Need Some BOV Advice...

[Liger Zero]

Hey guys,

I currently have a broken Greddy Type S BOV on my car. The only part thats broken is the lids threads for the adjustment screw are stripped out. I was thinking that maybe I could just buy a replacement lid and call it a day, but I do not know where to buy replacement parts for the Greddy BOVs. The only other thing is Im trying to find a stock BOV that is in working order. Which is my best option, and if you say fixing the Greddy where do I get the parts? Thanks!!!

 

[wickednightmare]

Hey guys,

I currently have a broken Greddy Type S BOV on my car. The only part thats broken is the lids threads for the adjustment screw are stripped out. I was thinking that maybe I could just buy a replacement lid and call it a day, but I do not know where to buy replacement parts for the Greddy BOVs. The only other thing is Im trying to find a stock BOV that is in working order. Which is my best option, and if you say fixing the Greddy where do I get the parts? Thanks!!!

hey man i would just get a stocker there good i'll pm ya

 

[Liger Zero]

OK Great thank you! But can someone tell me where to buy replacement parts for a Greddy Type S to see how much it would cost, so I could do a price comparison. Thanks!

 

[rich3389]

You could buy a greddy knock off from ebay and use that cap from that.

 

[Liger Zero]

how much do they usually go for? im not too sure what im looking for either...

 

[bluetlr2001]

The knock-offs you can find for $20 shipped or sometimes less just type in type-s bov and itll bring up a ton of stuff. Also you could just retap teh hole which many people have done because tehy are bad about stripping out. Its just aluminum so it is very easy to strip and also very easy to rethread. But what ever bolt you use besure to boost leak test to make sure it isnt leaking and if it is just use some teflon tape with will help seal it up. But as far as finding replacement parts for it you will just have to search the web. I dont know if you will find a actually greddy top though since the type-s has been discontinued

 

[EPerkins]

Another member on this site posted a thread on HowTo rethread your BOV. He had the same problem with it being stripped and he posted a way to rethread it so you won't have to spend money on a replacement. All this info was provided by DSMvroom. All I did was find it and copy and paste it for you. Hope it helps.

Tools you need:

safety goggles
1/4" drill bit
power drill : recommend AT LEAST a 12v ; It was real tough to do with my 12v
pliers
Permacoil thread repair kit (or something similar) : M6 x 1.0 Metric <- that measurement is what is important

Q-tips : the more the better.
3-in-1 Multi Purpose Oil ; really you can use any oil, but types like motor oil is too thick.
M6x1.0 x 20 screw

not all the tools are shown in the pic

STEP 1:
ightly coat the installed drill bit with oil all the way around. Don't worry if you use too much as it wont hurt.

STEP 2:
Secure the BOV down to a work table or something so that it won't twist when you are drilling. You can even use some wood, drill holes into it using the gasket as a template, and temporarily bolt the bov into the wood. Then you can stand on the ends of the wood to keep it still while you . . . .

STEP 3:
Put on your safety goggles and . . .

STEP 4:
Carefully drill out the remaining threads inside the bov. Try to keep as perpendicular to the BOV's plane as possible, though you will find the threads will somewhat aim you in the proper angle.

Be aware of the wetness of the drill and bov. You want to keep it lubricated so it doesnt heat up while drilling.

STEP 5:
soak a q-tip with just enough oil to moisten the entire tip, and turn the bov upside down so gravity will work with you and not against you. Use the q-tip and "screw" it in all the way and keep turning in the same direction as you pull out.

STEP 6:
repeat step 5 until it's clean inside.

STEP 7:
use the tapping bit to rethread the newly drilled hole; again, use the oil to wet the bit to make it easier.

GO SLOWLY, you don't want to rush this part. Turn a half turn, then back a quarter turn. Keep doing this while adding oil if you feel it is necessary, though it most likely will not be needed more than once. When you feel like you have gone in about a half an inch, back it out slowly going about a half a turn each time.

STEP 8:
repeat step 7 TWO more times minimum. Go three times if you still feel like it is cutting a fair amount. Use the q-tip method to clean the tapping bit and the inside of the bov between each repetition. The better it cuts the grooves in, the better your new threads will be.

STEP 9:
You have the option to either use the supplied plastic tool to help aim the coil or to just do without it. I tried using the plastic tool three times and broke three coils before the third one got stuck and broke inside the plastic tool, so I threw it away and just used the insertion tool by itself.

There is what is called a 'tang' on one side of the coil which is sorta like a tail and near it there is a notch on the coil where it will be broken off later. DO NOT BREAK IT OFF NOW OR YOU MIGHT AS WELL THROW THAT COIL AWAY.

The way I did it because the tool was mad stupid . . .

I used an oil dampened q-tip head to re-wet the new threads, and also wet the coil I was about to use. I then set the coil tang down on top of the bov and used my finger to start screwing it into the newly rethreaded hole. As soon as it bit, I used the insertion tool to continue screwing it in further. Keep going until the coil has gone in about 3/4 of the way in.

STEP 10:
take a skinny and durable object (i used a skinny drill bit) and while holding the bov upside down, break the tang off the coil by hammering the bit into the coil. More specifically, I made sure the bit was touching the tang, turned it upside down, and mashed down strong enough so that the tang broke. It will fall out fairly easily after that. Do not wait until the coil is in too far or else you will never get that tang out.

STEP 11:
Take your screw (new or the one that came with the bov) and start screwing it into its new home. As you do this, the coil will continue to go in further because of the oil that you had placed earlier . . . how smart! Dont' worry It wont keep going; as soon as the entire coil is inside the bov, it will stop following the screw. why? i dunno, but it just does. If it doesn't follow the screw for whatever reason, you can use the pliers and grab the coil at its closest point to the bov that isn't threaded in yet and push it in its general direction.

 

[All_Boost16G]

I had the same problem, just put a heli-coil in it and you'll be fine, I put a standard thearded heli coil, but just follow the intrusctions in the above post.

 

[Liger Zero]

Thanks so much everyone for your help!!!

I had the same problem, just put a heli-coil in it and you'll be fine, I put a standard thearded heli coil, but just follow the intrusctions in the above post.

What is a heli coil? Thanks!

 

[zhjiln]

just look up NGR type S on ebay... and on youtube if you want to see it in action....

i bought one and it looks like those cheap ebay type S ...but inside its different and has the real whistle...

 

[Liger Zero]

Hey guys! I found this on ebay. Right now my BOV is mounted to the stock pipe, do you think itd be worthwhile getting this? Or is it too much for what it is, and you think it might be junk?

eBay Motors: Type S TURBO BLOW OFF VALVE BOV + 2.5" ADAPTER PIPE (item 380087939453 end time Dec-13-08 14:19:00 PST)

 

[Liger Zero]

just look up NGR type S on ebay... and on youtube if you want to see it in action....

i bought one and it looks like those cheap ebay type S ...but inside its different and has the real whistle...

I checked that out, just a little more than Id like to spend. The only one I found was $130 shipped.