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Need help with BSE

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420a-t

15+ Year Contributor
609
4
Jun 13, 2005
Idaho Falls, Idaho
This is my front bearing, with the new one pressed in. Does it look alright, or should it be more centered? Does it matter that it's off a little bit? I'm looking to put this back together and hopefully have it on the road ASAP.

Thanks guys,

Josh
 

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How far it it recessed on the front side? Generally speaking and if perfection is the objective they are usually centered.
 
looks like youve got a good bit more to go man!

Its such a pita to put that bearing in there. Use just a long punch and tap around the edges untill its flush with the edge of the casting, then take a socket that is slightly smaller then the OD of the bearing (hope you have a good selection of sockets), and take it in a bit more until its centered in the casting opening.

When I did my BSE a couple weeks back I put the bearing closest to the front cover in before the one that goes wayy in there, big mistake! It was a huge nightmare to get in, but I got it done, and its all the way centered too. Might went in very very tight as it should.
Goodluck.
 
Thanks for the responses.

alright, fixed the BSE bearing. I took it for a drive tonight just to see what's going on after putting in 10w-40 oil in it to see if those two would solve my problem. They didn't.

Oil pressure at idle is between 10-12psi at 1000rpms. At 2000rpms, pressure is 22psi, which is good. But whenever I rev it or get on it, oil pressure steadily increases to 35-ish psi and just stops there, no matter how high I rev it.

I also just found that I have a pretty dran good oil leak coming from either the OFH-to front case, or from the front case. I'm going to take a look at that tomorrow, but does anyone have ideas to where it could be coming from? would a leak like that cuase my oil pressure to stop climbing?

I also ported my OFH, would a stuck relief spring cause this as well?

Thanks guys,

Josh
 
Did you remember to put a bolt in the hole where the front balance shaft used to be? If you forgot that will cause a pretty decent oil leak. Ask me how I know...

Are you talking about the bolt that holds the balance shaft belt pulley to the front case, because I think that is only necessary on a 6 bolt. I saw no opening on the front case where that bolt goes on my 7 bolt. I did however read a thread a couple days later about needing to plug that hole but it was all for 1g cars. I can't see it causing a problem because the hole doesn't go throught the front case, its just recessed in the metal. I didn't install the engine yet so I don't know what will happen and I already put my timing cover on and don't plan on taking it off again. The thread scared me though so if someone could elaborate more it would be great.
 
Nevermind I think I was confused about which hole you were talking about, its another one that causes the leaks. I have a 7 bolt and I used a complete balance shaft kit eliminator kit, I should be fine.

Edit: I found a thread about what I was talking about the first time. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/320718-after-rebuild-bse-major-oil-leak.html Scroll down to post #22. This is for a 6 bolt front case the 7 bolt doesn't go all the way through like the hole circled in red. So I guess I answered my own question and this is not where your leak is coming from.
 
Alright I took the timing belt cover off now, and I can see That I have an oil leak somewhere over there. Where all could there be oil leaks?

Was this ported too far on my OFH?
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I just drove it again, and found my previous oil leak was coming from the valve cover, which is awesome (that it was easy). I'm still having problems with my oil pressure however...

I now get 10-12psi at idle (1k), and then it will climb when I rev it, but then, after about 3k, the pressure stops around 40-45psi, even if I'm revving to 7k. Is this going to cause a problem? I put on a mighty max foreward facing oil filter housing (unported) for a 7 bolt with a sandwich adapter and a cooler, and I have no balance shafts. I have no oil leaks, and my oil pump was good when I installed it into the same front case too.

Also, when I rev my motor now, it will go to about 3k-ish and I'll hear a noise that kind of sounds like a dirt bike, what would cause this? It will rev fine up to 3k, and stop there for a second, then finish revving up to 7k no problems. I noticed my WB02 reads super lean at this part, would being really lean cause that sound, only when I'm free-revving it, but not when there's load on it?
 
I thought I got the center bearing in all the way on my bse kit, but I took the pan off again, and it's still not centered. Do I have to take my front case off to get to the bearing, or can I just take my pan off, like I have right now, and be able to kick it in a little more? Any info on how to do that would be awesome, as I'd like to start driving it yesterday.

I think that can be the only other thing causing my low oil pressure....I don't want to loose this brand new motor with 15 miles on it LOL.

Thanks
 
I finally figured it out for anyone who runs into this later.

I found that my sandich adapter and/or 1g oil cooler was causing my low oil pressure. I decided to take it off and see what happens, and boom, 80psi at startup (which has never happened before).

The question is why did it do this? Do I have to have my oil cooler in a certian position, is something wrong with the cooler, is there only one way the oil coolers can run, or is the ports in my sandwich adapter just too big? I was using the sandwich adapter>-6an lines> 1g oil cooler>sandwich adapter.

Here's a pic of my oil cooler, and a link to a sandwich adapter that looks just like the one I tried out.


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