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2G New Dynatek ARC-2 problem

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Neto Oliveira

Probationary Member
7
0
Jul 24, 2006
VGS-SP/Brazil, South America
Hello, I am not getting a great power with my new plug and play kit dynatek (2g), my car is a 2g gst, positive and negative wires connected the battery, my car is not capable of running 18 psi (50 trim) gap with 0.032 ...
seems not to have direfença when dynatek is on or off, will I have a bad CDI or 2 wire kit? let me know what I could do ... thank's help !!!!!!!!! help!!!!!!!!!
( stand coil , no restrike selected)....:cry::cry::cry:
 
a friend of mine had the same problem with a plug&play harness from dynatek, he sent his stuff in and they sent back the same ignition with a new harness and its been fine.
 
Look at this, this may be my problem?

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/7/1/5/0/1/dynatek_arc_2_incorrect_pin_fits.jpg" alt="Dynatek Arc-2 Incorrect Pin Fits" />


dynatek not respond my questions.....
:confused: , :banghead:
 
Look at this, this may be my problem?

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/7/1/5/0/1/dynatek_arc_2_incorrect_pin_fits.jpg" alt="Dynatek Arc-2 Incorrect Pin Fits" />


dynatek not respond my questions.....
:confused: , :banghead:

Did you find anything out yet? where did you get picture? I have evo 8 setup. havent used it yet. it was from running car. it is wired to pin 15 not 14.
 
Same here Pin 15 is correct. There is a typo in the book
I called Dynatek and he said it is wrong in the book. Actually the book the tech support guy had was wrong too. He checked with the design team and they said they are aware of the problem with the typo. The correct pin is 15. 14 is not used.
 
Did you ever find a solution to your problem? I have the same exact deal going on with mine.

Have:
Boost leak tested
Checked voltage
checked coil resistance on both 1/4 and 2/3 and it's under 2&#937;.
Dip switches set to standard coil/multispark off
Rev limit off
None of the 3 wires with bullet connectors hooked up
plug-n-play harness, Dynatek, coils (300M U249 coils) connectors are all new & wired for the not-inverted CAS
ran a separate ground for the Dynatek to the battery
added a ground wire to the head
gapped plugs at .032 and at .027 with the same result
new plugs
Tried using the invert CAS option.

Car has no EGR solenoid, no FP solenoid, no BC solenoid, no EVAP solenfoid, MAFT with IAT/Baro clamped and all DSMlink buttons under "Miscellaneous" for DSMlink v2 that represent those solenoids clicked on.

No clue. I was thinking bad coil, but the ignition works fine at low RPMs and at part-throttle driving below 14 PSI. 18 PSI caused a fireball that lit up the night sky and a nice loud BOOM that my car didn't used to make. It's as if the spark is getting blown out on 2 coils. If I womp on it from a roll, it breaks up like a coil went dead. You can hear it burning lots of fuel in the exhaust.

I know I'm not the only one having this issue with a COP setup. There are others. Nobody seems to be posting their solutions in the threads, and I know that people have managed to resolve this somehow. Help?

Really? Still no solution, eh? Wow.
 
You can contact
Raymond Goshorn
Customer Service Manager
Dynatek
TF: 800.928.DYNA (3962)
[email protected]


Same here Pin 15 is correct. There is a typo in the book
I called Dynatek and he said it is wrong in the book. Actually the book the tech support guy had was wrong too. He checked with the design team and they said they are aware of the problem with the typo. The correct pin is 15. 14 is not used.
 
Thanks Mitsumissile.

I spent the weekend beating my head on this issue until I determined that ALL of the misfiring issues under-load pertained to the trimming of the boots. The set I had were trimmed improperly. I was experiencing spark-thru issues because they didn't seal properly. So once the coil voltage stepped up under-load, I was losing spark.

I bought a new set of boots for $20 at NAPA and trimmed them so they made a water-tight seal on the plugs. I'm running a .036 gap now with restrike on or off and zero driveability issues. Even removed the Dynatek's dedicated ground to the battery (in the trunk) and bolted the ground to the frame - no problem. I'll post info about this with a video for the DIY'ers because this is the least-documented part of the coil-on-plug setup, ever, and probably responsible for 90% of the mixed-diagnoses related to coil performance after a COP install. I bet it's all because people aren't trimming the boots right. My symptoms were identical to the OP. Video in the works.
 
I want to resurrect this thread. I just got an arc-2 and I'm having arcing problems from the coils themselves. The system I got was for an evo 8, so I had to hack the harness. I totally got rid of my power transistor too. it runs, but barely. If I pull off a plug wire from the spark plug the coil will arc between say 1 and 4 where the plug wires go into the coil. I tried 2 coils, both used. My question is should I get brand new OEM coils or should I just go to something like msd part #8224? I don't want coil-on-plug either. I'd rather go OEM but I want to be sure that new ones won't arc or it would kinda be a waste of money.
 

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Wait... I thought the power transistor is what triggers the coils? When it shuts off it creates a magnetic pulse that triggers the spark...

I'm running the ARC-2 but with a coil-on-plug setup, and you keep the transistor... at least you do on my setup. The DSM wiring harness for the Dynatek connects between the plugs for the coil pack, and other than that there's just a power and ground. There's a resistor box connected to that harness as well. You wired this in without the harness, but I think you'll still need the transistor because the wiring for the COP setup bridges 1&4, 2&3 and makes them act like the factory coils. Firing order for 91-99 is 1-3-4-2, just to illustrate why 1&4 and 2&3 are wired together on COP setups. They still act as waste-spark just like the factory coils. The transistor is still needed to charge the coils so the whole dwell principle works.

My advice would be to go to a junkyard, cut off some coil plugs from a mitsubishi-anything, and make your own harness.
 
after trying a bunch of electrical genius to no avail, i ended up just using the black box that comes with the dsm kit, and it came with the evo kit for some reason, but there was no connector for it. i ended up soldering it and copying how my friend's harness was on his dsm and it works great! i'd say a butt dyno increase of like 5-10hp. i just don't get what the black box is for. i thought all the power transistor does is make the ecu signal from positive to a higher negative voltage. it seems the black box would just be to take the power transistor negative and turn that to a positive which is what the dynatek looks for when set to std coil, so this is why i thought i could just connect it right to the ecu. oh well it works now, and i'll still be getting a dsm install kit cause the harness is too short now and i have nothing to mount the dynatek to with this short of a harness.
 
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