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ECMlink Need Help With Base Tune/Timing Tabl

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Ethan, I forgot to mention the fuel sliders that Tony did. He is right, set them to zero for now.
Thanks guys!
 
Ethan, I forgot to mention the fuel sliders that Tony did. He is right, set them to zero for now.
Thanks guys!
Thank you both! I have changed injector deadtime from 450 to 330, zeroed out my fuel sliders, copied over the 2g timing map which is a little more conservative, and changed wideband to undefined in the ECU Inputs tab. This shouldn't change anything if narrowband simulation is disabled, should it? Nevertheless, I don't think it will hurt. Should any of my ECU Input Locks for Factory Code be enabled?
 
I don't lock any of mine but I have seen some logs that have some of them locked, IDK why myself unless testing. Anyone else lock any factory codes???
 
I don't lock any of mine but I have seen some logs that have some of them locked, IDK why myself unless testing. Anyone else lock any factory codes???
I've read that if you don't lock them the ecu keeps checking for them or something along those lines. I've never locked them but it's supposed good practice to lock.
 
I've read that if you don't lock them the ecu keeps checking for them or something along those lines. I've never locked them but it's supposed good practice to lock.
I unlocked all of them when I wired my wideband to the EGR temp pin. I assumed that if the egr temp was locked, it wouldn't read wideband correctly. Not sure, but I'm just going to leave them all unlocked unless I come across an issue that I think is causing it. Thanks!
 
What should my TPS Offset and TPS Scale be when I begin the throttle body adjustment process? Or should I completely disable TPS adjustments prior to adjusting the tb? I read up on how to do it, and it seems fairly simple step-by-step.
 
Well its a bi*** to get to the 2 bolts of the TPS loose and once you do, I highly recommend replacing them with allen head screws for easier access the next time you may need to do anything there.
Zero the adjustment and run link. Turn the TPS until Link reads around .63v (it usually moves up about .01v when the car is running) on TPS voltage. That will set the zero part or get it super close, then check WOT voltage and it should read between 4.8-5v. If not, use the adjustment tool in link to make the zero and the 100% read correctly (zero and 100%) and leave it alone. When tightening the bolts back down, the TPS will sometimes (a lot of times) move a bit so keep an eye on the Link reading while snugging the bolts back down. After its tight, if it moved you can use the adjustment tool to fine tune it but it is always best to get the sensor as close mechanically as possible.
 
Well its a bi*** to get to the 2 bolts of the TPS loose and once you do, I highly recommend replacing them with allen head screws for easier access the next time you may need to do anything there.
Zero the adjustment and run link. Turn the TPS until Link reads around .63v (it usually moves up about .01v when the car is running) on TPS voltage. That will set the zero part or get it super close, then check WOT voltage and it should read between 4.8-5v. If not, use the adjustment tool in link to make the zero and the 100% read correctly (zero and 100%) and leave it alone. When tightening the bolts back down, the TPS will sometimes (a lot of times) move a bit so keep an eye on the Link reading while snugging the bolts back down. After its tight, if it moved you can use the adjustment tool to fine tune it but it is always best to get the sensor as close mechanically as possible.

I am running an S90 74mm throttle body. Is there something different I need to do? The screw that changes the voltage is on the top and the side closest to the throttle cable. I adjusted it until I was seeing .63v closed. There only seems to be one more adjustment screw, and it is on the bottom. I believe that is the BISS adjustment screw, but I could be wrong. Anyway, after adjusting the top screw, here was my idle log, not pretty!
 

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  • adjustedTPSidle.elg
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Its hating that. I notice that you dont have "enable narrowband simulation" so check that box and copy to ecu.
I didn't realize you had a bigger TB so although Link wants .63 or so, if you find a "sweet" spot for the adjustment that the car likes, leave that and take another log for us to see.
 
Found the spot where it idles good around 900rpm when warmed up. Still having an issue holding a steady RPM if I'm less than 50% throttle or so (shown in log). My AFR sensor/gauge is reading 7.5 again. There may be a loose wire somewhere... It seems to work on and off.
 

Attachments

  • TPSAdjustedWarmIdle.elg
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Def work on the TPS. My other car (Dodge Stratus) which is a mitubishi in disguise, had a TPS adjustment issue and the RPMs were completely out of whack.

That caused all kinds of problems. Shifting was completely off, car wanted to stall, etc.

Calibrated the TPS and like magic it was running the way it should again!
 
Thank you @frosh29, that sensor is pretty important for the car to run right
Thanks @Vegas smith, I hadn't noticed the dual O2 sensor setup so my bad :ohdamn:
 
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