need aftermarket headunit wire help please

[da kang3]

i am having trouble installing my aftermarket headunit. i have been to just about every electronics store today and no one sells the adapter piece that i need to no hack up my headunit wires, so that left me with no choice but to spice them. but i can only find the wires for the speakers, i cant find the ones for the power, ground, and whatever else i need besides the front and rear speakers. could someone please help me find out which wires to use. and i've already used the search button to no avail.

 

[timm98gst]

do you have an autozone, advance auto parts, best buy, or walmart near you?

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wiring-gen2wir.html

Wiring Diagram for 1995+ DSMs
Always check the polarity of wires before tapping into them, as the following table may be incorrect for some wires.

Vehicle Wire Wire Color Wire Location or Note
Constant 12 Volts White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 12 Volts Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/Red Ignition Switch Harness
Parking Lamp Green/White (+) at relay or fuse block (#5)
Dome Light Red/Green (-) Driv pin switch or dome light
Trunk pin switch Red/White (-) Luggage compartment light or switch
Trunk release N/A (must add actuator)
Radiator Fan White/Black and
White/Blue (+) Radiator fan
Power antenna ?? (+) Radio
OEM Alarm Arm Green/Yellow (-) Driver's kick panel
OEM Alarm Disarm Green/White, Brn/White, Brn/Blk (-) Either kick panel
Tie to ground to permanently disable the alarm
OEM horn Green/Black, Green/Red (-) Steering column harness
Headlights Red (-) Headlight switch
Ign Key Warning Green/Yellow (-) (with key out) Steering column harness

Door Lock Brown/White **at relays on relay block to left of steering column - 3 wire neg (these are negative trigger wires)**
Unlock driver door only - Blue/Red in driv kick panel
Door Unlock Brown

Window Driver UP Green/Red Main switch (these need relays to apply 12V to the respective wire to move the window up or down)
Window Driver DOWN Green/Blue
Window Pass UP Brown/Yel
Window Pass DOWN Green/Yell

Ignition #2 Blue/Black Ignition Switch Harness (heater/AC)
Accessory Blue Ignition Switch Harness (wiper/radio)

Tach signal White Pin 6 at 18pin connector behind driver's side of console Note #446
Reverse Light Red/Blue (+) at switch on brake pedal bracket

Neutral Safety Brown/Red At switch on transaxle
Brake Light Green (+) switch on brake pedal bracket

Driver front speaker White/Blue (+)
Black/Blue (-) Color for dash speakers - driv and pass and door speakers are: (+) Black/White, (-) Black
Pass front speaker White/Red (+)
Black/Red (-)
Driver Rear speaker Yellow/Blue (+)
Gray/Blue (-)
Pass Rear speaker Yellow/Red (+)
Gray/Red (-)
Notes:
446 Can also be found at tach filter on power transistor.
Turbo has tach test connector on passenger firewall.
Also at Pin #8 on ECU in non-turbo engine control module
on driver wheelwell.

 

[da kang3]

yea i have all of those stores, and i went to all of them, and also circuit city, that's like the only one that u didnt list that i went to. i live in fort hood, this biggest military post in the us, but somehow it seems to be the smallest town in the world. we have like a million mcdonald's and walmarts, but nothing good.

i need to know which wire to put my illum. wire to, my mute wire to, my power wire to, my ground wire, and whatever other wire i may have forgotten. thanks

 

[Attack Eagle]

FYI it's a universal plug. only the colors vary between the mitsu and many other brands. Get a import universal plug, and use a wire tester (multi meter) to find them.

or use a multimeter to find the ones on your hacked harness.

 

[Crazyjoker77]

oh ya just a warning if your car came with the infinity stereo system(amp under the passenger seat) it makes the install much more diffficult because you have to either have to run new speaker wire from the deck to the speakers or run some wires from the deck to under the passenger seat and splice into the out side of the amp wiring harness. otherwise you are gonna end up blowing the internal amp on your head unit like i did.

 

[Defiant]

Wal*Mart usually has them, or eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-BHA7001-Mit...ryZ32812QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[da kang3]

oh ya just a warning if your car came with the infinity stereo system(amp under the passenger seat) it makes the install much more diffficult because you have to either have to run new speaker wire from the deck to the speakers or run some wires from the deck to under the passenger seat and splice into the out side of the amp wiring harness. otherwise you are gonna end up blowing the internal amp on your head unit like i did.

would i still have to run new wires or splice the outside ones of the stock amp under the passenger seat if im installing my own aftermarket amp and sub as well? i do have the infinity system but i had my amp and sub installed before on the stock headunit before i had the motor swap and had no problems like frying it or what not, is it different with an aftermarket headunit? i guess what im asking is can't i just splice the wires from the old connection to the new wire connection for my headunit, and hook up my amp and sub to the rca connections already provided on my headunit. my new headunit is a kenwood by the way

 

[Jackson]

pay the 20 bucks and buy the wiring harness. Its not worth the hassle to clip your stock wiring.

 

[Fayt]

Illumination wire would be the same as the cigarrette wire, should be blue.
Power will go to a wire that turns on ONLY when the car is on such as interior lights.
Ground will go to any metal piece on the car.
Battery (yellow) will splice into a red wire. Check for a wire that is on regardless of the car being on or not.

I'll get my car back tomorrow and be putting my stereo back in (minor fuse problem/pocket problem) and I'll tell you exactly what wires need to be spliced.

O yea, and about that wiring harness, the one for a 2g w/infinity stereo is about $90 because it is long (to go from under the car seat to the headunit) and having to bypass the amp. Its not that hard to wire it yourself.

would i still have to run new wires or splice the outside ones of the stock amp under the passenger seat if im installing my own aftermarket amp and sub as well? i do have the infinity system but i had my amp and sub installed before on the stock headunit before i had the motor swap and had no problems like frying it or what not, is it different with an aftermarket headunit? i guess what im asking is can't i just splice the wires from the old connection to the new wire connection for my headunit, and hook up my amp and sub to the rca connections already provided on my headunit. my new headunit is a kenwood by the way

If you plan on amping your speakers, thats a whole different story. You would run the wires to the amp, then out to the speakers. But, if you are installing an amp for a sub, you just run the RCA's (or splice rear speakers) and the blue w/white wire to the amp. Blue w/white to remote, RCA's to input, then wire the subs up. With the stock system, they are just running off the rear feed and then filtered. RCA's from an aftermarket headunit will provide a louder, more crisp sound. I'd just run the RCA's/new connection to be sure. Its an extra what, 30 minutes?

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

Hey, go to circuit city, they should have a METRA mitsubishi harness for your year, then get a SMART harness for your specific head unit...it should all clip in. If they dont have it in stock, they will get it for you for no extra charge. I work in the install bay in a circuit city, send me 10 bucks and ill get you both harnesses, please dont splice into your harness...

 

[jerahoe]

just go to walmart it is the cheapest place and get a wire kit. it hooks right to the factory wires and you splice those wires with the head unit. if you splice those wires to the headunit without a wire kit you will and could short out your whole system.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

just go to walmart it is the cheapest place and get a wire kit. it hooks right to the factory wires and you splice those wires with the head unit. if you splice those wires to the headunit without a wire kit you will and could short out your whole system.

Ummm no. How do you think install places get head units in when they dont have the right harnesses, its called hard wire. And hardwire you really cant short out your system unless you do something stupid. Its called a multimeter, find your posititive accessory wire, constant, ground, then the rest are speaker wires which I suggest using a 9volt battery, pop em to make sure your hooking themn up right, rememr the aftermarket wires with the headunit are

Yellow-Constant
Black- Ground
Red- Power(accessory)
Orange- Dimmer (do not use)
Blue- Remote turn on
Blue/White or could also be blue- Power Antenna
White and white/black- Front Driver speaker
Grey and grey/black- Front Passenger speaker
Green and green/black- Rear Driver speaker
Purple and purple/black- Rear Passenger speaker

However please use the harnesses, if you get the smart harness and mettra harness like I said, you WILL NOT HAVE TO SPLICE EVEN ONE WIRE!! NO SPLICING, just connecting harnesses.

 

[asexton6969]

When I bought my car the previous owner had ripped the cd player out before it was repossessed. When he did this, he cut all the wires off right at the harness. I think he left like one or two still connected. I was wondering what the stock wires are. There are so many and I can't seem to find a wiring diagram to point out what color is what? Anybody know at all?

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

Driver front speaker White/Blue (+)
Black/Blue (-) Color for dash speakers - driv and pass and door speakers are: (+) Black/White, (-) Black
Pass front speaker White/Red (+)
Black/Red (-)
Driver Rear speaker Yellow/Blue (+)
Gray/Blue (-)
Pass Rear speaker Yellow/Red (+)
Gray/Red (-)

The only other needed ones are constant, switched power, and ground. Easy enough to figure out with a multimeter...

 

[Defiant]

Just like in Post #2. Whoa.