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ECMlink new to v3 help ,

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If he has a stock front o2 then he should keep it and switch to the wideband signal going to the rear o2.

:thumb:

Unless you are running short on ECU inputs, there is no reason to not run a factory front O2 sensor. Having both it and the wideband gives you something to compare each one to.

What i did seem to notice is cylinder 4 is sounding like its arcing here and there and the idle goes weird (not all the time maybe once or twice a min)..I pulled off the spark plug wire(#4) a got a decent shock ...

Replace your wires with a new set of NGK's.

For future reference... if you think a cylinder isn't firing, you can go to the Misc tab in ECU Config and temporarily kill the injectors one at a time while the car is idling. If a cylinder isn't firing, you won't notice any difference when you kill that injector; otherwise the RPMs will drop and you will definitely feel it.
 
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Ok ,making some progress now ..Changed the plugs still had the same problem , so i changed the coil pack , Fixed , then the exhaust gasket let go (just had a new 3" exhaust done up in may , Cheap pricks didn't even change a $4 exhaust gasket LOL) Fixed that and now i can get it to go into closed loop and stay with out touching the gas ..The tps adjustment goes out of wack almost every-time i press the gas ,..Also goes out of wack every time i shut the car off and turn it back on ...
Yes i know how to adjust it also manually got it to .63 volts , the throttle is not sticking checked that already..I can sit there and do the tps adjust 100 times , it will still mess up as soon as i touch the gas

2nd weird thing is the idle ..If i adjust it bliss screw while running , shut the car off turn it on ,crazy idle comes back..Probably because of the tps problem ??
 

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:thumb:

Unless you are running short on ECU inputs, there is no reason to not run a factory front O2 sensor. Having both it and the wideband gives you something to compare each one to.



Replace your wires with a new set of NGK's.

For future reference... if you think a cylinder isn't firing, you can go to the Misc tab in ECU Config and temporarily kill the injectors one at a time while the car is idling. If a cylinder isn't firing, you won't notice any difference when you kill that injector; otherwise the RPMs will drop and you will definitely feel it.

Thats true, makes sense. Im just suggesting it if hes like alot of us and uses the wb in the o2 housing. But youre right, itd be perfect to weld a bung in another 18" further down and run the o2 from there, then cut the rear o2 and use it as the wb input. Rear o2s only function is to make sure the cat is doing its job anyway.
 
The tps adjustment goes out of wack almost every-time i press the gas ... Also goes out of wack every time i shut the car off and turn it back on ... can sit there and do the tps adjust 100 times , it will still mess up as soon as i touch the gas

You probably have dead spots or crud in the TPS. Pull it off and measure the resistance while slowly sweeping it back and forth.

2nd weird thing is the idle ..If i adjust it bliss screw while running , shut the car off turn it on ,crazy idle comes back..Probably because of the tps problem ??

How are you adjusting the BISS (not "bliss")? :)
 
You probably have dead spots or crud in the TPS. Pull it off and measure the resistance while slowly sweeping it back and



How are you adjusting the BISS (not "bliss")? :)

Lol at bliss that's my girls nickname. :thumbup: on the tps maybe its just loose that's why it never reads the same. Check your throttle cable also it might be snagging on something. If you still have cruise control ditch it and get a non cruise control cable. Its 30 bucks if you really need one i might have one i always pull it out the junkyard if i find one just in case peoplw need one
 
I am adjusting the biss while it warm and running by turning it ??
Dont have a rear 02 sensor .. Also going to be using the front 02 spot

I will pull the fuel rail (have to install the RC 750cc injectors anyway) and tps tomorrow and replace it and see how that goes
 
Log your bliss LOL i think it has to be around 30 forgot if it was with car on or not.
 
When i turn the biss the idle goes down or up depending what way i turn it ????
 
This is how i set my biss tightened it all the way then two full turns. Little by little adjust it until you see 30 on the biss on link
 
When i turn the biss the idle goes down or up depending what way i turn it ????

Then your ISC is either not working or it's at the limit of it's range.

You need to understand how the ECU controls idle. The BISS screw isn't an idle adjustment; it's used to adjust the amount of air entering the IM so that the ISC is in it's center of travel. This gives the ECU the widest range of adjustment to control idle.

The ECU uses timing changes for rapid corrections to idle RPM, and modulates the ISC at the same time to control the amount of air bypassing the throttle plate. If too much air is entering via the BISS or a leak, then the ISC reaches the end of it's travel and the ECU can't compensate for the extra air.

There is a specific procedure to set the BISS; but you have Link so it's easy. After the throttle cable and idle switch are properly adjusted and there are no vac leaks, you need to watch ISCPosition and adjust the BISS until it reads somewhere around 32-36 while idling at your target idle.
 
Lol if the isc driver are blown WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF Atm that is not somthing i want to hear...What do i turn the multimeter to , to test the isc
 
Lol if the isc driver are blown WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF Atm that is not somthing i want to hear...What do i turn the multimeter to , to test the isc

You are testing resistance. It's on the vfaq.
 
just went and pulled my isc in dead dark had to pull my strut bar , batt and isc LOL ....Here is what i got 1,2=030 2,3=041 4,5=030 5,6=030
 
One coil is a bit high, but I'm not sure it's high enough to cause a problem (maybe, maybe not). Are you sure the connection was good, and there aren't any broken wires in the harness?

Do what I mentioned in the last paragraph of post #62 and see if you can get the ISCPosition to move.

You can also check continuity between the connector at the ECU and the connector at the ISC.
 
Lol if the isc driver are blown WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF Atm that is not somthing i want to hear...What do i turn the multimeter to , to test the isc

Well no one said dsms are cheap





just went and pulled my isc in dead dark had to pull my strut bar , batt and isc LOL ....Here is what i got 1,2=030 2,3=041 4,5=030 5,6=030

That can cause problems. Is not that expensive 30 bucks at most
 
I believe those values are within range.

Has it been 100% verified there are no boost/vacuum leaks?
 
Would exhaust leaks also cause an issue with adjustments? I had my ISC set to 30, but after fixing some potential boost leaks, everything got out of wack and now I'm struggling to get it set again. But then I found I have an exhaust leak where the wastegate bolts to the manifold.
 
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