Needed Advice for a new Turbo (T-25 or 16g)

[TheGreatGSX]

Ok so here's the deal. Turns out my stock T-25 seals are going, which is a bad thing but also gives me a reason to possibly get a better turbo.

I just need something that will be good for every day driving that will have some kick to shut up those annoying ricers from time to time. I've been looking into the 16g turbos, and from what I gathered it looks like a small 16g would suit me fine. I hear the Big 16g's lag a little. I would like something that could get me to 350HP later down the road.

The major thing I just want something I can easily bolt-on and go with no other mods. My car is mainly stock with a 1g BOV, and a aftermarket short-ram intake. The other question I had, I know that you need a J pipe for the 16g and a couple of engine pics I saw that the J pipe barely fit over the intake, should this be a concern?

What do you guys think? Should I just get another T-25 or go ahead and take this oppurtunity to go for a 16g? And are the 16g really bolt-on an go without any other mods?(Excluding J-Pipe)

I read up that the Big 16g is usually fine with the stock fuel system with recommendations of upgrading the fuel pump, is this the same with the small 16g? Or could I use my stock fuel pump with it?

I don't have much money and don't need anything extreme.

 

[TheGreatGSX]

Ok so I am little confused now (Bare with me) I know he meant for me to completly remove the boost controller I just worded it the wrong way. But if you think it would be good to run around 14psi with my stock fuel system then why remove the MBC and restrict it to only 9-10psi? Since I just installed my amp and subs I still have most of the interior apart so the rewiring will be even easier. I will get on that as soon as I get a chance to head up to radio shack.

 

[TheGreatGSX]

Well...I could do it myself...or attempt to anyways. The only experience I really have though is installing intakes and chaning out plugs/wires...other than that...NOTHING....so what do you think? Could I be capable of doing it? With all these noob questions I'm asking . Hell I can't even change the oil if I wanted to . Forgive me, I grew up without a father and missed these kind of things. Although electronically I am much better. As in installing systems. But I am learning so please give me some credit, I am just a late bloomer I swear. I would need like a how to replace stock turbo with 14b turbo for dummies. No idea what tools I'd need...or where to start....


EDIT: That's right, you did post a link earlier with instructions on installing. I will have to take a peek at that and then see where I stand.

 

[toofast82]

well definitely start out at 9-10psi and work your way up! yeah definitely do the rewire, especially if you have subs and amps.

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

If you need a turbo asap just to run, grab a 14b for really cheap and save up to buy the evoIII big 16g. If you're running 450's with the stock fuel system, you'll be alright to 15-16lbs but after that you'll see a need for bigger injectors. If you run it at stock boost levels, you'll be fine. The E3 will easily get you to your 375hp goals and it's quality oem mitsu. Just don't buy the fake one off ebay.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

May I suggest just buying an evo 8 fuel pump. If your not trying to reverse the rotation of the earth than there is no reason to spend 100 bucks on a fuel pump when you can spend 25 or 30 dollars for something that flows similar and is easier to install. Also I have a 14b that is ported larger than a 7cm housing and I run about 15 psi on stock fuel system. I am getting an evo3 because I'm not quite satisfied with the performance. Although there are other things i can do to improve the performance I would rather have the evo3 because I know the power it can generate from experience.

Also buy a gallant alternator from a 97 it puts out more power since you are running an amp and sub.

 

[jrohner]

A small 16g is nice for street driving, it will be fully spooled by 3500-4000k though.

What? A 16G would be a pretty lame turbo if it spooled that crappy considering how small it is. My Evo3 16G has full boost at 2700; my cousins imitation ebay-16G has full boost at 32-3300.

I would definitely go Evo3 16G again, amazing spool, amazing torque, and good power. I don't really have tons of stuff for hp, yet have over 400awhp on a dynojet (370 on a dyno dynamics). I had 340hp/380 torque (on a dyno dynamics) with stock cams, unported exhaust manifold, and a SMIC. Yes I've dynoed 3 times, but only on dyno days with a bunch of other cars for fun, NO tuning at all on the dyno.

If you want a little more power without upgrading the stock intake manifold, go with a Holset HX35.

If you just want to get going again, you can probably find a 14b for hundred and something bucks. It too would be a pretty good upgrade from the tiny t25.

 

[Splitpi]

Well...I could do it myself...or attempt to anyways. The only experience I really have though is installing intakes and chaning out plugs/wires...other than that...NOTHING....so what do you think? Could I be capable of doing it? With all these noob questions I'm asking . Hell I can't even change the oil if I wanted to . Forgive me, I grew up without a father and missed these kind of things. Although electronically I am much better. As in installing systems. But I am learning so please give me some credit, I am just a late bloomer I swear. I would need like a how to replace stock turbo with 14b turbo for dummies. No idea what tools I'd need...or where to start....


EDIT: That's right, you did post a link earlier with instructions on installing. I will have to take a peek at that and then see where I stand.

In a nut shell.

0.5) Soak the turbo bolts in PB Blaster for 3 nights prior to removal. It'll smoke like a fiend if you drive after spraying... but it is ok.
1) Jack the car up and put it on jack stands
1.5) Disconnect the battery
2) Drain the oil
3) Drain the coolant/radiator.
4) Remove the radiator [not absolutely necessary, but very helpful for the extra clearance] 4 bolts on the top and the two radiator hoses top and bottom. Lift up and out. Don't forget to to unclip the fan power connectors.
5) Disconnect the intake snorkel from the turbo and take it out of the car.
6) Remove the heat shields one over the O2 housing and one over the exhaust manifold
7) Disconnect the Oil and coolant lines from the turbo [be prepared to catch the coolant and oil as there is still plenty in the lines after draining.
8) Disconnect the Downpipe from the O2 housing.
8.5) Unbolt the O2 sensor for the O2 housing. You will need an O2 sensor socket and a breaker bar.
9) Using a breaker bar, unbolt the turbo to exhaust manifold bolts.
10) In a vise or other means unbolt the O2 housing from the Turbo.
11) With a new gasket and bolts install the O2 housing onto your NEW turbo.
12) With a new gasket and bolts install the NEW Turbo/O2 housing onto the exhaust manifold
13) pour a little oil into the oil hole [top most hole] of the turbo spin the compressor by hand. This will will "prime" the turbo.
14) With new gaskets/crush washers, plumb the turbos coolant and oil lines.
15) install the O2 sensor into the O2 housing [consider a new O2 sensor at this point as they do age and you already went through the effort of removing it.]
16) Install the heat sheilds
17) Install the Jpipe ... use RTV on turbo to JPipe connection. Don't need a lot just a nice thin layer to help seal air leaks.
18) Install the radiator. Don't forget to reconnect the fans
19) Change your oil filter and refill the oil.
20) Refill the coolant.
20.2) Perform a boost leak test and fix any leaks
20.4) Reinstall the intake snorkel to the turbo
21) Reconnect the battery
22) Disconnet the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR plug [triangular plug up on the top right near timing belt]
23) Crank the car over for a about 15 seconds. Note car will NOT start while this sensor is disconnected. We are simply doing this to prime the oil and water lines.
24) Check coolant and oil levels ... top off as needed. Make sure nothing is leaking coolant or oil. Fix leaks as needed.
25) Reconnect CRANK ANGLE SENSOR
26) Fire the engine up. It'll smoke like a fiend for about 15 miles or so.
27) Kill the engine after running for a minute or so.
28) Lower the car back down to the ground.
29) Check the oil and coolant levels one last time.
30) Enjoy!

This is a very brief install guide of the major steps you need to perform, in the order that I would do them. It is not a definitive guide however, as I don't mention how much torque to use and what not. Also, after you disconnect the crank angle sensor it'll through a code... this is normal, just drive to autozone and borrow their tool to clear the code... cost you nothing. Also because you disconnected the battery, the ECU will be reset. It'll idle weird till the ECU relearns the Long term fuel trims. This is normal aswell.

 

[TheGreatGSX]

Yeah...I defenitly think that is surpassing my skills/knowledge unfortunatley. I do appreciate your help though. Maybe I will search for someone who could possibly help me with it. Otherwise I just might pick up a 1gen turbo junker later down the road to "practice" on. Once I get the turbo I really don't need any setbacks (something like that would probably take me a week). So I'll just have to take the convienent road this time more than likely and just get it professionally installed, that way if something gets f'd up I can blame it on them . I need to find a fellow dsmer near me to give me some hands on education.

 

[dsm-onster]

Boy did you get the wrong car to play with . Your dsm will quickly give you the skills. Or you will be your mechanic's favorite customer. If you do it yourself, you will know it was done right. Not the other way around. I wouldn't trust a mechanic as far as I can throw one, and little ones don't count. These cars are notorious for running a while and seamingly proper when things are totally muffed. They break after a few miles. And the mechanic blames the car. 'It couldn't be his fault because the car ran when it left his property'. If you do it yourself, you will know it was done right because you will follow the steps religiously. You won't be in over your head. You can walk upright and can reason like the rest of us .

A turbo install is basic and easier than most other turbocars. Don't be scared. Look how many steps it takes to make macroni and cheese.

One thing to add about exhaust bolts like turbo and o2 housing bolts. Loosen a little at a time. Loosen then turn the other way. Loosen a little more than turn the other way. And loosen the turbo to manifold bolts very evenly. No more than 2 turns different per bolt. These techniques will guarantee that you won't get a broken bolt.

Use pb blaster and rap on the bolts with a wrench or other metal tool as you spray for a few days and you'll be fine.

 

[thewombis]

Use pb blaster and rap on the bolts with a wrench or other metal tool as you spray for a few days and you'll be fine.

And Hi-Temp Anti-seize is your friend for assembly!

 

[ApexVIII]

on my big 16g(not Evo3 16g) iu get full 20psi at 3300-3400 in 3rd gear pull. very nice turbo for street driving

 

[mountaineerjeff]

well from the link you provided it does not look like that will be a bolt on anyway, It looks like the waste gate is welded shut, so you would have to be externally gated. The 16g is most definently the way to go though.