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need help! dont know what to do.

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henze44

10+ Year Contributor
37
0
Mar 8, 2012
Lima, Ohio
I am lost. I have a 97 gst. From 2 grand till 3 grand it loses all the power just falls flat on its face. The wideband bottoms out at 10 and my guess is its running richer than that. I have no clue what to do anymore and don't have the kind of money where I can take it to a shop and just tell them to fix it. The car has a greddy blowoff valve, greddy profec type s boost controller, safc2, aem wide band setup, pte5857 turbo. Any suggestions on what I can do where I can possibly take it? Willing to here everyone out on this... please help!
 
6 bolt swap is a big plus. stronger engine no risk of crank walk. from reading through the post i had a car that would run good in first gear and as long as i kept it high rpm's it would rip. if i tried to cruise around and kept it at a certain point it would bog and buck. i had a cel on that was because of an o2 sensor. i changed the sensor and the car would pull hard again and drove normal. Did you check out your o2 sensors for being clogged up and S##ty.. could be something simple like that that hasnt been suggested yet on this post..

I have a bad rear o2 sensor the heater element is bad in it. the front one is still good i believe. hasnt shown a cel for it.

So since the bad one is the rear o2 and i have a 3 inch exhaust with no cat is there any reason of changing it since its still going to through a code for having no cat.
 
The rear O2 is only there to ensure the cat is working correctly; it doesnt effect performance. If you want to get rid of the annoying code, or if youre getting a check engine light because of it, just go to the parts store and bring your O2 sensor with you. Ask for a sparkplug Non-fouler that will screw onto your O2 sensor and dont take no for an answer or be bothered when they look at you funny. Screw the nonfouler onto the sensor, then screw the sensor back into the exhaust pipe and plug it back in. This usually works to eliminate annoying rear O2 codes and its cheap.

Oh, and congrats on the 6bolt swap!!
 
Ok I do have another question on my boost controller.... where do I hook up the com and the no ports? I have a internal wastegate turbo that has a blue vacuum line running around it... I believe the no port is T in to the blowoff vacuum line. So do I take the com port and T it in the blue vacuum line on the turbo???

The blue vacuum lines goes from a port on the turbo to the wastegate.

Ands its good to hear that the engine is stronger less worries I have bout something breaking. Thanks for the info bout the 6 bolt stuff. Never would have thought of it.

Also was feading on putting the non fouler spark plug on my rear o2 what's you opinion on that for how many?

I have seen some people put 2 on a o2 sensor and seen that some people say don't do it just only put one on it for you will throw another code for inactivity or something along the lines.
 
well parts are going to be installed tomorrow. need some suggestions for the other things please... especially the O2 sensor and the boost control.
 
well an update in the car... the boost leaks were fixed on the car last night with the new fpr and throttle body rebuild. will start it today and see what happens... lets hope for the best.

ok well with new parts had the fuel pressure adjusted today at 44 with line off. and its still back firing bad. from 2500 to 3500 rpms. bout to go get new spark plugs and possible wires i am going to ohm them out and see how good they are.

Does any body know what would cause this much backfiring?

I had new plugs in it before and still had the same probem so im pretty sure that new plugs wont help much if any.
 
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