ECMlink new to v3 help ,

[LOLVTEC]

I can't see your log since I'm on my phone. But do a tps adjust to correct your 1+ tps. Also make sure on your maf tab you have it set on stock 1g maf. ill pm you my number and walk you through it. You might have to mess with your dead time.

edit got on my pc.

okay first off since you're running a maft your maf comp slider is wrong. you need to put it as stock because you don't have a direct wire from your gm maf to the pigtail, you have it running off the maft.
you have a dtc most likely because you have your maf settings wrong, clear that.
and why is your target idle so high are you running 272's?

1st change your maf comp slider to stock
2nd clear your dtc
3rd put your target idle back to 750 or 800 (if you do go for 800 adjust the offset)
4th do another tps adjust
5th should your car turn on and idle what is your afr. should be 14.7 but since your doing NBS it will fluctuate from 14.4 to 14.9 aim for closed loop operation
6th let it idle for a bit (warm up to 180) do a combinded ft and click use template, smooth it out.
just do a log all i'll fix it for you.

 

[toppertopper]

I can't see your log since I'm on my phone. But do a tps adjust to correct your 1+ tps. Also make sure on your maf tab you have it set on stock 1g maf. ill pm you my number and walk you through it. You might have to mess with your dead time.

okay first off since you're running a maft your maf comp slider is wrong. you need to put it as stock because you don't have a direct wire from your gm maf to the pigtail, you have it running off the maft.
you have a dtc most likely because you have your maf settings wrong, clear that.
and why is your target idle so high are you running 272's?

1st if i don't have the maf comp sliders like that the car won't idel or stay running even with my foot on the gas
2nd maf settings are at zero except the nob not in line is set for 450 cc injectors with 2 extra to richin it up (2 = 450 cc but i have it at 4 (also with out it this way it will not idel or run)

 

[LOLVTEC]

You ask for help and you don't do it. Never mind that's why your car doesn't want to run because your maf isn't dialed in correctly with link. your maft is basically a host so link can recognize it. You don't have to richen anything because you can do that with link. That's why you have your maf sliders.

dial in everything first like i said so we can fix every thing else your air flow per rev is way to high. But that might be fixed once you can get your wb to cycle from .20 to .80 for closed loop operation. Then you can do a combined ft and smooth it out. One you have your idle dialed in you have to log a cruise for about 20 mins, try to experience different types of roads such as hills, and what not. Once you have that log, do a combined ft and smooth it out. That should get you going. Once you're familiar with that you can tune at Wot but you need to understand the basics of afrs, timing, and fuel


zero out everything on the maft. Except for your injectors (im not totally sure with that haven't had a maft in awhile) everything needs to be tuned by link now your maft is useless except for the fact that you need it for link to recognize it as a stock maf.

 

[toppertopper]

I can't see your log since I'm on my phone. But do a tps adjust to correct your 1+ tps. Also make sure on your maf tab you have it set on stock 1g maf. ill pm you my number and walk you through it. You might have to mess with your dead time.

edit got on my pc.

okay first off since you're running a maft your maf comp slider is wrong. you need to put it as stock because you don't have a direct wire from your gm maf to the pigtail, you have it running off the maft.
you have a dtc most likely because you have your maf settings wrong, clear that.
and why is your target idle so high are you running 272's?

1st change your maf comp slider to stock
2nd clear your dtc
3rd put your target idle back to 750 or 800 (if you do go for 800 adjust the offset)
4th do another tps adjust
5th should your car turn on and idle what is your afr. should be 14.7 but since your doing NBS it will fluctuate from 14.4 to 14.9 aim for closed loop operation
6th let it idle for a bit (warm up to 180) do a combinded ft and click use template, smooth it out.
just do a log all i'll fix it for you.

I didn't see your steps , and i do want help ...But if you check my logs ..I can't do combine ft ...I think its stuck in open loop ..Tomorrow i will reinstall the 02 and do all those steps and see what happens ..My lc1 isn't logging right or is hooked up wrong lots of things to check try and fix ...

When i zero out the maf-t except for the injector size ,..The car will start then die no matter what , unless i do the tps and the maf comp slider adjustments (I think because it is stuck in open loop because of a non functioning wb )

 

[Calan]

Just so we are all on the same sheet of music here, "Zero the MAF-T" means setting the Base knob for the stock injectors (position 2), and everything else at zero. You also need to check that the switches are set for your MAF size, and lock the intake temp and baro signal in Link on the ECU inputs tab.

This is an old page based on Link V2, but the info is still accurate for the most part.

...I think its stuck in open loop ..Tomorrow i will reinstall the 02 and do all those steps and see what happens

No doubt about it, and a good plan.

 

[LOLVTEC]

You can't do combined ft cause your not getting proper reading from your maf. Also check if your wb didn't take a dump. Remove the senor and grab a lighter, have someone in your car so they can see the gauge. Now with that lighter press the button i guess that's what it's called, no flame just so that the gas comes out. Your wb should go rich keep it like that for at least 20 seconds it should stay rich if it leans out with you still have the lighter on the sensor then your sensor is done for.

 

[Calan]

You can't do combined ft cause your not getting proper reading from your maf.

He can't use CombinedFT because he is locked in open loop due to a missing O2 signal, which is caused by NBS and ...

Also check if your wb didn't take a dump.

That's been established. It appears to be reading inaccurately on his gauge, and it's flat-lined in Link. Based on his comments in post #20, I'm betting his sensor is dead.

 

[toppertopper]

could my wide band problem be this ,because i haven't done this yet
(*Must reprogram Analog Out 1 values to match Analog Out 2 values using LM Config 3.15. Screenshots and software - innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki])

.Do i have to cut the 02 wire and wire the wideband wire to it , or strip it and solder it to the o2 wire (thats what i did)

 

[LOLVTEC]

Cut it, the existing wire from the engine bay is no longer used your wb will replace it.

 

[Calan]

Do i have to cut the 02 wire and wire the wideband wire to it , or strip it and solder it to the o2 wire (thats what i did)

Cut it, the existing wire from the engine bay is no longer used your wb will replace it.

I suggest you slow down and think about this for a minute.

Remember post #25? If you run out and start cutting more wires, it's going to be pretty hard to toss a factory O2 sensor back on the car and get anything better than you have now.

There are three ways to get a front O2 signal (NB) for the ECU to use in closed loop:

1). Use a factory NB sensor plugged into the front O2 pin on the ECU.

2). Use a simulated NB output (0-1v) from a wideband, plugged into the front O2 pin on the ECU.

3). Use a wideband output (0-5v) from a wideband, plugged into an unused input on the ECU, and let ECMLink simulate it's own NB signal from that.

If you are going to put a stock O2 sensor back in to get closed-loop dialed in (which I suggest), then don't hack up the wiring more than you already have. Leave the factory front O2 pin for the stock sensor, and plug your wideband into a different input. Then you can have both the stock sensor and a wideband to compare to each other, and can use simulated NB in Link without losing the factory O2 sensor if you want to switch back to it.

Regardless, there is no real reason to use the simulated output of the wideband, since it's easier to have one wire going to Link, and let it handle the simulation. Besides that, if your wideband sensor is shot the simulated NB signal from your unit is going to be as useless as the 0-5v signal is.

 

[toppertopper]

Put in the stock 02 sensor and ....
Ok after messing with it for about an hour , i finally got it to idle , with the maf comp sliders at zero ( it idled like crap) i can't do the auto maf comp adjust because it still looks like its stuck in open loop?? I then played with the maf comp sliders just to see and it idled good i took it for a quick drive around the block ...When i came back it was stuck on high idle ,tried to adjust the bliss no luck ...Turned the car off started and the rough idle was back ,zero'd the maf comp sliders still the same ???

 

[LOLVTEC]

Okay let's start fresh here.

rpm/tps you have it at 800 and your coasting offset is 190 <--- How in the world did you get that value. should be 40 or 60 give or take.
do another tps adjust because your values for tps offset and tps scale are way off thats why you have 1%on tps when i know your not stepping on the pedal.

Maf Comp
mess with the values In(hz)
0 try adding 20.3
50 14.8
100 10.2

the first two values are usually on idle.
put your wideband back so you know your afr's
when i first got link i watched the wiki videos and figured it all out.
just mess with the first two values either positive or negative. until you see your afrs near 14.7


actually read this, not just skim through it.
installnewsensor [ECMTuning - wiki]
then this
v3mafadjcombft [ECMTuning - wiki]
look into openthreshold
for your tps adjust because i think you don't know how to do it
dsmlinktpsadjustment [ECMTuning - wiki]
read up on afr's so you know understand it
quickieafsetup [ECMTuning - wiki]

watch these tutorials
http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/fueltrim.html
http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/basictune.html

im not trying to be an ass, but understand these few basic steps will help a lot in what function does what.

good luck

 

[toppertopper]

Thanks i will try that in the morning , the coasting offset i did not touch .I bought it off a member on here so it may still have all his adjustments saved , i think ?

 

[LOLVTEC]

Okay restart link to factory settings.

 

[Calan]

rpm/tps you have it at 800 and your coasting offset is 190 <--- How in the world did you get that value. should be 40 or 60 give or take.
do another tps adjust because your values for tps offset and tps scale are way off thats why you have 1%on tps when i know your not stepping on the pedal.

Since the idle switch is working and the ECU know's it is idling, his TPS is close enough (for now), and it along with FC offset aren't causing any issues. If anything, it will just affect the way the car drops into idle when letting off the gas...but since the car isn't idling correctly while sitting still, that is a bit irrelevant.

*****

OP - How are you adjusting the BISS?

You will need to have the first couple of sliders at something like +20% to +30%, due to your MAF configuration. Running them "zeroed" when you know you need that correction may not let the car start.

And...yes, you are still stuck in open-loop; there is no signal coming from your front O2 sensor. You need to figure that out before worrying about anything else. Display the Front O2 and OpenLoop items in the log and you can see it for yourself.

You also have something going on with the timing; it is switching between a hard 19.1* and 5.0*, rather than adjusting smoothly. Have you checked all of your wiring for any broken wires or connectors? You seem to have multiple mechanical issues here.

 

[toppertopper]

played with the maf comp sliders its idling and running ..Took it for a little drive around the block ,cel light came on on a pull ..dtc shows 2 codes 0014 throttle position circuit malfunction and 0041 injector circuit malfunction

What do i do next , toss in the 750cc injectors before i go farther? ...Also need to fix the widband wiring (sensor is good ,had to test it on another lc1 in a civic) None of the numbers changed when i tryed to test on mine

 

[Calan]

You haven't done any airflow calibration other than some basic adjustments to get it to idle...and you are doing pulls?

The good news is that you have a functioning O2 signal now (what was it?), and are going into closed loop. Figure out what is causing your DTC's, and then start working on getting fuel trims dialed in during idle and cruise.

 

[LOLVTEC]

Check your tps wiring,
Your injector.circuit malfunction could be caused by brittle injector clips go to a junk yard any ford clips will work, if its not that your resistor pack might have gone bad.

 

[toppertopper]

You haven't done any airflow calibration other than some basic adjustments to get it to idle...and you are doing pulls?

The good news is that you have a functioning O2 signal now (what was it?), and are going into closed loop. Figure out what is causing your DTC's, and then start working on getting fuel trims dialed in during idle and cruise.

I got excited been waiting to drive it for close to a month or 2 now (had to wait for all the parts) won't be untill you guy said go for a cruise
02 signal not sure once i played with the maf comp slider it went into closed loop ..When i zero them it goes back into open loop

Resistor box is the silver box on the fire wall? ..Going out to check all the wiring right now will report back
Thanks again everyone

Edit , went out to start it to see if the codes were still there ...And it would start and die again , so i went and grabbed the comp .I did not touch anything since it was running good , if i gave it gas it would stay running..Then after a bit it ran by its self with out changing any thing...It was stuck in open loop again wtf (log start with gas then runs on its own)

 

[Calan]

You still have the same mechanical issues.

1. Your O2 sensor still isn't functioning properly.
2. Your timing is locked at 19.1*, other than brief moments when it drops to default base timing of 5*.

Since the ECU uses the CAS to control both the injectors and timing, and since you have an injector DTC and erratic timing...I would check the CAS and wiring.

 

[toppertopper]

Ok today i ripped apart almost all the wiring ,Swaped out the cas ,checked the injector pulse..checked to see if the o2 plug had power ..It was all good . At cold start it won't idel but if i keep my foot on the gas till it warms up it will idel but rough...Going to adjust the bliss proper tomorrow

What i did seem to notice is cylinder 4 is sounding like its arcing here and there and the idle goes weird (not all the time maybe once or twice a min)..I pulled off the spark plug wire(#4) a got a decent shock ..Put it back in pulled cylinder 1,2,3 (one at a time) and they click like crazy when one of them is out...But when 4 is out it they don't click just shocks me like crazy ......Could this be causing all my problems ??...

 

[LOLVTEC]

Swap out the wires and see if cylinder 4 Is still not firing

 

[toppertopper]

Swap out the wires and see if cylinder 4 Is still not firing

Will be doing that and testing all the wires , and coil pack just for extra piece of mind

 

[boost97gst]

could my wide band problem be this ,because i haven't done this yet
(*Must reprogram Analog Out 1 values to match Analog Out 2 values using LM Config 3.15. Screenshots and software - innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki])

.Do i have to cut the 02 wire and wire the wideband wire to it , or strip it and solder it to the o2 wire (thats what i did)

Ok, ive only read the last 15 posts or so but this stuck out like a sore thumb.
LMconfig is absolutely necessary.
What i did was program them both for 0-5v output(exactly the same) and ran the brown wire to the fronto2 ecu wire. Like you i simple tapped into the wire without cutting it. BUUUUUT, to do this you must disconnect the stock narrowband from the harness. Otherwise you have 2 conflicting voltages and its a good way to burn something up basically.
Then, if you do it this way, you will let link sim NB internally. Works like a champ

Also look up the lc1 calibration procedure. Its a MUST.

 

[LiquidX]

If he has a stock front o2 then he should keep it and switch to the wideband signal going to the rear o2.