New bottom end! Stroker or 2.0 for auto

[420a-t]

My stock 7 bolt just took a dump (rod bearing), and I'm looking to get something forged to hold some power. Which direction should I go with my comp 101-100/101-200 cams, Holset hx-40 and a built AWD auto tranny. I was thinking of going something bigger like 2.3 or 2.4 but I need to keep the costs down by staying with a 7 bolt block. What is the best thing to do? What can I stroke my 4g63 block to? I wanted something with a little more torque since I'm auto so I can get oof the line better. This is going to be a weekend warrior/ drag car.

2.0 with 9.0/1+ compression?
build the 7 bolt to a 2.3 or 2.4 (can I do that with a stock crank?)

I'm a little comfused and want to do it right the first time. Thanks

 

[TunaTalon]

To stroke the engine or not is a complex decision. Before you decide you would do well to skim through http://www.kidzuku.com/StrokeOrNot.pdf. That is probably more than you want to read but will answer your questions above.

See my signature for how I decided that question.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

I will always recommend the 2.3 over the 2.0 in building situations. I have had both and love my 2.3. I like the quicker spool and added daily drive ability of it as well. Going with a 2.3 in an auto and getting a good stall converter will do wonders for you car. With the already quick spool of the HX-40 you will be amazed at how much quicker it will spool up but adding the small amount of displacement. There are a lot of people that advise against a 2.3 with bigger turbo's because of the inability to spin then into the higher RPM's. I know plenty of people turning in excess of 8500rpm's with zero problems.

 

[interex]

I'm building a 2.4L block up with my 2.0L head. I got my block out of a Galant for $175 delivered from a junk yard, got it bored for a set of 87mm Wiseco pistons from SBR, and am using my SBR Stage VI Race head with Crower 280 cams on it, Eagle rods, crank, and Holset HX50 (for now).

 

[420a-t]

Okay I'll read that link you setup tuna, but I'm on my iPhone right now so I can't. What can I do to keep my 63 block and stroke it? Can I use my stock crank and get different pistons and rods and be good? I've seen places sell striker pistons for the 63 and I'm not sure what else I would need

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

To stroke it you will need a 2.4L crank, stock or aftermarket length rods, and "stroker" pistons. They move the wrist pin lower on the piston to accommodate for the added stroke.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/328071-what-internals-2-3l-stroker.html

 

[interex]

You can use the 4g64 stock crank and the stroker pistons from SBR or one of the other vendors... You can use your stock rods OR get some Eagle aftermarket rods if you want.

Remember, you'll need a 4g64 crank, and pistons made for use with the extra stroke of the crank if you want to make a 2.3L stroker

 

[420a-t]

Sweet, that's what I'll do! Thanks for the info! One more thing, what special machining neds to be done to the crank/block so my 64 crank will fit into the 63 block and nothing will hit (crank, rods scraping, etc.), and which bearings should I go with? Ones made fo the 64 or 63?

Thanks again.

 

[TunaTalon]

The 4G63 block will need some grinding to keep the rod ends from hitting the block when using the 100mm stroke crankshaft. In a few cases the bottom of the oil pan will need to be "beat to fit".

If you are not comfortable with all of the parts and pieces required research the stroker kits for something to match your goals.

 

[420a-t]

Thanks. I'm confterable buying all the parts, I wasn't sure on the best way to go about it. I've just rocked the stock 7 bolt for the last 3 years, so I wanted to make sure I do it once and do it right. Thank you very much for your help

 

[JayRolla]

I say stroker. 2.0L's are good for high revving but it gets costly when trying to get a clutch and tranny that will shift that high. Strokers are not good for high rev so it will work with almost any clutch setup and save money.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

The 4G63 block will need some grinding to keep the rod ends from hitting the block when using the 100mm stroke crankshaft. In a few cases the bottom of the oil pan will need to be “beat to fit”.

If you are not comfortable with all of the parts and pieces required research the stroker kits for something to match your goals.

I have yet to run into this. Only with aluminum rods do you need to do any grinding to get the rods to fit. Never heard of the oil pan problem either. All of them I have assembled were all drop in affairs. Not extra work needed.

I say stroker. 2.0L's are good for high revving but it gets costly when trying to get a clutch and tranny that will shift that high. Strokers are not good for high rev so it will work with almost any clutch setup and save money.

Also a matter of personal opinion. I know of multiple people spinning strokers well beyond 8500rpm's with zero problems and many track passes. As long as assembly is good and all of your clearances are right on you won't run into any problems.

 

[TunaTalon]

I have yet to run into this. Only with aluminum rods do you need to do any grinding to get the rods to fit. Never heard of the oil pan problem either. All of them I have assembled were all drop in affairs. Not extra work needed.

Not all stroker conversions need machine work, but some do. For one of many such threads please see http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/southwest-dsm-forum/291756-2-3-liter-stroker-clearancing.html.

While researching for my stroker project I found only one case where the oil pan needed to be worked on. The oil pan on my Talon was happy with the 4G64 crank.

I don’t mean to say that clearance work is always needed, just that the OP should not just button up the stroker conversion and fire it up.

 

[420a-t]

Thanks for all comments and info. I'll be sure to check teh clearance of the oil pan and tell me machine guy to look out for clearances for the rods.

I thought this would be the way to go seeing that I'm an auto and as of now I shift around 7500rpms, and that it would be about the same amount of money, but getting .3l out of it for better spool and stall-up.

 

[JayRolla]

I have yet to run into this. Only with aluminum rods do you need to do any grinding to get the rods to fit. Never heard of the oil pan problem either. All of them I have assembled were all drop in affairs. Not extra work needed.



Also a matter of personal opinion. I know of multiple people spinning strokers well beyond 8500rpm's with zero problems and many track passes. As long as assembly is good and all of your clearances are right on you won't run into any problems.

Most people go with an eagle rod setup for strokers. I know Jack and them have seen these rods fail when reving high. Its fact that strokers have a lot more stress than 2.0L's at high rpms. When running a very expensive rod setup, yes you could get them to rev higher.

 

[dSmgs-T]

Not all stroker conversions need machine work, but some do. For one of many such threads please see http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/southwest-dsm-forum/291756-2-3-liter-stroker-clearancing.html.

While researching for my stroker project I found only one case where the oil pan needed to be worked on. The oil pan on my Talon was happy with the 4G64 crank.

I don’t mean to say that clearance work is always needed, just that the OP should not just button up the stroker conversion and fire it up.

mine needed to get machined... if i remember correctly it was the #3 rod that was ever so slightly tapping the block.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Most people go with an eagle rod setup for strokers. I know Jack and them have seen these rods fail when reving high. Its fact that strokers have a lot more stress than 2.0L's at high rpms. When running a very expensive rod setup, yes you could get them to rev higher.

Jack as in Jacks Transmission's. Because he is the one that recommended the Eagle/Wiseco setup for my car, and helped me pick a cam out that would allow me to turn over 8500rpm. He assured me there would be no problems with spinning it that high with the proper parts. Guy does some pretty insane work though. Just did a one-off twin disc setup for a friend of mine and I hear it feels like stock.

 

[420a-t]

Sorry to bring this back up, but if I decide to use my 7 bolt block, use a 4g64 crank, use 7 bolt scat rods, and some stroker or stock pistons, what could I rev it to? I want to do a stroker, but if I can only go to 7k, to me thats not worth it. I'm hoping for a 10-second slip sometime. Thanks

 

[tim4g63fast]

why use a 7 bolt when 6bolts are everywhere cheap and it gives you more of a piece of mind since your gonna dump thousands into a rebuild??

ever toyed witht the idea of a destroke? if I had my choice I would do a destroked 64 bottom with all aftermarket internals. booya

shamless plug: I am selling brand new stroker pistons and a set of used manley stroker rods for a good price .

 

[420a-t]

Because I have everything for a 7 bolt (headstuds, 7 bolt scat rods, 2g trany) and I don't want to buy more stuff than I have to (new headstuds, new rods, get kigglys adapter plate, etc).

I am also going to be using my 7 bolt 4g63 block, and was wondering what the best way to do this is, and also what I can rev it to.