2G Neutral safety switch bypass with auto harness in MT car

[Boostinsideways]

I have tryed jumpering the wires as you it tells you to do in many topics.

Its not working at all. No power to the starter. Does the Neutral safety switch actually have to be connected to the harness? I didn't pull it off the car I got this harness from.

I am trying to get this 96 auto harness to work in a 95 5-speed.

 

[shainesboostin]

Bump! I have a 1g, was an auto car, then a manual, now a built auto again. Having a starter issue as well. Sometimes it starts, sometimes I get nothing. Could it be the ignition switch? Starter relay? Nss? Where is the NSS?

 

[HellaDizzy]

Part of the problem of switching from AT to MT is in the starter relay operation.

The AT energizes the starter relay closing the relay contacts to the starter. The MT has the relay contacts already closed (completed circuit to starter) and only energizes (opens the contacts) to DISABLE the starter when either the alarm or clutch position switch is activated.

The MT uses relay pin 4 for the contacts (to starter) while the AT uses pin 5. This (along with the clutch position switch vs the NSS wiring) is how the harnesses are different. The easiest thing to do is just remove the starter relay and jumper the black/red wire pin to the black/yellow pin (which is what the relay does) and be done with it (unless you really need the alarm and clutch position switch disabling the starter).

BTW, ECU pin 91 is harness grounded in the MT. In the AT, pin 91 is used to tell if its in P or N when not cranking (engine is running) so the ECU can control the IAC (when in P or N).

So my car isn’t starting at all, it’s just cranking. I got it to crank by pulling a relay out and using jumper wire inside the car by radio. YouTube video I watch for manual swap, I think the guy had it wrong for splicing the wires on the big plug in the engine bay.

Now my car won’t start and has no power to those 2 wires I spliced together. For my 1995 Eagle Talon TSi. I did manual swap on it and using my automatic harness.

AI says to put the Black with Yellow stripe and the Black with Blue stripe (or sometimes solid Black) wires. Is this correct?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I’m 100% sure this YouTuber has the wires wrong..

Luv2rallye said to jump black-red wire to black and yellow wire

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[luv2rallye]

HellaDizzy: The large plug in your post 27 does not look like it has anything to do with the starter. {BTW the starter relay only activates the starter (ie. for cranking - it does not make the engine run.} Where EXACTLY is this large plug in the engine bay and what does it connect to?

Also I wouldn't trust anything AI says about car wiring or mechanics. It is not a trained and experienced mechanic but just grabs posts that have key words relating to your issue and repeats a solution that worked for others with those words/symptoms. Example: Your car is intermittently low on power and sometimes dies while idling. AI's search finds 10 posts of people with those symptoms of your very car model/year where their fix was to replace the fuel pump, which AI then says is your problem. So you spend $1500 parts and labor to have the fuel pump replaced which takes a day yet the intermittent problem is still there after you get it back and run it for a day. A trained mechanic who does the proper testing would have found the problem really is an intermittent fuel pressure regulator - a $20 part and $50 labor completed in 1 hour. This is why AI is terrible for car diagnosis. Just because someone else has the same symptoms as you doesn't mean it's the same problem (and don't fall for the friend who says "I knew a guy once...").

Proper testing is the correct way to find the real problem - not throwing new parts at it (as MOST on here do) until {hoping} one will fix it, which actually takes longer as well as is more expensive. And wiring can also be a disaster if the car had something added/changed or it's an unusual situation (like a not true power source, missing/poor/floating grounds, internally intermittent broken wire, poor connection).