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No Injector Pw Signal For 3 & 4 Injector

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Cam285

Probationary Member
6
0
Sep 9, 2008
enfield, Connecticut
97 Eclipse Gs-t 2.0l Will Crank, Does Not Start...ecu Injector Driver Transistor Pulse Not Present On Injector 3 & 4 While Cranking To Start Engine...checked For Open & Grounds On Wires From Injector Connector (unplugged) To Ecu Connector For 3 & 4 ,none Found.voltage Reading Key On (not Cranking) +12 Vdc Resistor Pack Side On All 4 Injector. At Connector Ecu Side +12 Vdc ,pins 1,2,14,15 To Ground. The Following Parts Have Been Change Out...new Battery,new Reman-alternator,new Cam Sensor,crank Sensor,wires & Plugs.also Thought It Might Be A Bad Ecu...replace With Bone Yard Ecu...still Will Not Start..still No Pw Signal On 3 & 4.does The Ecu From Bone Yard Have To Re-flashed To Vin #???what Are The Chances That The Replace Ecu Does The Same As The First One???2 Bad Ecu??? Help This Car Been Down For 2 Weeks...
 
I have been in a similar situation last year. my qusetion first is; you have power on inj 1 and 2 but not 3 and 4, correct?
You may need to change the injector transistor (think thats what its called) its the silver box on the fire wall. This is where power comes to the box and splits for all four injectors. The ecu sends a negative pulse to each inj, this negative pulse is what makes the inj spray. Of course before you change this, back track the power lines from the inj to the silver box, it may just be a cut in the wire. good luck and keep us posted.
 
LET ME RESTATE I HAVE POWER AT THE INJECTOR CONNECTOR PIN2 ------FOR 3 & 4 ...KEY ON (NOT CRANKING)FROM THE ECU SIDE +12VDC AND +12VDC FORM THE RESISTORS BOX TO PIN 1 ON THE INJECTOR CONNECTOR.(THE SILVER BOX ON THE WALL)WHICH IS A SIMPLE CURRENT LIMITER FOR THE INJECTORS.I THINK THE POWER TRANSISTOR DRIVER THAT CONTROLS THE INJECTORS COMES FROM THE ECU.I AM NOT GETTING THE LOW TRIGGER SIGNAL TO FIRES THE INJECTORS.I KNOW THIS DUE TO THE NOID LIGHT PUT ON THE END OF THE FUEL INJECTOR CONNECTOR... 1 & 2 LIGHT UP AND 3 & 4 DO NOT....(I DO NOT HAVE A SCOPE TO PICK UP THE 2 M/S PW SIGNAL)....IS THE ECU FRIED??WHAT ABOUT 2 ECU I PUT IN,DOES IT HAVE TO BE RE-FLASHED.?????:confused:
 
I had the same thing happen to me when i first started my project 2 years ago. i went through the same thing replacing everything. so i stopped swapping and started checking wires to ignition. I ended up finding a short to one of the ecu connectors that melted some of my wires. Had to replace the harness that goes from the ecu to the engine bay. might not be the same fix but figured anything would help. i had no fire an 1 an 2.
 
This might sound stupid, but go around the injectors and the relays on the fire wall, and lightly tap them with the back of a screw driver or something not realy heavy. Other then that you might want to take the ecu cover off and look it over. See if you have anything that looks slightly burned or " Leaking " .
 
OK, THANK FOR THE INPUT GUYS....But still not starting:cry:...Disconnected the battery,pulled the ecu connectors away from the ecu...out comes the 12v lamp tester... I secured +12v to the clip end & the probe end to ground,light lit up...next I checked the ecu
connector which is disconnected from ecu...I have a light at pins,10,13,23,26,41,71,82,91...
any clues???

cam285
 
OK...After of weeks of research...and talking to many dsm :dsm:experts...the issue at hand was a loose/damage CAS SENSOR PLATE....that almost destroyed the timing belt...and a few other things... CAS sensor.Come to find out the last owner who had the water pump & timing belt replaced didn't do such a great job:notgood...one of the chances u take in buying one of the thing used...If by chance u come across this issue....change the cas & double check the plate behind the timing pulley for no play...this is a critical input sensor to the ecu...:coy:
 
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