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Need help with torquing

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Edit: As for your initial question, usually go anywhere between the two given torque values. However, if you have a cheaper torque wrench like me which hasn't been calibrated in the last 4 years, it's better to torque close or at the maximum value. Better to be slightly tighter than looser in that case.
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You're talking about the head bolts on a 7 bolt, right? I just did that and it was the only procedure like that.

Essentially you first torque everything to the specified 14 lbs ft (20 Nm), then mark each bolt on the head somehow either with a scribe pen or a white marker. Mark a line that points toward the back of the head, for example. Then you take a bigger torque wrench or cheater bar, make it parallel to the painted line, and slowly turn it until it reaches a 90 degree angle to your starting position. It's better to stop 1-2 times during the way to make sure you didn't go over the 90 degree limit, otherwise you'll have to start again on the WHOLE procedure. You have to eyeball the mark, but that's how it's done in many places whenever you don't have a proper angle gauge that you can put on the extension/socket.

You follow the tightening pattern on all other bolts to 90, then recheck all the painted lines are now parallel to each other and pointing 90 degrees away from the starting point. Then you do the exact same thing, using the same marks, for another 90 degree turn.

Take a look at this photo of my head, the area circled in green. You can see the white dots/lines on the head bolts. Those are in the final position. Initially the lines were at number 1 (yellow). Then you do the 90 degree turn, it puts them at the 2nd mark (red line). Then you do the final, second turn, which puts them at the 3rd position.
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Edit: As for your initial question, usually go anywhere between the two given torque values. However, if you have a cheaper torque wrench like me which hasn't been calibrated in the last 4 years, it's better to torque close or at the maximum value. Better to be slightly tighter than looser in that case.
--------------------------------------
You're talking about the head bolts on a 7 bolt, right? I just did that and it was the only procedure like that.

Essentially you first torque everything to the specified 14 lbs ft (20 Nm), then mark each bolt on the head somehow either with a scribe pen or a white marker. Mark a line that points toward the back of the head, for example. Then you take a bigger torque wrench or cheater bar, make it parallel to the painted line, and slowly turn it until it reaches a 90 degree angle to your starting position. It's better to stop 1-2 times during the way to make sure you didn't go over the 90 degree limit, otherwise you'll have to start again on the WHOLE procedure. You have to eyeball the mark, but that's how it's done in many places whenever you don't have a proper angle gauge that you can put on the extension/socket.

You follow the tightening pattern on all other bolts to 90, then recheck all the painted lines are now parallel to each other and pointing 90 degrees away from the starting point. Then you do the exact same thing, using the same marks, for another 90 degree turn.

Take a look at this photo of my head, the area circled in green. You can see the white dots/lines on the head bolts. Those are in the final position. Initially the lines were at number 1 (yellow). Then you do the 90 degree turn, it puts them at the 2nd mark (red line). Then you do the final, second turn, which puts them at the 3rd position.
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Ok now I get it!! So what about if it said something like +60°-70°, that means after I rotate it 60°, I then go counterclockwise 70° right? If so why can't they just put it as -10°.
 
Haven't ever seen sth like +60° -70°
But if its shown like this, then you're right, and have to go counterclockwise. But maybe it means "+60-70°" ("+60 to 70°")

Why you have to do it in steps:
For example on the zylinder head you have stretchable screws. You have to do it in steps, so they can stretch evenly.
If you do it in one step, the screws might tear off.
Also you tighten your zylinder head not evenly, so the gasket or even the head itself will get damaged.
 
where in between 94-101 is the best to torque it at?
It would be fine if the torque is within the specified range. Normally you set the torque at the middle of the range. In this case, (94+101)/2=97.5ft/lbs. This is because many torque wrench's accuracy is ±3~4%.
Say for example, this part needs be torqued to 94-101 ft. lbs
I assume you are talking about flywheel bolts.
If so, use a torque wrench and apply red or blue loctite to the bolt threads and the under bolt head, then torque to 100ft/lbs with criss cross pattern.
 
Ok now I get it!! So what about if it said something like +60°-70°, that means after I rotate it 60°, I then go counterclockwise 70° right? If so why can't they just put it as -10°.

Are you looking this up from a Chiltons/Haynes manual? Or someplace else? I think the +60°-70° means tightening in a range from 60 degrees (clockwise) to 70 degrees (clockwise). So, anywhere in between should be fine. For example, on the rod end bolts, the FSM (factory book) says to tighten between 90 and 100 degrees. If you do less than 90, "the bolt will come loose". If you do over 100, "undo the bolt and retighten". The only case where the book calls for temporarily tightening, then undoing, is when dealing with bolts that are meant to stretch, such as head bolts. Take a look at this page from the manual, it explains it very clearly.

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