New engine problems

[TalonTsi_291]

Engine has about 60 miles on it. Ross pistons .020 over. Rings gapped to spec. Block was bored and honed by reputable shop. Head was fully checked, valves reground, and decked. Im not sure if the valve seals were replaced. Turbo was just completely rebuilt by precision and has maybe 5 miles on it. Im running 10w30 conventinal oil. The car starts and idles fine. No smoke. I can drive it and not boost it, no smoke. Once I try boosting it, it starts smoking and then keeps smoking even at idle. Im out of state going to school and have no garage. I trailered the car up to finish it and drive. Im trying to get my hands on a compression tester and leak down tester. Whats the chances of a cometic hg being the cause? For being a new engine and not finished broken in it seems to have very low crankcase pressure. I drove it for maybe 10 minutes yesterday being easy on it and outside temp maybe 70*,coolant temp on link reached 227* I killed it to find it boiling over out the overflow. Im not sure that its smoked white though.

Another question as well. Engine has no balance shafts and new OEM oil pump (straight cut). If the stubby were to come out of the gear would it all come apart in a hurry? Or would it still spin and make oil pressure. I had a bad experience with the first pump I put on. Brand new mitsu and it siezed 8 seconds into the first start up. So im really up tight about it. I can hear a noise that sounds like a vibration. The car does has polly mounts so im trying to figure it out. Stock oil pressure guage doesnt work for some reason. I tried switching out the sendors. So I ran a mechanical oil pressure guage. It was working fine till I trailered the car up and installed the new turbo. Now it only goes up to 15psi and stays there no matter the rpms. (I think there is a kink in the line, something blocking oil flow, or the guage is bad because it makes a wining noise as rpms increase). Ive got alot into this engine and im trying to keep it together. Ive built 3 others for friends and never had these problems... Its a nightmare.

Need your help guys. Thanks

 

[92AWDHX40]

Do you have a oem oil drain, and feed?

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Well it doesn't sound good, but it sounds like you know where you need to go with it at this point with the compression and leakdown test. I would assume that new valve seals were installed when the head was worked on, but you never know. Are you sure you had it full of coolant?... Air purged and fully topped off? That temp and the boiling out the overflow definitely makes me a little nervous though. Good luck

 

[92AWDHX40]

Over flowing reminds me of the head gaskets blowing out, happened twice, one time it was just low on coolant.

 

[TalonTsi_291]

No the oil feed is stainless -4 and the drain is stainless -10. Thats what I got told to run from precision. And ya coolant was full. Or should be. I refilled it today, it didnt lose too much. But makes you nervous how so? God id love for it to just be a hg and not me tearing down a complete block ya know... Then only thing im worried about with the compression test and leak down test, is the motor is still real new. So what do I expect to see with the rings and compression numbers.

And about the oil pump... I know people have lost their stubby before. Anyone know what happens? I locktighted it and torqued it. Im just really tripping. Any way to check it all out short of dropping the pan?

 

[TalonTsi_291]

A little update. Did a boost leak test today. My tester isnt the greatest so I need to figure somethin else out. Found one at the outlet of my intercooler. Fixed it. My tb is leaking. Out of the shaft seal if im not mistaken. How do I go about fixing that? After that I noticed my afpr is leaking out of the adjuster screw. Any ideas on that? I popped the oil cap and could hear a little bit of air. And like a bubbling noise. Pulled the dipstick and got the same thing. Then I did did a compression test. Take into consideration a) motor only has 60 miles. and b) im at 7200 feet in elevation. All 4 cylinders tested 120 psi (with my dumbass forgetting the boost leak tester on the turbo. I pulled it off and retested. All cylinders were at about 145 psi. Let me know what you guys think.

 

[daren_p]

A little update. Did a boost leak test today. My tester isnt the greatest so I need to figure somethin else out. Found one at the outlet of my intercooler. Fixed it. My tb is leaking. Out of the shaft seal if im not mistaken. How do I go about fixing that? After that I noticed my afpr is leaking out of the adjuster screw. Any ideas on that? I popped the oil cap and could hear a little bit of air. And like a bubbling noise. Pulled the dipstick and got the same thing. Then I did did a compression test. Take into consideration a) motor only has 60 miles. and b) im at 7200 feet in elevation. All 4 cylinders tested 120 psi (with my dumbass forgetting the boost leak tester on the turbo. I pulled it off and retested. All cylinders were at about 145 psi. Let me know what you guys think.

VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions is your friend

TB Shaft seal replacement: TB Shaft Seals VFAQ

For the fpr, remove the adjusting screw & add some pipe dope or other liquid type sealent on the adjusting bolt (Permatex Hi Temp Sealent is great for many things on these cars). Teflon tape is not recommended.

 

[TalonTsi_291]

I figured vfaq would have a write up. Thanks for the link. As for the afpr. Like some permatex black rtv?

 

[BogusSVO]

For the fpr, remove the adjusting screw & add some pipe dope or other liquid type sealent on the adjusting bolt (Permatex Hi Temp Sealent is great for many things on these cars). Teflon tape is not recommended.

not quite right, there should be no fuel on top of the diaphram of the AFPR.

all that should be on the top of the diaphram is vaccume or boost.

I had to replace the diaphram in mine (on a fuel rail mount on a Ford)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...le-fuel-pressure-regulator.html#post152724177

Check your fuel pessure.

Cycle the car key to prime the fuel pump a few times. DO NOT START!
now pull the vac line to the AFPR, if you smell gas, or see the vac line wet with fuel. replace the Diaphram or the AFPR.

Pull the oil dip stick and smell for raw gas in the oil, if you smell gas.. change oil and filter. if the gets to be alot of gas, you can get an engine fire in the oil pan.

when there is a hole in the diaphram, raw gas can and be sucked into the intake thu the vac line, wotch then can settle on top the pistons and go past the rings (ring wash can occur)


227* degrees should not be over heating.

due to your elevation, you will have to adjust the math.

this is for sea level.

water boils at 212*

for every lb of pressure your rad cap holds, you gain 3* over biol over point.

so if your rad cap is rated for 13 lbs 13lbs x 3* = 39*

so 212* boil point + 39* = 251*

so you should not over heat or boil over till 251* ( adjust this number for your elevation)

also, according to most resorces, rad caps need to be checked or replaced every other year

 

[daren_p]

not quite right, there should be no fuel on top of the diaphram of the AFPR.

all that should be on the top of the diaphram is vaccume or boost.

I had to replace the diaphram in mine (on a fuel rail mount on a Ford)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...le-fuel-pressure-regulator.html#post152724177

Unless I read wrong, he didn't say their was fuel leaking from the FPR, he said he did a boost leak test & it was leaking, so I would assume he ment its leaking air (not fuel).

If he's for some reason leaking fuel, no that isn't correct & he has issues, which can be fixed by what you descibe but I don't believe thats the case. If its just air, do what I said. No you don't want to use an RTV to seal it up, you want to use an actual thread sealent.

 

[BogusSVO]

daren_p.. you may be correct, I am/was thinking fuel leaking from tha AFPR, not air

He did say he found it while doing a BLT.

Guess my mind was on a diffrent track, I just need more coffee......

 

[TalonTsi_291]

Haha your fine man. Ya I found it doing a blt. And im at 7200ft right now. Which would bring that temp back down wouldnt it?

Also daren, would some black rtv sufice?

 

[BogusSVO]

No you don't want to use an RTV to seal it up, you want to use an actual thread sealent.

NO NO NO RTV... pick up a roll of teflon tape, its a $1.25 at Home Depot, or $3.99 at the auto parts stores for the same stuff

 

[TalonTsi_291]

Oh ive got teflon. Im just getting mixed opinions. Daren said no tape. Haha