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KmDAVIS6705

10+ Year Contributor
72
0
Jul 31, 2009
Princeton, West Virginia
I Know that this isn't how you start as a new guy, but i really need some expert help and i need it fast. I have a 95 Talon tsi, 20lbs,18g, AFR running in the high 11 under WOT and full boost. This is the prob, I went into WOT the other day and the car sounded like it had fule cutat low RPM,under 3000.
The next thing that happende was a loud pop and the car would idle but would not rev over 1500rpm, pulled over and saw a blown exhaust manifold gasket and hade it towed home. The car idled fine before i replaced the exhaust manifold gasket,now with a new Gasket the car wont start. and Im almoust sure that it's not the turbo (intake and exhaust spin freeley)and the timing is spot on. The car was tuned properley before this happened so i have no questions about that. Please help the new guy...
 
Yes all have been covered, the car would start after I poped the exhaust gasket but would not start after i replaced it. Would not rev over 1500rpm. I have a feeling its something elect but im not sure what.
 
An exhaust manifold gasket wouldn't cause a no start unless you royally screwed it up, which I doubt you did. Does it even try to start?

If your BLT, spark, fuel, and compression all checks out you should at least be getting a backfire or sputter or something. When your exhaust gasket blew, where did the hot gases go?
 
After i replaced the gasket I got 1 and only 1 backfire whick blew the ic piping apart, i put it back togeather rechecked the timing and tryed to start it several more times with no luck. Several people are saying that it could be the CPS, but they dont just up and quit working from my exp.
 
Only reason i ask about the exhaust is becuase i had a firebird (understood completely different platform) and it had similar issues and it was because the exhaust ended up being plugged.

Does the engine sound like its hard to turn over when trying to start.
 
Cas Is what I was leaning towardsbut from my exp they don't just go bad. How do you check your cas, with a multmeter?

From what I've read they will shit the bed at will. There is a multimeter test. Give me a sec and I'll grab my haynes manual to verify the voltage numbers.

Both checks with key on:

disconnect harness, terminal 3 should be approximately 12 volts. Terminal 1 should be 4.8 to 5.2 volts. Termnial 4 is the ground, check for continuity.

This is only a test for the circuit, but it's something to check. If the CAS is bad it will throw a code 23 per the haynes manual.

Another thing, did you check the timing marks on the cam gears? I know you said the timing was fine but it's a really quick "just in case" check.
 
I plan on testing it tomorrow I have a shop manual, it should be in there. I was looking for any other ideas that I haven't thought of. If a cam is off one tooth, intake or exhaust,would that cause it not to start.
 
I plan on testing it tomorrow I have a shop manual, it should be in there. I was looking for any other ideas that I haven't thought of. If a cam is off one tooth, intake or exhaust,would that cause it not to start.

I'm honestly not sure, I've never had my timing gears off by a tooth.
 
It sounds like your leaking manifold gasket and your current problem are not related. What is your fuel pressure and compression at?
 
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