New Headgasket + Cams - What all else should I get?

[Clinical]

So found out that my headgasket is toast.

I originally intended this next winter to build my head with a port/polish, cams, valves, springs&retainers, 3g lifters, etc.

However now since I'll be removing the head I want to get a couple things done.
All I can probably afford to do at this point is my cams/springs&retainers.

My main question is though - is there a checklist somewhere for everything I should do with a headgasket job.

I know this much: Headgasket/Valvecover gasket/ cam seals / valve stem seals/intake manifold gasket/ exhaust manifold gasket/timing belt.
I've never done a headgasket job, let alone pull my head before so this is all new to me.

Also, my car currently has an MLS headgasket on it - will I need to take the head to be resurfaced for a new MLS?

Thanks for any help in advance!

 

[fwdmaster]

Some other parts you should get are, new timing pulleys etc and a new waterpump.I recommend getting the head resurfaced and using a composite head gasket with arp studs,better sealing and you don't have to resurface the block

 

[Clinical]

I'd do all my timing stuff if I didn't know for sure that it was still all pretty new. Only like 8k on it all.

But either way I'll be getting a new belt since my belt has been getting oil on it from my cam seals leaking. I have all ARP hardware already. However I'm still a bit unfamiliar with the non-oem style headgaskets. Are the composite/MLS the same?

I'll definitely probably have the head resurfaced.

Thanks for the advice - this is the stuff I'm looking for

Any other helpful suggestions/ideas would be much appreciated!

 

[pj91gsx]

Fwdmaster said it all, but it would be nice to add new valve seals.

 

[Guzman08]

get the head ported a bid as well

 

[92AWDHX40]

What are your goals and hp.

 

[fwdmaster]

I'd do all my timing stuff if I didn't know for sure that it was still all pretty new. Only like 8k on it all.

But either way I'll be getting a new belt since my belt has been getting oil on it from my cam seals leaking. I have all ARP hardware already. However I'm still a bit unfamiliar with the non-oem style headgaskets. Are the composite/MLS the same?

I'll definitely probably have the head resurfaced.

Thanks for the advice - this is the stuff I'm looking for

Any other helpful suggestions/ideas would be much appreciated!

The composite head gaskets and MLS gaskets are different one is made from composite materials which gives a better seal if the block or head has imperfections,while a MLS is made with multiple layers of steel,our dsms came stock with a composite head gasket & there oem also.

 

[Clinical]

What are your goals and hp.

My end goals are around 450whp - but that wont be till after next winter as I'll be doing that with a new turbo and a professional E85 tune.

Right now its just me tuning on 93.

I'll probably shoot for 350whp after this.

I'd say right now from my butt dyno and looking at cars with similar builds and quarter mile times - that I'm around 300-320whp as I sit, so I'm probably not too far off.

Although I'm more doing the headwork I'm doing now to prepare for whats coming this winter than trying to accomplish any big goals this summer yet.

Already hit my goal this summer, had been mid/high 13's and goal was to run 12's. So now I'm happy with what I've got but am preparing for the winter build.

Valve seals are a definite because I think mine are bad anyway.


My old headgasket was an MLS - should I just resurface the head and use another MLS then? Or should I go ahead and run a composite

 

[viprez586]

Do it right, do it once. Get the block and head resurfaced.

You said you have 8k on the current setup and the MLS HG blew? Something wasn't done right.

I'm feeling generous. Here are some links to look at.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341289-how-surface-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/286487-how-prime-oil-pump-timing-components-already-installed.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341625-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod-2-a.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/368554-removing-head-components-1g-2g.html

 

[Clinical]

Do it right, do it once. Get the block and head resurfaced.

You said you have 8k on the current setup and the MLS HG blew? Something wasn't done right.

I'm feeling generous. Here are some links to look at.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341289-how-surface-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/286487-how-prime-oil-pump-timing-components-already-installed.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341625-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod-2-a.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/368554-removing-head-components-1g-2g.html

Yes, I believe either the head wasnt torqued down correctly or else something with the way it was babied for the first 3,000 miles and rarely ever hit boost by the previous owner then to me who has started to turn it into more of a "street/strip car" than a DD - raising the boost and timing a lot and beating the crap out of it had something to do with it.

Either way I intend to get it all done right this time.

 

[pj91gsx]

Yes, I believe either the head wasnt torqued down correctly or else something with the way it was babied for the first 3,000 miles and rarely ever hit boost by the previous owner then to me who has started to turn it into more of a "street/strip car" than a DD - raising the boost and timing a lot and beating the crap out of it had something to do with it.

Either way I intend to get it all done right this time.

I had one car where i torqued the head down incorrectly and it blew the cometic headgasket and i had the block and head shaved. torque from in to out in a 3 or 5 step sequence.

 

[viprez586]

I have a MLS headgasket. Block and head were decked properly. Snugged all head studs by hand. Tightened to 30ftlbs in to out, then 60, finally 80. I used the ARP lube - what your final torque is can be argued all day long.
No problems approximately 7k later.

As for engine break-in. I don't believe much in "babying" a new engine really. Granted you shouldn't go beat the snot out of it.
Here's my process.

1. Initial start up - keep revs varied until operating temp. Don't just let it sit and idle. (I also drenched my pistons in oil to give a nice thin start-up film)
2. Operating temp - check. No leaks - check.
3. Take it out for a spin close to where your working on it, This was perfect since I was in an industrial park on a Sunday.
4. Keep boost LOW I never went over 5psi during the first 10 minutes.
5. Do low boost 1/4 throttle pulls up to 4.5k mainly 2nd or 3rd gear. Engine brake but do not lug the engine after each "pull".
6. Repeat 5-10 times at 1/4 throttle, then do 1/2 throttle repeat 5-10 times at 1/2 throttle.
7. 3/4 throttle 5-10 times keeping boost below 10psi.
8. After these pulls I went WOT 2nd gear to 4k with boost at approximately 15psi. I did this maybe two or three times.
9. Return to shop and let cool down and check everything over, once cooled down repeat process if you feel necessary.
10. For the next 1000 miles drive normal, if WOT only go short bursts, vary RPM often, stay away from cruising or lugging engine.

If you have new/reconditioned cams, or new bearings I recommend draining the oil after the first process. It will look like metallic paint draining out.
Otherwise 500-1000 miles will be fine if your reusing cams/bearings.

Like i said, this is my opinion/method I had no problems and the entire engine break-in process can be argued all day long.
Some recommend no boost. Some say drive it like you stole it, some say baby it.
One thing I can tell you - some blow-by during the first 5-10 minutes is normal - after that something is wrong. Ask me how I know.

 

[Clinical]

I have a MLS headgasket. Block and head were decked properly. Snugged all head studs by hand. Tightened to 30ftlbs in to out, then 60, finally 80. I used the ARP lube - what your final torque is can be argued all day long.
No problems approximately 7k later.

As for engine break-in. I don't believe much in "babying" a new engine really. Granted you shouldn't go beat the snot out of it.
Here's my process.

1. Initial start up - keep revs varied until operating temp. Don't just let it sit and idle. (I also drenched my pistons in oil to give a nice thin start-up film)
2. Operating temp - check. No leaks - check.
3. Take it out for a spin close to where your working on it, This was perfect since I was in an industrial park on a Sunday.
4. Keep boost LOW I never went over 5psi during the first 10 minutes.
5. Do low boost 1/4 throttle pulls up to 4.5k mainly 2nd or 3rd gear. Engine brake but do not lug the engine after each "pull".
6. Repeat 5-10 times at 1/4 throttle, then do 1/2 throttle repeat 5-10 times at 1/2 throttle.
7. 3/4 throttle 5-10 times keeping boost below 10psi.
8. After these pulls I went WOT 2nd gear to 4k with boost at approximately 15psi. I did this maybe two or three times.
9. Return to shop and let cool down and check everything over, once cooled down repeat process if you feel necessary.
10. For the next 1000 miles drive normal, if WOT only go short bursts, vary RPM often, stay away from cruising or lugging engine.

If you have new/reconditioned cams, or new bearings I recommend draining the oil after the first process. It will look like metallic paint draining out.
Otherwise 500-1000 miles will be fine if your reusing cams/bearings.

Like i said, this is my opinion/method I had no problems and the entire engine break-in process can be argued all day long.
Some recommend no boost. Some say drive it like you stole it, some say baby it.
One thing I can tell you - some blow-by during the first 5-10 minutes is normal - after that something is wrong. Ask me how I know.

You pretty much summed up my idea of a break in. Not going insane but giving it a good few runs to make sure everything seats well.

Thing is my motor won't be out of my car so I won't be having it decked or anything. I will have my head resurfaced.

I'm thinking about running the OEM Mitsubishi Evo8/9 4layer head gasket.
It's $120 but supposed to be one of the best values out there.

+ I'll be running much higher boost next winter more than likely so I'd like all the protection I can get.

 

[viprez586]

Hmm, well just be careful cleaning the block deck. Don't use abrasives like a roloc disc or anything like that.
Get or borrow a precision straight edge and measure warp on the block.
Definitely do the head oil port mod #1 before you send it to get machined - just incase there is any "burrs" hanging off the edge.
Balance shafts removed? #1 and #2 porting will help - i wish i did it. I don't want to peel anything apart unless I have to though.

Haven't heard much about using the EVO8/9 HG. I just used the 6bolt OEM MLS HG. Only thing I could imagine that makes the EVO HG any better is thickness. Believe they're similar in price anyway.