steve

 

[BobPell]

It sounds like the car is flooding.

Steve

I have the exact same feeling.

Thank you - B

 

[dave99gst]

did i see a new cap + rotor in there anywere ?
if not - and it say for that long it could prob use one.

 

[BobPell]

did i see a new cap + rotor in there anywere ?
if not - and it say for that long it could prob use one.

They are "like new" condition. I was hoping to take this car to FL but I must leave today.
Damn this is disappointing!!!! Oh well. I met a local guy just yesterday with a tsi. He works at a local major tire shop. He has had 3 DSMs and is certain he will get it running and will be over on the 26th.

I think I've said it but I'll say it again - THANK YOU all that tried to help with this.

B

 

[dave99gst]

if/when it ends up running please post what the problem was - !

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

I agree !!!!

I agree with Steve. When you are removing the injector connectors and it tries to start you are trying to correct for a flooding condition.

When it clears out enough, providing it doesn't flood the spark plugs, it would try to start briefly before it goes too lean and dies.

Man, this has been a toughie.

Did any of us mention the fuel pressure regulator possible having a hole in the diaphragm?


It's a thought.

Good Luck

 

[BobPell]

I agree !!!!

I agree with Steve. When you are removing the injector connectors and it tries to start you are trying to correct for a flooding condition.

When it clears out enough, providing it doesn't flood the spark plugs, it would try to start briefly before it goes too lean and dies.

Man, this has been a toughie.

Did any of us mention the fuel pressure regulator possible having a hole in the diaphragm?

It's a thought.

Good Luck

To dave99gst - believe me, when we get to the bottom of this EVERYONE will know.


Oldmitsu - exactly, the purpose of pulling the inj. wires was to stop the fuel. It tried
to start with what was remaining. Obviously it did not not last long.
Monday 12/26 someone (experienced DSMer) is going to pull T belt cover
and check fuel pressure. I tested the diaphragm and I did not detect a leak.
It help vacuum for quite a while (over 5 min. then I quit).

If Tbelt proves to be correct and pressure good I am going to hook this up to a tow rope
and pull it in 5th gear until it does start. One way or another THIS ENGINE WILL START!!!
Assuming I remember to turn the key on.

Thanks guys

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

You're a good man and very diligent. Yes, I too would love to know what you eventually find.

There's a whole bunch of us who would love to get our hands on it.

Good Luck

 

[oldman]

Holy cow, a wisemen love fest. subscribed for final result.