New Member, Doing a rebuild

[Macurts]

Hey guys new to the DSM tuning world and just wanna say whatsup first of all. I'm doin a rebuild on my motor because of the common problem of "crankwalk". I found a rebuild kit for the motor for a little less than 1200 at RPMMachine.com. Seems reasonable havn't really heard bad things about them after doing some research. Lookin to make a solid motor that can withstand some boost cause i'll eventually be working with a bigger turbo of course. I guess they put a custom kit cause i request some forged rods and pistons and this is what they gave me...

> KIT INCLUDES
> SCAT 4340 FORGED H-BEAM CONNECTING RODS
> PROBE DISH FORGED PISTONS
> PROBE PISTON RINGS
> ROCK FULL GASKET SET
> ROCK BEARINGS
> ROCK OIL PUMP
> ROCK TIMING BELT
> ROCK FREEZE PLUGS

I already got a machine shop workin on the motor, deckin the block and all that good stuff, the crankshafts are goin to be machined as well in the meantime till i can buy some forged ones. Just wondering what you guys think on the deal and project all in general. I know im gonna be gettin some camgears as well but still shoppin. What do you guys think? I'm not new to the tuner scene but i am new to the DSM scene. Any advice would be nice

 

[BogusSVO]

what head gasket? composite? or an MLS? the surface finish is more important for an mls.
are you going with ARP head studs? DO NOT LET THE SHOP BELT SURFACE/SAND your head!!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html
have the valve springs tested...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html
and why I said to have springs tested...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

 

[spydreclips6]

Welcome to the DSM community! Good luck with the 7 bolt rebuild! I would of just bought a 6 bolt instead of rebuilding the 7 bolt though.

 

[LiquidX]

Who exactly is "Rock" or "Probe"??? I will say that with the timing belt components and the oil pump, you should deffinatly go OEM unless you want to have potential problems. The bearings, what material are they made of? Are they OEM equivalent at least? The gaskets I would go with Felpro at least if not OEM. You can't skimp on builds and what is it that's making it $1200? When you said the crank is getting machined, I hope you just mean micropolished. Myself and others agree that you should NOT machine a crank. Others have had success, but it's not something I will ever do again.

If you had crankwalk, you best be getting your oil journals cleared out and a NEW crank. Quite frankly, I would only reuse a walked block if I had to.

 

[richard33]

even with the built motor you're still going to have the same crankwalk problems. You should switch to a 6 bolt like stated. If you keep the 7 bolt, look for an evo 8 crank to solve the crankwalk problems.

 

[BIGBLAZE79]

I had my crank machined on the rod and main journals. I then had it re-nitride coated and then micro polished. I haven't had any issues with it, About 20K miles so far. My crank didn't walk though; I spun a #2 rod bearing. I would make sure they align hone the main caps on the block.

 

[LiquidX]

After looking through the website, I finally found the link to the rebuild kit in question.
Eagle Master Engine Rebuild Kits from RPM Machine (They charge less for Mitsubish parts WTF)
I had to laugh when they are charging $152 for the hydraulic tensioner ROLFROLF. You need more than than. Check with the vendors, I know that STM sells a FULL OEM KIT for just under 300 (that includes the tensioner, belt pulleys, and belt). Unless your lifters and rockers are bad, you don't need them and would go through PartsDinosaur, Phoenix, Arizona, wholesale engine parts and kits first. Did you bend valves? If not, you don't need them either.

Just buy reputable parts (if not OEM) and don't cut corners on this.


As for the crank from above, yes, you did the right procedure on the crank getting it re-nitrided. From what I heard, machine shops will not (choose not to) re-nitride because they claim there is still enough after the machining. A crank with a spun bearing is also different than a walked crank. A lot of people that rebuild a walked motor will have symptoms again wether is 10 miles later or 5000 miles.

 

[Smallfry311]

I would get an all metal head gasket too.. The ones that come in the kits are usually not that great

 

[biker_joe89]

yes you don't want to skimp on the rebuild thats a fact. Remember that the engine if the base in which you build around. Spend a little extra time shopping around there is always good deals you just have to find them.

 

[Macurts]

Who exactly is "Rock" or "Probe"??? I will say that with the timing belt components and the oil pump, you should deffinatly go OEM unless you want to have potential problems. The bearings, what material are they made of? Are they OEM equivalent at least? The gaskets I would go with Felpro at least if not OEM. You can't skimp on builds and what is it that's making it $1200? When you said the crank is getting machined, I hope you just mean micropolished. Myself and others agree that you should NOT machine a crank. Others have had success, but it's not something I will ever do again.

If you had crankwalk, you best be getting your oil journals cleared out and a NEW crank. Quite frankly, I would only reuse a walked block if I had to.

rock and probe usually work on domestic cars and engines, since its a Crysler motor i figured it wouldn't be a bad choice...yes i asked the guy and he said the meet or exceed oem standards as well, im on a budget and need the car running cause its pretty inconveniant, but i also want a strong motor, the guy put this custom kit together for me cause he knew what i was tryin to do, eventually more boost would be involved, when i talked to em he seemed to know what he was talkin about. The crank would be temporary until i get some more cash to change it out....

yes you don't want to skimp on the rebuild thats a fact. Remember that the engine if the base in which you build around. Spend a little extra time shopping around there is always good deals you just have to find them.

Been for a couple months now and this seems the best deal i could find, seems promising

even with the built motor you're still going to have the same crankwalk problems. You should switch to a 6 bolt like stated. If you keep the 7 bolt, look for an evo 8 crank to solve the crankwalk problems.

So lookin into a differant crank like an evo 8 would solve the crankwalk problem?? or just prevent it from eventually happening?? man 7 bolt motors just sound like shit....is there a resolution to the crankwalk problem and would it solve it?

 

[LiquidX]

rock and probe usually work on domestic cars and engines, since its a Crysler motor i figured it wouldn't be a bad choice...yes i asked the guy and he said the meet or exceed oem standards as well, im on a budget and need the car running cause its pretty inconveniant, but i also want a strong motor, the guy put this custom kit together for me cause he knew what i was tryin to do, eventually more boost would be involved, when i talked to em he seemed to know what he was talkin about. The crank would be temporary until i get some more cash to change it out....



Been for a couple months now and this seems the best deal i could find, seems promising

The motor is actually Mitsubishi unless you are running the 420a which you are not. I honestly don't think he knows anything about our cars as I stated earlier, he has the same kit for the Eagle and Eclipse but charges more for the Eagle kit and they are the same exact thing.

Did you check with Parts Dinosaur or even search for a Topline rebuild kit? I strongly urge you to use OEM ONLY with the timing belt kit and oil pump. Again, I think you should find a new block and crank if you walked. You can also check with karking and Mitsubishi Graveyard for parts (the Graveyard is a supporting vendor as well). You should really search on here to find what is best to use for a budget build and what others opionions are on parts.

 

[Macurts]

The motor is actually Mitsubishi unless you are running the 420a which you are not. I honestly don't think he knows anything about our cars as I stated earlier, he has the same kit for the Eagle and Eclipse but charges more for the Eagle kit and they are the same exact thing.

Did you check with Parts Dinosaur or even search for a Topline rebuild kit? I strongly urge you to use OEM ONLY with the timing belt kit and oil pump. Again, I think you should find a new block and crank if you walked. You can also check with carking.com and Mitsubishi Graveyard for parts (the Graveyard is a supporting vendor as well). You should really search on here to find what is best to use for a budget build and what others opionions are on parts.

Will do, will look into it....man a new head?? ouch....should i just put a 1g head on?? Waiting is the better way to look into it.......man......im lost......well again imma look into it and see whats the deal with all that stuff

 

[LiquidX]

Will do, will look into it....man a new head?? ouch....should i just put a 1g head on?? Waiting is the better way to look into it.......man......im lost......well again imma look into it and see whats the deal with all that stuff

Where did the new head idea come from? A 1g head will only fit on a 2g block if you drill and tap new head studs then there are other things that need to be done. Not worth it, however, a 1g block (6 bolt to be exact) and 2g head is a great combination. You could just to the whole 6 bolt swap all together. You already sent your block out which you should have researched more on here first and taken that time to source out a 6 bolt and the required parts to swap it over. Take your time finding your rebuild parts as you want quality peices for our force induction motors.

I fixed the link above, but it's www.karking.com

 

[Macurts]

well i still have the motor, how much would a 1g motor cost and rebuild?? I didnt really know the differance from a 6 bolt and a 7 bolt till now so....i don't really have a thousands of dollars to throw around and need the car running. One of the guys said it would be ok to throw in a strong crank or a evo 8 crank to solve the crankwalk issue, but because of the head.......even a rebuild won't help it?? It just seems 7 bolts are hopeless hunks of $hits?

 

[richard33]

My 95 GST just crankwalked recently and I am building a 6bolt block but keeping my 2g head. If you want to keep the 7 bolt, you should put a evo8 crank in it to solve the crankwalk issues. From what I know, there is nothing you can do to prevent crankwalk with a stock motor/crank. There may be things to lower the chances, but it could still happen.

 

[LiquidX]

My 95 GST just crankwalked recently and I am building a 6bolt block but keeping my 2g head. If you want to keep the 7 bolt, you should put a evo8 crank in it to solve the crankwalk issues. From what I know, there is nothing you can do to prevent crankwalk with a stock motor/crank. There may be things to lower the chances, but it could still happen.

Do you know how many "remedies" there are? No one knows for sure is the correct answer which even you stated. There are alignment dowels, new cranks, full rebuild, journal boring, lighter clutch etc. and they usually all go back to walking for some reason. Hence the reason to just get a new block and start over.

OP, if you scrounge the classifieds you can find blocks and such on there. I picked up a 6 bolt block and a crank for it for $100. They both got machined (bored and micropolished) but it's doable to not spend thousands. If you feel you can find some good pricing on doing a 6 bolt swap, here is the information you'll need.

6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse