1G No power after 3,000 rpm

[krayola]

I have a suspicion it's my fuel pump but before I order another new pump I thought I'd ask.

93 TSI stock 6 bolt with a big 16G. Stock 450 injectors, walbro 255 pump. No tune.

I'll be driving like we do and it will Intermittently not let me go past like 3,000rpm. It acts like the fuel is being cut. If I push in the clutch it will let me go to red line. If I shut it off and start it again, it will let me go to red line again.

My pump is only a year old but it is most likely a knockoff. It's very loud. Not like a humming that I can hear if I listen. It's obnoxious. It starts off not so bad and gains volume till its almost ear piercing.

It's gotta be the pump, right?

 

[krayola]

Thank you for all that info. I finally for an hour to swap the Summit/AEM pump in. The stock was a little dirty to my surprise. I did clean it very well twice and put that pump in last year. The wires I used are very small. Like, 12g or probably 14g. I'll rewire that later. The splice is just the 2 wire connector I used. I can plug and unplug the sending unit in with it. Gas level and fuel positive.
I took the car for a drive after doing the swap. I got on it pretty good too. Nice and quiet the whole time. No cutting out. I went only about 6 miles round trip though. Well see how it does one the next few days. If I don't get any cutting out after a week of driving it I'll put up a resolved post.

 

[krayola]

The issue continues. I can't add my video for some reason.

 

[krayola]

The issue continues. I can't add my video for some reason.

 

[krayola]

Here's what I'm getting. The bad is after driving for about 15 minutes. The good is after I shut it off, went into Ace for 10 minutes. But it would most likely fix itself after being off for 3 seconds.

Bad

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Good

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[evil_eagletalon]

Any codes? Sounds like a cut.

 

[pauleyman]

I have a suspicion it's my fuel pump but before I order another new pump I thought I'd ask.

93 TSI stock 6 bolt with a big 16G. Stock 450 injectors, walbro 255 pump. No tune.

I'll be driving like we do and it will Intermittently not let me go past like 3,000rpm. It acts like the fuel is being cut. If I push in the clutch it will let me go to red line. If I shut it off and start it again, it will let me go to red line again.

My pump is only a year old but it is most likely a knockoff. It's very loud. Not like a humming that I can hear if I listen. It's obnoxious. It starts off not so bad and gains volume till its almost ear piercing.

It's gotta be the pump, right?

Pump won't fix itself shutting car on and off. Sounds more like a control issue. Do you have a datalogger?

 

[krayola]

Any codes? Sounds like a cut.

Only light on is the radiator light. Also, if I were to push the clutch I could go to red line.

 

[krayola]

Pump won't fix itself shutting car on and off. Sounds more like a control issue. Do you have a datalogger?

I do not. What about maf sensor? I have a spare in unknown condition.

 

[pauleyman]

anything is possible but I wouldn't throw parts at it if you're spending money. Go over connections, coolant temp, TPS, etc etc.
A wideband would tell you a lot here. It doesn't look like it cuts hard. Any smoke when it does this indicative of rich condition?
Do you have any diagnostic tools at all?

 

[pauleyman]

Let's backup....what maintenance have you done.
Plugs? Wires? filters? have you gone over all the grounds in the car since it sat so long?
Checked ALL and I mean ALL connector underhood for damage, corrosion etc?

 

[krayola]

anything is possible but I wouldn't throw parts at it if you're spending money. Go over connections, coolant temp, TPS, etc etc.
A wideband would tell you a lot here. It doesn't look like it cuts hard. Any smoke when it does this indicative of rich condition?
Do you have any diagnostic tools at all?

No smoke that I've noticed. I do not have any diagnostic tools. All regular maintenance is good. I have a list of everything done on this thread. Something that's been bugging me that could maybe be an issue is electrical power and belt squeal. When I turn on my headlights, heater, or anything I have power loss. I have a new alternator though. Maybe something there?
A friend suggested booking up a fuel pressure gauge so I can see if it changes while it's acting up. I'll definitely swap maf sensors since I have a spare. See if that makes a change.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Is it really only after 3k rpm or are you just seeing a problem around then? Could be more of a no power while boosting issue which could be a boost leak and your just seeing it happen at 3k rpm. If you stay off boost will it drive without stuttering? Perhaps at least try to find someone with obd1 scanner and try to read fuel trims, oxygen sensors, MAF reading

 

[dwb]

Your boost gauge is very jumpy, which might indicate an issue with your MAF. I'd definitely try another MAF and make sure the wiring is in good working order.

 

[krayola]

Is it really only after 3k rpm or are you just seeing a problem around then? Could be more of a no power while boosting issue which could be a boost leak and your just seeing it happen at 3k rpm. If you stay off boost will it drive without stuttering? Perhaps at least try to find someone with obd1 scanner and try to read fuel trims, oxygen sensors, MAF reading

Boost leak is possible, but I've checked for leaks and couldn't find any with brake cleaner.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Boost leak is possible, but I've checked for leaks and couldn't find any with brake cleaner.

That only works for the sections past that throttle body which are under vacuum. Everything else pre throttle body are not under vacuum and would never ingest the brake cleaner. Also a cut or hole in a coupler may only ever leak under pressure. You'd need some sort of pressure tester to pressurize the intake system to check for leaks. You could try unplugging the MAF and see how it runs. If compression and spark are good and not intake system leaks are present, the main effects on fueling come from MAF, TPS, and upstream 02 sensor.

 

[krayola]

That only works for the sections past that throttle body which are under vacuum. Everything else pre throttle body are not under vacuum and would never invest the brake cleaner. Also a cut or hole in a coupler may only ever leak under pressure. You'd need some sort of pressure tester to pressurize the intake system to check for leaks. You could try unplugging the MAF and see how it runs. If compression and spark are good and not intake system leaks are present, the main effects on fueling come from MAF, TPS, and upstream 02 sensor.

I'll have some time tomorrow to mess with it a little. I'll swap the maf sensor before taking it for a drive after work and see if that makes a difference. Problem is, it's an intermittent issue.

If I just get link, will that help me out with getting this car all worked out? I want it eventually so if that will help me in troubleshooting I may as well get it now and save the headache.

 

[pauleyman]

Boost leak is possible, but I've checked for leaks and couldn't find any with brake cleaner.

You need to conduct a proper boost leak test. That won't cut it.

 

[TerminalTalon]

I always warn people about bad parts and anything not OEM manufacturer is suspect. Just be warned.
It sounds like the MAF but you need to properly diagnose the issue first.