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N/T mods

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Definately go cheaper with the intake, they all do the same thing anyways. the Injen sounds like the way to go. As far as doing the work yourself, I started out knowing nothing when I bought my first car and now I never take my car to the mechanic, helped to have a friend who's a trucker and does all his own repairs on the semi's though, Trucking mechanics can fix anything haha. Anyways, I have a hard enough time in the snow with my non turbo, I wouldn't personally lower my own. That and if you live where there are rough roads you'll be smacking that front bumper cover and cracking it if you lower it. Just my .02 since I live with rough roads and snow in northern MI. Have fun with your car though I absolutely loved my non turbo. She's going to a new home today though. Sad times
 
Ebay intake all the way. Its a metal pipe, there is no difference between Injen or Ebay. The only difference is the air filter. Some ebay kits come with cheap air filters, which you could just replace with a better one for cheaper than a injen kits going to cost. I've bought 5 CAI's off ebay for various cars. Only one has come with a cheap air filter.
 
Alright, I'll check ebay. By the way, I debadged my GS today. I took off the "Mitsubishi" and "GS" lettering on the the back, I painted the taillights center piece, and I took off the front emblem. I love the debadged look. I'll post some pics in my gallery once I get it all put back together (the center piece is still drying).
 
My personal favorite for headers, are DC sport headers 4-2-1 design (good for low end) (4-1 design is good for top end). They did wonders for my low end torque, however I'm sure there are a lot of cheaper products. Take a look at shops like prostreetonline, they have a lot of good stuff for our cars, and cardomain has a lot of cheap prices too.
But its all gotta be cost effective.

On another note, If I were you I'd go against lowering your car for now, until you see how you like your new rims and tires. And if you do decide to drop your car with the snow around, I'd suggest a full coilover kit (shock and spring come as one) so you get the awesome ride, and the ability to adjust the height as weather permits. A lot more expensive. ($700+)
 
honestly, I don't know anyone with coil-overs who has ever adjusted their ride height after they get it where the like it. Coil-overs suck... I know, I have them.
 
i have cheap ebay coilovers.(50 bucks) and the are the worst mod i have done to my car. i moved to MO where the roads suck and i bounce all over the place. The car looks sick lowered though. :thumb:
 
I'm at work right now, so I only have a few pics to post. You can see how she sits with 16's and 18's. I drive around all winter long with no problems from her being lowered...and let me tell ya, winter is no joke up here ;) I'm talkin -50 degrees or lower, and almost 8 months of snow (september to april) OMG I love my full Tokico suspension, well worth a mere $500. As they've said for the intake, mandrel bent piping is mandrel bent piping. I have an Injen, and it's no different than an ebay intake (excluding filter). As for the header, I really like my Tsudo 4-1. As said already though, you'll get more low-end power if you go 4-2-1. Oh yeah, can't forget about the exhaust. I am also very impressed the Tsudo catback. :thumb:
EDIT: don't mind those tezzas LOL! they no longer see the light of day ROFL
Eh, I guess I'm done babbling for now :spam:
 

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I guess I should rephrase. Cheap coil overs suck. If you go get a set of Tein Full Coils, they are going to rock. But for a daily driver or street car, a good set of drop springs gets my vote. Eibach, H&R, and Tein are just a few really good ones.
 
Yes stay away from ebay coilovers, OR ANY COILOVER THAT DOESN'T COME WITH THE SHOCK ASSEMBLY AS WELL.

The spring rate of the spring doesn't adjust right after lowering it compared to the shocks.

So here are ur options, and imo, the only options when it comes to lowering
1) Spring/Shock combo
2) Full Coilover suspension (ie. tanabe sustec's and Tien's)
 
Thanks for the explanation on the coilovers. I didn't realize you guys were talking about ebay types. Anyways even though I said I disliked the idea of lowering the car before due to roads and winter, it does look really good. And as long as you keep the driveway plowed hey why not go for it if you have the extra cash. Just make sure you get a good setup either way you go.
 
Yeah, my baby had stock blown shocks and some cheap ass coilovers (previous owner still found reason to cut them WTF ), and was literally slammed to the ground even lower than she is now OMG So, when I told myself it was suspension time, I decided it was either adjustable shocks w/springs combo, or full Tein coilover setup with edfc. The tein was definitely out of my price range, so I opted with the Tokico kit and haven't looked back since :D
 
as for exaust i bought a tenzo-r muffler and had it welded to the exsiting piping, sounded awesome. i have a video if anyone was interested. if your money tight like i was then its pretty sweet. cost me around $100 installed and everything. didnt even sound ricer. huh what do i know LOL :dsm:
 
Ok, so I ordered a B & M short throw, I'm gonna order an Apexi N1 cat-back exhaust and an ebay CAI. I'm thinking about also getting a header. If I get these mods will I be able to tell a difference in my car, or will it basically just sound different?
 
You should also go ahead and get yourself an underdrive crank pulley :thumb:

With I/H/E and a pulley, you'll definitely feel, and not just hear the naturally aspirated power :rocks:
 
Alright, hopefully I will order all of these mods here soon. I have read on here that you need to remove the timing belt in order to install the pulley, but I've also heard that you don't have to, which is true?

I think I said this before but I have no experience, or real knowledge of installing mods on a car, but I really want to get started and do my mods myself. Do you think I could install all of these by myself? I am thinking about asking the mechanic that my mom uses for her Saab if I could pay him to let my use his lift and tools and have him help me out if need be, but if they aren't that difficult to do, I will try by myself first.

So, seriously like do I have to do anything besides unbolting something and bolting the new piece back in place for any of these mods?

Thanks.
 
you don't need to remove the timing belt while installing the UDP, however, it might make for a good time to change the timing belt if you haven't done it recently already. Its a bugger to remove the old one and install the new one though. Make sure you have a good three jaw puller, those cheap ones don't work for this job at all. I bent two of the cheap ones before I borrowed a good one from a mechanic friend of mine.
 
Ok, I just had my timing belt replaced about 5k miles ago, so I'm good for quite awhile.

Another question I forgot to ask about. I've read on this website that there are two different types of header. A 4-2-1 style header and a 4-1 style. The 4-2-1 is better for low end and the 4-1 is better for top end, correct? I was thinking I'd probably want the 4-2-1 style, is that what you would recommened? Someone suggested the DC brand header, but said it was expensive. How much about would it cost and what are some other alternatives?
 
Well the DC sport ceramic headers are awesome in my opinon. 4-2-1 was amazing in my car, and the torque and get up I had my car was ridiculous.
Price is about $300 shipped brand new, but check the classifieds and ebay, because when I sold mine, I sold it for $150. www.prostreetonline.com is where I purchased mine from, but other places might have it cheaper, I bought mine back in setember of 2004.

The Tusdo stainless steel headers remind me of the greddy headers and are a good bang for your buck deal, especially if your going for the stainless steel look.
 
bSQUAREd said:
Ok, I just had my timing belt replaced about 5k miles ago, so I'm good for quite awhile.

Another question I forgot to ask about. I've read on this website that there are two different types of header. A 4-2-1 style header and a 4-1 style. The 4-2-1 is better for low end and the 4-1 is better for top end, correct? I was thinking I'd probably want the 4-2-1 style, is that what you would recommened? Someone suggested the DC brand header, but said it was expensive. How much about would it cost and what are some other alternatives?

definitely do the work yourself, intake is a breeze, exhaust may be a little trickier for you but just buy some jack stands and a creeper and some basic hand tools and you can do almost any of the needed work to your car.

I had the Tsudo SS header. it was ok... well it was a header, they dont do much to begin with. didnt notice any power difference with mine, just sound. same with my intake... and exhaust... the UDP gave me some power :thumb: and a belt squeeking issue that i fought with for over a year and just fixed permanently last week :coy:
 
Yeah, I really want to do everything myself. Thats one reason I chose to mod my GS instead of buying a GSX, so I can learn how to do some mods and have fun doing so. Are the headers and UDP very hard to install? Also, I'm taking a Auto mechanic class at the local tech college, but it counts as high school credits (I'm gonna be a senior next year). I have it first and second quarter, so I'll have it starting here pretty soon. I was thinking about hoilding off on ordering my mods until I have the class, and then hopefully I could work on the car when ever I had a chance in the class.
 
GSGoinFast said:
the UDP gave me some power :thumb: and a belt squeeking issue that i fought with for over a year and just fixed permanently last week :coy:

OMG it decided to pick the same fight with me... was it just adjusting the tensioners that got it to stop? I'm tired of hearing it and getting the WTF look from people
 
goalieman24 said:
OMG it decided to pick the same fight with me... was it just adjusting the tensioners that got it to stop? I'm tired of hearing it and getting the WTF look from people

the problem i had was i would forget to re-tighten the belts a couple days after i put them on... then i would start to hear squeeking, remember and try and tighten them but it would be too late... well this time i remembered and i dont have squeeking anymore :D
 
Hey guys, just an update: I installed my B & M Short Throw tonight, and wow, the car shifts so much nicer now. Next up on my mod list is a CAI. Do you guys think the CAI is easier, harder, or about the same to install as the short throw?
 
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