new engine problems

[dwdsm]

I have three big problems with my new motor/car (6-bolt no BS)

1. I think the oil pressure is way to high. 35-40psi at idle and well over 100psi under boost.

2. clutch is weird and gave out on me three times yesterday even after my friend Mario and I worked on it and bled it Sat. evening.

3. The seals are leaking like crazy! I may of made the mistake of using ultra grey along with gaskets for everything...The topline gaskets seem so cheap to me I thought it would help.

Answers.
1. I may pull off my filter housing and port my bypass some more to lower the oil pressure.

2. replacing the master and slave cyclinders. Fu@# it I got so much into it what another $150

3. Hope fully Answer #1 helps but mario and I need to see what the problem is. I'll take the timing side down to the belt only and start it to see whats going on..

What do you guys think?

 

[boosted spartan]

what weight oil are you using?..and i bet the balance shafts have been removed correct??..whenever the bs are removed the oil pressure rises alot...usually blowing out the filters if not screwed in tight enough...dont ask how i know...hahaha.

ultra gray is good for like valve cover gaskets and such..but i prefer ultra black for like the oil pan, timing cover..etc..where you know oil will absolutely be there..unlike the vc or say thermostat housing, etc.

good luck!!..btw did you build the motor yourself??

 

[dwdsm]

what weight oil are you using?..and i bet the balance shafts have been removed correct??..whenever the bs are removed the oil pressure rises alot...usually blowing out the filters if not screwed in tight enough...dont ask how i know...hahaha.

ultra gray is good for like valve cover gaskets and such..but i prefer ultra black for like the oil pan, timing cover..etc..where you know oil will absolutely be there..unlike the vc or say thermostat housing, etc.

good luck!!..btw did you build the motor yourself??

Yes My friend and I did the entire motor ourselves. Minus the machine work obviously and yes the BS have been removed. the only thing that worries me is that I have a giant B&M oil cooler and it should eat up some pressure. I had ported my relief valve slightly but now upon researching need to go alot further...I started using a 20-50 weight to hopefully slow the leak but thinking about it now I made it worse with the increased pressure.. Any other thoughts..I'll be replacing both master and slave cyclinders this week and hopefully that will solve the clutch.. Here a pic of my 2 year project...body kit haters beware...

 

[Cs4g63]

Check to see whether its the clutch master or the slave thats bad. Usually both of them wont go out at the same time. Also check the metal line and rubber hose for leaks. If one of them has a hole it will act as though the master or slave is going bad.

 

[Quasimondo]

How much ultra-grey did you use? Whenever I've put an engine together, I usually install those gaskets dry, only applying a little bit at the corners just to hold the gasket in place during assembly. I've used both OEM and Topline gaskets and never had an issue with leaking from either.

 

[dwdsm]

"Check to see whether its the clutch master or the slave thats bad. Usually both of them wont go out at the same time. Also check the metal line and rubber hose for leaks. If one of them has a hole it will act as though the master or slave is going bad."
If this is the case shouldn't I be loosing fluid? I'm not...I'll change both and I already installed a new stainless line in place of the rubber one..

How much ultra-grey did you use? Whenever I've put an engine together, I usually install those gaskets dry, only applying a little bit at the corners just to hold the gasket in place during assembly. I've used both OEM and Topline gaskets and never had an issue with leaking from either.

just a light coating on each side. I see alot of people with the crank seal leaking from not seating correctly. combine that with ultra high oil pressure and you have a winner. I'll try to talk mario into using less this time. he loves the stuff and has built several 4G63's so I think there is method to his madness...

 

[Quasimondo]

Maybe I misunderstood, are you leaking from the oil pump gasket, or just the crankshaft seal?

 

[dwdsm]

tore it down last night. ran the engine with all the timing cover stuff off..It was the oil pump shaft seal..that thing leaked like crazy. I also realized that My oil pressure is being taken before the oil cooler. Does anyone think that the pressure could drop 10 psi after the cooler? If so my pressure would be cool. I also will go with a 5w-30 instead of the 20-50 I put in there to seat the rings and to keep it from leaking so much. that should bring the pressure down. What harmful effects could I have from 10psi too much oil pressure? My turbo has a restrictor in it (BB) so that won't be an issue.

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

This is from RRE's website. I didnt know if this is what you ment by the clutch is giving out.

2G "Ghost Pedal"
On very light foot pressure on a 2Gthe pedal drops to the floor all by it's self. ?? Yes. The little rubber seal in the pic above gets a little nick in it or a piece of dirt under it. On a regular pedal push, the seal seals fine and the clutch works normally. On a very light push, the seal does not seal well and fluid will bypass it. Since the 2Gs have a heavy assist spring, the additional assist is enough pressure to keep the pedal going towards the floor all alone. Quite disturbing to watch. Replacing or rebuilding the master cylinder will fix this.


Bill

 

[Maglin]

I've seen more gaskets leak from people putting RTV on them. I would never RTV gaskets with only one exception. Water pump gaskets, and those I use permatex aviation sealant on. If you worry about a gasket leaking cause of quality use some Mopar gasket sealant spray. It won't deform the gasket like RTV will and will give you that extra assurance.

And do replace both master and slave. I've personally be burned a few times by only replacing the one that was bad at the time. Now if I replace one I do them both and they are not that much money anyways.

And last on to installed seals. The reason people always screw up the install is cause they don't have the proper tools to install them in the first place. You don't hammer on the seal to install it. I usually use the proper miller tool to install them. That way it's set in far enough and it won't deform the metal housing. Another thing to use is a seal install kit. They are not really cheap but they will work great and not hurt the seal. Another tool is a bearing race installer. If none of those are available to you then find a socket that is the same size as the housing the seal is going into. Then genitally tap the seal into place using the socket and a small hammer. It's still possible to deform the metal seal housing but usually it won't. Make sure the spring inside the seal is still their after you install it. With out that spring the seal will leak not to long after install.