ECMlink Newbie Help

[Anthony Yacullo]

Mods: s16g, dp and exhaust. Running 12ish psi. My main concern it the knock I am getting at the last pull I had 4.6 degrees. Any input would be great thanks.




1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?
N/A
2). Verified mechanical timing?
N/A, just had timing belt replaced by mechanic
3). Verified base timing?
N/A, just had timing belt replaced by mechanic
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock Coil
Wire brand and Age: NGK 3 months
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK BRP7ES .028-.031

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1: N/A but I am the second owner and first owner did not modify anything.
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: 90% sure to all of these
Throttle Cable:
TPS:
BISS:

7). Compression ratio
8.5:1
8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
Before I had dsmlink I had Fuel Pressure Solenoid.
9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
Before link I had P1105
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): N/A
Car running: N/a

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43.7
Injector Size (cc/min): 450cc

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand:
Calibration Date:

13). Type of fuel
Type: 91
Percent of Ethanol: very low

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
Yes most of them.

 

[gofer]

I like how you filled out the above info...

Boost leak test : NA. <--- You have a turbo? Then it applies.
Compression test : NA. <--- It doesn't matter if the car's stock, you need to do a compression test.
TB Adjustments : 90% sure. <--- I'm 100% sure I'm not going to help you if you can't take the time to check your own car.
Wideband : Blank <--- If you don't have a WB how are we supposed to know your air/fuel ratio?

​

Why'd you even bother filling it out? Everything you either put "N/A" or "90% certain..."

​

 

[pauleyman]

Mechanical timing has nothing to do with base timing.

 

[GST with PSI]

Without a WBO2 (According to your log you don't have one) it's pretty difficult to give much advice. Is your fuel pump at least rewired?

 

[Anthony Yacullo]

I like how you filled out the above info...

Boost leak test : NA. <--- You have a turbo? Then it applies.
Compression test : NA. <--- It doesn't matter if the car's stock, you need to do a compression test.
TB Adjustments : 90% sure. <--- I'm 100% sure I'm not going to help you if you can't take the time to check your own car.
Wideband : Blank <--- If you don't have a WB how are we supposed to know your air/fuel ratio?

​

Why'd you even bother filling it out? Everything you either put "N/A" or "90% certain..."

​

Haha, I am sorry I think you mistaken me on some. Have a done a boost leak test yet? No I am tomorrow tho. Does a compression test play a vital role in tuning? I have adjusted my TB and I meant to say I am 90% sure I did it correctly. No wideband as of yet and I do know it pointless to tune without one. I was just curious if I could get some input.

 

[GST with PSI]

A friendly word of advice:

There are only a handful of people here who seem to really take the time and help other members with tuning. It would be wise of you to keep from burning those bridges.

All the questions Corey asked directly affect how your car performs. If they didn't, he wouldn't be asking you to answer them. For example; Yes, compression ABSOLUTELY plays a vital role in tuning. You can't tune on a motor that has $hit compression, hence a compression test being part of the tuning advice "checklist". Nobody wants to waste their time deciphering your tune if your motor is in poor health, make sense?


You want input? Here...

1. Fill out your profile with a complete mod list. Even if your car is nearly stock, nobody wants to guess what's been modified.

2. Answer all the questions on the checklist, whether you think they apply to you or not.

3. Get rid of the 4.6 degrees of knock retard by reducing boost until it goes away.

4. Don't increase boost again until you have the mods to support more boost.

5. Acquire and install a WBO2 before you start tuning.

6. Don't burn your bridges, because good help is hard to find.

 

[Anthony Yacullo]

A friendly word of advice:

There are only a handful of people here who seem to really take the time and help other members with tuning. It would be wise of you to keep from burning those bridges.

All the questions Corey asked directly affect how your car performs. If they didn't, he wouldn't be asking you to answer them. For example; Yes, compression ABSOLUTELY plays a vital role in tuning. You can't tune on a motor that has $hit compression, hence a compression test being part of the tuning advice "checklist". Nobody wants to waste their time deciphering your tune if your motor is in poor health, make sense?


You want input? Here...

1. Fill out your profile with a complete mod list. Even if your car is nearly stock, nobody wants to guess what's been modified.

2. Answer all the questions on the checklist, whether you think they apply to you or not.

3. Get rid of the 4.6 degrees of knock retard by reducing boost until it goes away.

4. Don't increase boost again until you have the mods to support more boost.

5. Acquire and install a WBO2 before you start tuning.

6. Don't burn your bridges, because good help is hard to find.

Thanks will do

 

[GST with PSI]

In addition, nothing in your log really stands out as being abnormal. Again, though, it's hard to make a real assessment without knowing your actual AFR.

I think your biggest problem is the larger turbo moving more air coupled with a lack of supporting mods. That's a sure recipe for knock.

 

[Anthony Yacullo]

In addition, nothing in your log really stands out as being abnormal. Again, though, it's hard to make a real assessment without knowing your actual AFR.

I think your biggest problem is the larger turbo moving more air coupled with a lack of supporting mods. That's a sure recipe for knock.

Thanks man, I will be putting in 190 wally next week and wideband.

 

[Calan]

I'm going to lock this, as I think everything that needs to be said has been.

OP, please start another thread with a completed checklist once you have the mechanical stuff sorted out and a WB installed.