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Need your Opinion. Is my Pressure Plate Salvageable after throwout bearing blew up?

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StrokerMax

Proven Member
161
11
Mar 27, 2014
Colorado Spring, Colorado
Hello,

I ignored the tons of posts on not using the ACT throwout bearings. Well my throwout bearing blew up with only about 3500 miles on it. Now I'm going with the OEM throwout.

My clutch disk has a few small wear marks but its not bad at all. My Pressure plate now has some light groove marks from the seized throwout bearing.

DO you think this pressure plate is salvageable? It was hard to get a good photo
 

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Thank you! I thought it looked okay but wanted to make sure I got other opinions before putting it back together. I don't want to pull my tranny again for a while.

I've had bad luck and this is my 3rd tranny pull in 3500 miles. I replaced the clutch when I bought the car and re-built the motor. Then after about 20 miles on my new motor, my tranny blew up (had it built by Jacks). And now my throwout bearing grenades. :banghead:
 
The reason for a TO bearing is to connect a stationary clutch fork to a rotating set of fingers on the PP. So the contact point of the bearing on the fingers will be stationary (will not move across the fingers). Unless the fingers are severely damaged (like broken off or bent) just some scratches on them won't matter. I think you'll be fine with them. And remember ALWAYS use the factory TO bearing (as everyone on here has said) - now you've seen first hand what can happen when you don't.
 
+1, but I would keep it in the back of my mind that if the fingers got too hot where they spun on the bearing that it may have affected the temper of the steel and made the fingers brittle. They look pretty purple. If that happens, you can break fingers off and be in a world of hurt. Happened to me on my E30 a while back. It sucked A**.... If you reuse it, file the edges of the fingers if it looks bad enough that they may touch when compressed. Also, did you have a leak in there? Looks pretty schmeggy for 3,500 miles. I'd clean everything and double check your slave and rear main. Like you said, you don't want to pull it again...
 
When purchasing a TOB, I usually also try to have a spare one on hand. That way, when replacement is needed, you will have one. This way, all you need to order is the replacement. I do this for many of the wear items. You may also want to check the condition of the seals on the trans-axle and rear main seal to replace as needed.
 
Right on! Thank you for the help everyone! I will make sure to check all my seals and clean everything up real good before putting it back together. I'm relieved that this is an inexpensive repair. Dang $30 part cost me a weekend of work. Sure beats the cost of a full clutch replacement at least.

Now I get to wait for parts.
 
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