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2G Need some help with wiring to the front doors

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gsmokez

10+ Year Contributor
129
14
Mar 30, 2009
Brampton, ON_Canada
Hey guys, so long story short I've been working on replacing all the speakers in the car with something a bit on the higher end. I've installed the rears and they sound great, I'm running Hertz HCX 690s in the rear on an Infinity Kappa Four amplifier. Now I'm trying to run Hertz HCX 165s in the front but I'm having a lot of trouble with the wiring.

I used 12 gauge wiring for the rear speakers and I'd like to use them for the front too but I can't seem to find a way to get the wire to the doors from inside the car. The amp is mounted under the passenger's seat. When I reach through the door panel and feel inside the rubber boot it doesn't really seem like there is any room in there for a 12 gauge wire. Just wondering if anyone has done this or if anyone has any suggestions?

By the way this is all in a 1997 Eclipse Spyder GST-X
 
All the time.

Get a straightened out coat hanger and some wire lube. Make a small loop at one end of the coat hanger, lube it up and feed it through the door boot from door to passenger compartment. Insert wire into loop, re-lube and pull wires back through while working the boot to assist fishing the wire through.

TBH 12awg is overkill for those speakers, but bigger won't hirt, save being a pain to route like you're noticing.
 
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All the time.

Get a straightened out coat hanger and some wire lube. Make a small loop at one end of the coat hanger, lube it up and feed it through the door boot from door to passenger compartment. Insert wire into loop, re-lube and pull wires back through while working the boot to assist fishing the wire through.

TBH 12awg is overkill for those speakers, but bigger won't hirt, save being a pain to route like you're noticing.

Have you done this before on a 2G? I've searched quite a few threads and it seems like people run into a clip in there, basically exactly what dustyboner posted above. I was just wondering if you were able to get around it using this method. I knew 12 gauge was overkill but I just figured I'll be running over 100RMS to each speaker, I'd rather be safe and just use something that was a little more than necessary, definitely didn't expect to run into this issue.

you'll have a problem because of the way its designed.
take a look at http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/help-needed-interior-wire-harness.517571/#post-153688871
It will give you a good idea of what you are dealing with.

you might be able to drill a hole
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and run the wires like
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Oh man that looks like a pain in the ass to drill there and route it through properly. Have you ever done it before? Thanks for the detailed pictures, really makes it clear how difficult this is going to be :cry:.
 
Ah, molex plug. Dustyboner is correct, it's been a while since I've done a 2g specifically, but I run wires every day for work. Molex plugs you do exactly what @dustyboner said and use the wire hanger method to fish the wires the rest of the way.
 
Ah, molex plug. Dustyboner is correct

Yeah I'm going to take a look to see if I'll be able to drill and route where he indicated. Has anyone drilled their own holes and just installed another boot? I'm starting to feel like that may be the easier route here.

Edit: Oh so after taking a closer look at that picture, seems like a good idea. Just drill on the lower side of the plastic connector and fish it through but will I be able to take the door boot off on the other side? That way I can have the door boot removed on both sides, drill the hole, get it out of the car and then fish it through the boot and into the door.
 
I did that, that’s the only way I found to get extra wires in to the doors.

You unplug the connector and remove the connector from the lower a pillar and you can bring the connector facing the drivers seat to drill it.

The hard part is not to drill it but to remove the plug from the frame.
 
I did that, that’s the only way I found to get extra wires in to the doors.

You unplug the connector and remove the connector from the lower a pillar and you can bring the connector facing the drivers seat to drill it.

The hard part is not to drill it but to remove the plug from the frame.

Yeah I'm going to give it a try on Thursday. Any tips or tricks for me on removing the plastic piece? I have to disconnect the connector just to drill through the plastic piece?
 
It’s going to be a pain in the $$$ to unbolt the connector from inside the car, it’s tight and you have to remove the fuse box to gain asses to the connector bolts.

I did it this way the first time I insert wires to the door, but the second time I did it, unbolt the door, this is way easier to do.

Just put a jack to hold the door (put some rags on the jack) and unbolt the door, move the door back to have asses to the connector and you can drill the holes to the connector from the outside and pass the wires , bolt the door back on and you are set.
 
It’s going to be a pain in the $$$ to unbolt the connector from inside the car, it’s tight and you have to remove the fuse box to gain asses to the connector bolts.

I did it this way the first time I insert wires to the door, but the second time I did it, unbolt the door, this is way easier to do.

Just put a jack to hold the door (put some rags on the jack) and unbolt the door, move the door back to have asses to the connector and you can drill the holes to the connector from the outside and pass the wires , bolt the door back on and you are set.

Sounds good, going to give this a try tonight.
 
Well I got it done guys, HUGE thank you to you guys for the guidance, really appreciate that. Going to tackle the driver's side tomorrow. Putting that door back on is a lot harder than I thought it was going to be.
 
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yea It’s a bit time consuming but you will spend more time on trying to remove the connector from inside the car unhook the wiring and removing the fuse box but after that you need quite a bit of space to bring the looong conector housing out of the frame and the wiring has not much slack to play with.
 
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yea It’s a bit time consuming but you will spend more time on trying to remove the connector from inside the car unhook the wiring and removing the fuse box but after that you need quite a bit of space to bring the looong conector housing out of the frame and the wiring has not much slack to play with.

Oh for sure, I looked at it from inside and knew I didnt want to anything in there. Next to no room to work with, I think it was much easier doing it from outside.
 
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