Newly Built Motor, Problems Starting

[Batman™]

Alright. First off let me say I'm unsure if this goes here, but it seemed like the best bet.

I recently finished building my car (full mods list in my profile). I went to start it and the first time it kind of caught but leaked oil. I had to pull the motor to fix the leak as it was pretty severe. Upon getting everything reinstalled and put together perfectly, I went to start the car again. At first it was just turning over, then it started catching a bit of fire, but wouldn't stay lit.

I tracked down one problem being that I had my 1G CAS 180* inverted. Fixed that problem and was expecting the car to fire right up. Only it didn't. Still caught fire but wouldn't continue running. I consulted my handy manual, and found that the TPS should be reading 3.5 at idle and 6.5 at WOT. I pulled out the multimeter and checked the ohms on it (Ford TPS) and found that at idle it's reading 2 and at WOT it's reading 3.75. That's te max I can make it go.

I am not sure if either one of those would make the car not run. I have made all my initial settings in both DSMLink and on my MAFT, and am highly confident in the wiring I did on the car considering I do wiring for a living in the Air Force.

One interesting thing I noticed was that only the number 1 and 2 cylinders feel warm on the Exhaust Manifold. 3 and 4 stay cold, and surprisingly they're the two with the shortest runners. I did do the Magnus recommended wiring modification to the coil plug and swapped the 2 blue wires. I then hooked up the spark plug wires in normal order. The weird thing to me is that judging by the diagram, cylinders 1 and 2 each run off a separate coil.

For the record, and I don't think it makes any difference, I'm using a 6 bolt block with a 7 bolt head.

At this point I'm drawing dead, and I need to get this car on the road and tuned. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I need to get this solved and the sooner the better. Just tell me what to do or check and I'll be more than happy to.

Thanks a bunch in advance to anyone who can help or has ideas as I am really needing.

Again I apologize if this is the wrong area. It seemed most appropriate given it has to do with my motor I think.

 

[Big Woo]

First off the TPS sensor supplies a variable voltage to the ECU from .5 to .9 volts at idle, and 4.7 to 5 at WOT.

You are correct that cylinders 1&2 are on seperate coils and drivers. 1&4 are paired and 2&3 are paired. The coils fire opposite each time, in that on one cycle they fire from the electrode of the plug to the ground bar, and the next time they fire from the ground bar to the electrode and so on.

Are you by chance using a MSD DIS 4 box?

 

[Batman™]

No sir. I am using a stock ignition setup. And I was checking the ohms of the TPS. That not the right thing to do?

 

[Batman™]

Bump

 

[Big Woo]

Hmm! Prehaps we are talking about the same thing in differnt ways.

The TPS is a variable potentiometer, therefore when the throttle shaft is rotated the resistance across it changes. It is supplied with a +5 volts, so the voltage out of the TPS will vary based on the throttle's (TPS resistance) position.

I looked in the Haynes manual this morning, and I see what (I think) your trying to do. I uslly I turn the power on, check the output at idle, WOT, and then look at how it changes in relation to moving the throttle shaft.

I assume that you are doing the same type of test but with the power off, and connecting to the TPS directly. Only your measuring resistance with the power off, at the same places I look at a voltage only with the power on.

 

[Batman™]

Yes indeed. One of my friends suggested I check to make sure I have the spark plug wires in the correct order. Without getting super technical, is there anyway to insure I have them running right besides the diagram in my manual or just plain guessing?

 

[Batman™]

Would it be beneficial to try and swap plug wires 1&2 and 3&4? Would that cause my car's symptoms?