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New Build after 6bolt c-walked...... :((((

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LTUDSM

15+ Year Contributor
1,802
7
Jun 27, 2005
Morrisville, Pennsylvania
Well here is a story: sad one Sad((

Everything started from oil leak out of the exhaust manifold.I was still driving.then my dipstick was popping out.Broke two sets of act 2100 in one month.Fixed that.Then Dropped the car at JNZ,for piston ring replacement and valve stamp seals replacement.The Guys did a good job on it.Then i Drove not even 300 miles,broke the clutch again.Fixed that..... Afyer all that i was getting a huge crankase pressure.Was smoking like a chimeney.Drop the car at JNZ again,the Guys took the Head off,and told me a @Good@ news.that my cylinder walls are damaged.So then i was hinking to quit DSM world.Took the car back from JNZ to my backyard.Was reading alot bout Engine build,and finally got ready to do all the damn thing myfelf,because i wanted now how its done.... So o took out my block,Stripped everything out of the block.Bought a new set of Wiseco Pistons.ACL race bearings,Eagle rods.Give the block and cranck to the machine shop,they bored out the cyl .20 over,and polished the crank.So i dropped all new parts for my bottom end.Started up the car it was great.Then after couple houndred miles i spun a rod bearing.So i opened the oil pan ,and i tried to move the crank,That shit was moving side to side like crazy,So i tosted my bearings and the rods got heated really bad.So after that,i bought a new block,put everything back together (new Wiseco pistons,Eagle rods,ACL race bearings) The car runs like never before........
Here are some pictures of my build:

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Any engine can walk... 7 bolts are just more prone to..
 
Yea im very surprised about that too myself, how did that happen? But your car is running pretty good now thought right? If it is then congrats on getting it up and running again!

i don't know,i realized,when my clutch broke 3 times in couple of months,then the cyl walls got damaged by the pistons,Because when crank moves,it moves along with the rods.so when i press the clutch,the crank will move and the pistons will scratch the cyl walls

Now i fixed everything,the engine feels like a champ:thumb:
 
close to 2k, or maybe a bit over 2k Thanks.... I was really about to give up,because i spent alooooot of money in those two months replacing clut@hes (whole set),plus the bottom end parts wasn't cheap eather :ohdamn:........ But i said it to Myself (F..k that,so im still here)... :rocks:
 
Congrats dude, the same thing happened to mine 3 weeks ago and im going through everything you've listed except clutch. Thank god i have patience or i would have quit to and its so expensive :banghead: but i get it back tomorrow and hopefully it pays off :hellyeah:
 
Its good you got the 1g back at the top again, its like a relief when your car runs great.

Alot of us say CW is overrated. You say its overrated till your motor gets it and i speak from experience. I hope there is no more CW cases but i doubt that. Glad your 1g is up and running.
 
You guys act like 'crankwalk' is only DSMs and 7 bolts . The retarded term 'crankwalk' is, but crank axial play wear is NOT limited to 7 bolts or DSMs. Although not typically a factory defect like it is on DSMs you can wear out the thrust bearing in any motor if it's not assembled correctly.

To the thread originator, you should take a couple things from this experience;

Engines are not tinker-toys, you don't just bolt a bunch of parts together and call that re-built, you need to check;

1. Bearing clearances (you didn't do this obviously)

2. Have rotating assemblies balanced

3. Gap rings when necessary

4. de-burr nasty casting flash where needed

5. Have your piston to wall clearance checked with proper measuring tools

6. ETC

And finally a possible reason for your pre-mature crank thrust wear - you might have had insufficient clearance, AND OR you did not 'set' the bearing properly when you torqued the main caps.
 
You guys act like 'crankwalk' is only DSMs and 7 bolts . The retarded term 'crankwalk' is, but crank axial play wear is NOT limited to 7 bolts or DSMs. Although not typically a factory defect like it is on DSMs you can wear out the thrust bearing in any motor if it's not assembled correctly.

To the thread originator, you should take a couple things from this experience;

Engines are not tinker-toys, you don't just bolt a bunch of parts together and call that re-built, you need to check;

1. Bearing clearances (you didn't do this obviously)

2. Have rotating assemblies balanced

3. Gap rings when necessary

4. de-burr nasty casting flash where needed

5. Have your piston to wall clearance checked with proper measuring tools

6. ETC

And finally a possible reason for your pre-mature crank thrust wear - you might have had insufficient clearance, AND OR you did not 'set' the bearing properly when you torqued the main caps.

...Just wanted to add one thing to this already well-put list.

6. Make sure that fu#$ing block is CLEAN! Prior, during and after the rebuild. This is one of the leading causes to spun bearings...Having debris in the motor. (This is also why you should change oil very frequently after a rebuild)

7. ETC

Congrats though on the new, well-running motor. I hope it lasts you a long time after going through all of that!
 
You guys act like 'crankwalk' is only DSMs and 7 bolts . The retarded term 'crankwalk' is, but crank axial play wear is NOT limited to 7 bolts or DSMs. Although not typically a factory defect like it is on DSMs you can wear out the thrust bearing in any motor if it's not assembled correctly.

To the thread originator, you should take a couple things from this experience;

Engines are not tinker-toys, you don't just bolt a bunch of parts together and call that re-built, you need to check;

1. Bearing clearances (you didn't do this obviously)

2. Have rotating assemblies balanced

3. Gap rings when necessary

4. de-burr nasty casting flash where needed

5. Have your piston to wall clearance checked with proper measuring tools

6. ETC

And finally a possible reason for your pre-mature crank thrust wear - you might have had insufficient clearance, AND OR you did not 'set' the bearing properly when you torqued the main caps.

im not a newb with that....

i know how to use ring filer,plasti-gauge,feeler gauge.So all the clearances where mesurred,rings were gapped at the right size.Everything with lubed with the engine building lube. I didn't just dropped in all the parts and ran the car LOL
 
did you have any problems with the clutch goin soft? im goin through the same thing apparently.
 
On my 6-bolt build I toasted the crank from driving on a spun rod bearing so I opted for a re-manufactured crank. The reman crank had side to side play that was out of service limit by .090" and two of my rod bearing were out out operational use of .040". This is usually caused by a motor run low on oil and the crank bearings wearing out the shoulders of each journal. If you ask me, whoever built your engine the first time did not check the side to side play before assembling your engine.
 
On my 6-bolt build I toasted the crank from driving on a spun rod bearing so I opted for a re-manufactured crank. The reman crank had side to side play that was out of service limit by .090" and two of my rod bearing were out out operational use of .040". This is usually caused by a motor run low on oil and the crank bearings wearing out the shoulders of each journal. If you ask me, whoever built your engine the first time did not check the side to side play before assembling your engine.

I would tend to agree with this, alot of engine builders dont spend enough time checking the crank/main bearings. The think well they snapped in nicely lets take some quick measurements and plop the crank in. It usually takes me about 4 hours just to put in bearings and the crank just because i like to check and measure everything a million times and have my good friends who i trust do the same.
 
Thats some good advice there 05gt guru. I do agree with some of the engine builders out there dont take the time to double check stuff. Its ok to be anal about builds, i like to do that just to make sure and then check and recheck as many times as i need to to insure that im right on everything. Because you never know when something will go wrong until its too late :thumb:
 
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