Need advice fixing small things.

[Junfan]

Out of the blue yesterday this car starts to run terrible. Not breaking no boost issues but for the first time in a while I pressed the clutch in and it died. I had to then get my DSM foot on for a bit then it stopped again. I don't get it has to be something in the following list or a combination there of. Understand this car will drive great has some power although not really beating on it yet. I thought I had that all worked out. So I sitting around stewing over this when many things occurred to me. So I need to start but want to make sure on order I should do them in as well as making sure I did not miss anything.

I am going to test the ISC because this car did bounce around at times since I got it so maybe it is bad. Easy test with a volt meter.

I am going to adjust the TPS to .6 like I should have this weekend and make sure it is reading correct in my SAFC2. Another volt meter thing but will change out some stainless bolts at the same time as well as shaft seals.

I want to get the idle back to factory. I see that the best way is to unplug the ISC and set to 850+-50. What would be the best way to get this correct given an SAFC2? My experience so far has been I can make it idle there using fuels trims on the AFC as well. For example I found my BISS screw almost all the way out. I then was not sure what to do. 6bolt2g (Jeremy) took it in a bit and we used fuel to finish getting it to idle. I still think it may be off. I think I am going to just ground the ignition timing adjustment plug, adjust it and go from there as a starting point.

The maf was used and I have no idea how many times it may have been screwed in and out. How do I go about putting this back to the way it was originally? Not finding much on vfaq or searching sites.

I just feel like if I get these small things adjusted and tweaked but it is a great learning process to understand how the smallest things affect the overall car.

On last thing of note. I am going to recirc the BOV. I guess I vented it because when I started getting into this last year I was under the impression this was the thing to do. What I think now is I am on an SAFC2 and would rather bring that metered air back into the system.

Thanks for looking and I am hoping this goes here but maybe it belonged in turbo tech area. Sorry if it did.

Since this morning I jumped on vfaq and printed the directions to check ISC and TPS. I will do that tomorrow. My son's Impreza needed a brake job so that took most of the evening.

I also printed the VFAQ on idle adjustment yesterday and am doing that today as well by ground the timing adjust outside the car and the pin on the ODB cable on the inside. I am hoping when this is all done the car runs like a champ. I will report back what I find and the results as I get these fixed.

 

[Junfan]

Well, the ISC measured 0 ohms from 1-2 pins, 2-3 30 ohms, 4-5 was 0 ohms and 5-6 was 30 ohms. It appears I have solved 1 problem just to find a replacement.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yep just find another i may have one check my classifieds or pm me.

 

[LiquidX]

Classifieds would be easier, however you can get one from RockAuto for around $70. I've been running one for over a year without issues. If it helps, the one I received even had the Mitsubishi symbol printed on it.

 

[Junfan]

My real question is that I have been working on cars since last March. Am I missing anything? What else would you check? I also just redid my shaft seals and then put it back together and set the TPS to .6 when closed and 5k ohms then made sure the open was .6 ohms and the same 5k at wot.

Well, I just got in and got everything back together. I then built a couple little grounding cables to reset the BISS as per the VFAQ. I just want to get this car to idle decent at maybe 850 considering I have 264/272 cams. I will try to complete that in the AM as well as a computer reset. I guess then I will warm it up and set the idle.

I am hoping at that point to have some stability and get a few decent evoscan logs out of the car to see what is up. I did notice that my SAFC2 is reading correct for my throttle position. It was always a little off before at the car was set somewhere around .9 volts as the VFAQ said. I followed the actual shop manual as it stated WOT should be 5k ohms.

Now if my VRSF front mount will just get here I will then replace all my vacuum/boost hoses and make sure everything is sealed up nice and tight and will hold 25 to 30 pounds.

 

[steve]

Sounds like your old ISC had two shorted coils, those will blow the drivers in the ECU so you'll need to have them checked before a new ISC will help/work.

The TPS voltage at idle needs to be 0.48v to 0.52v unless your running DSMLink, which likes 0.63v. Volts not ohms. You can see the voltage on the SAFC looking at the sensor check screen.

 

[Junfan]

I see that and noticed that in the shop manual too. So what I am seeing with .9 in the VFAQ, .6 in many logs but the book shows .48 to .52 if I recall correctly just like you said. I am not running DSM link so you think I should reset my TPS to these values? Easily done.

I did notice my Karman values bouncing at idle between 40hz and up to like 70hz. I have two ECUs that came with the car. I will head outside soon and get the part numbers. I have printer the part numbers from the VFAQ and will cross reference what I find. I am thinking one is an AWD auto and the other was a FWD manual when I looked at this last time. I am thinking it is time to find a nice AWD manual ECU that is socketed and go from there.

I was a little pissed off last night with this thing. I have been trying so hard to learn and get it running better then was told just get my sensors set and move on. Who cares about BISS and idle since you have cams. You will not have a stock idle.

This makes sense but I just want this car to run well generally speaking without DSM foot in my DD. If this was a racecar and I had to DSM foot when I push in the clutch so be it. This POS is testing my patience but I think making it worse then feeling like a dumbass for trying to fix a car so far from stock using stock settings might not make sense. I am just frustrated and want my stuff to work at the moment. I am so close and feel like I am a couple small tweaks away form this being where I want it.

I did confirm the following.

MD165531 is Turbo AWD Federal Auto 6/90-6/92

MD166260 is Turbo FWD Federal Manual 6/90-6/92

 

[steve]

I see that and noticed that in the shop manual too. So what I am seeing with .9 in the VFAQ, .6 in many logs but the book shows .48 to .52 if I recall correctly just like you said. I am not running DSM link so you think I should reset my TPS to these values? Easily done.

Your confusing voltages and resistances. The VFAQ talks about setting the TPS by resistance which as they describe is incorrect. You would have to measure both the total TPS resistance which can vary from 4.5k to 6.5k ohms and the sensor voltage across the TPS to calculate the correct resistance to get an output voltage of 0.48 to 0.52 volts using the formula for a voltage divider.

DSMLink and the FSM talk about output voltage as seen at the ECU and which you can see on a SAFC using the sensor check screen or on a datalogger as either 10% (0.5v) or the actual voltage depending on the setting.

 

[Junfan]

Thank you Steve I got that figured out and resolved today. 6bolt2g (Jeremy) came over today and we messed with a few things. I had/have many small issues playing into the overall problems. First, I started getting a CEL for temp sensor. Well the end was frayed off. Fixed and all set.

We then confirmed a bad ECU. The bad coils appear to have damaged the ECU as was suggested. So with the TPS set and ISC confirmed good we had idle surge. On a hunch of a bad ECU I put the auto ECU I had in the car. This corrected the idle surge instantly. I know this is not right but at least it will cycle the ISC correctly. The caps do not look bad nor do I have a burnt smell. This may well be the donor ECU that I do ECMlink on.

Anyhow, we were still having issues with the car idling fine and then dying with the clutch in. We then reset the position of the throttle close sensor slightly and ensured the right tension was on the throttle cable. At this point we were good. Another drive and it died again and would not idle at all. When I got the car the TB had RTV filling the little channels down to the FIAV and I am not sure who did it. I cleaned it out. It appeared to be a half-ass attempt at blocking it off. I suspect there is still some there and the FIAV is just not working right. Time for the classifieds and known good TB.

 

[Junfan]

I found out a couple things. First, the FIAV was confirmed not working and I did confirm that there was RTV put in there as a fix to function as an FIAV blockoff. I will get a new TB and get this resolved. I also happened to get my hands on an Eprom ECU. Thanks Jake you are the man. Love your new truck.

I wonder how badly this would affect my car in Michigan during the winter.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/320951-fiav-adjustment-disable.html