n/t 6 bolt and t 6 bolt

[MMS40]

i bought my car with a spun bearing and have posted on here a few times what i should do,
followed everyones advise and bought another 6 bolt for 150, but its an n/t. .
i was gonna use this for a donor motor, but to make sure im correct on this the pistons are the only difference on the internals right when it comes to the block?

my cam on my motor has a nice little scratch on it, i was considering to switch the cams, but common sense would tell me there prob different .. . correct?

and on the n/t the following is different correct? t.b, intake manifold.

help would be greatly appreciated

 

[black_gst]

the nt block does not have oil squiters besides that the pistons are different and i think the cams are different also.

everything else is the same.. i used a nt block in my 6 bolt build

 

[MMS40]

SWEET,
so your saying the intake mainfold is the same?

 

[black_gst]

SWEET,
so your saying the intake mainfold is the same?

as for the intake mani and TB im not sure

 

[MMS40]

o okay man thanks

 

[dallu22]

Cams are different, and no oil squirters, the throttle body and intake manifold are the same and the pistons are 8.5:1 instead of 7.8:1. I used a N/T block in my 95GST and no problems

 

[MMS40]

thanks guys!

 

[big_d]

The throttle bodies are not the same. The n/t uses a similar bore and is the preferred of all stock throttle bodies for our cars. It does not require a restrictive throttle body elbow like turbo throttle bodies use.

http://www.throttlebodys.com/DSMTBs.htm

 

[MMS40]

The throttle bodies are not the same. The n/t uses a similar bore and is the preferred of all stock throttle bodies for our cars. It does not require a restrictive throttle body elbow like turbo throttle bodies use.

DSM THrottle Bodys

so are you saying to run my n/t?

 

[brownfinger]

Intake manifold is different: Nipple for BOV hose. TB needs modification to be used: Throttle shaft seals. Water pipe, oil filter housing, other little things. Don't run much more than stock boost on NT pistons, and just take all those other parts off your old engine. Only the exhaust cam is any different, unless the donor engine came from an auto car, but I'd have to look that one up.

 

[4g63owns]

Some people also use the n/t block because failure of the oil squirters will be bad news bears for your bottom end. The n/t does not have these oil squirters.

 

[brownfinger]

Also, you need to use the injectors and FPR from your old engine. I'd just grab the whole fuel rail. And the flywheel and clutch. And the knock sensor.

Just make a list, and check 'em off while both engines are out.

 

[black_dsm_90gsx]

just transfer evrything from your old motor to the n/t block. You can use the n/t pistons, they can hold boost very good. I'm running a n/t block, hx35 with 31 psi and no problems.

 

[4g63owns]

^^ your running 30 psi on n/t internals?

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

just transfer evrything from your old motor to the n/t block. You can use the n/t pistons, they can hold boost very good. I'm running a n/t block, hx35 with 31 psi and no problems.

Im not gonna say you cant use n/t pistons, but the ringlands are higher on the n/t pistons and are weaker. Any amount of knock and you will start to "break" rings. But just be careful if you do use the complete n/t block.

 

[e85_4g63]

There is a lot of mixed posts here. I have worked on every flavor of 1g. I can tell you that the differences from the 4g63 nt to the turbo are as follows:

Turbo is 7.8:1 compression, non turbo is 9.0:1
The non turbo pistons have a smaller ring land for the 1st compression ring
The non turbo intake manifolds DO NOT have the extra nipple for the BOV
The non turbo T/B has shaft seals that DO NOT have the metal ring in them where turbo T/B's do
The non turbo cams are different on the exhaust side
The non turbo intake cam is different with the car is auto
The non turbo block DOES NOT have the oil squirters
The non turbo block DOES NOT have a knock sensor, and the location for one to thread in is different
The non turbo uses smaller 240cc (turbo injectors are 450cc) HIGH IMP. injectors
The non turbo DOES NOT hold up to boost for long above the 8 psi range ( I saw someone say they're running 30+ psi... I'm not calling you a liar, I'm just giving my experience with the cars that I've converted from 4g63 non turbo to turbo).
The non turbo cylinder heads have the oil tap for the turbo feed blocked off, but it is there and functional once the plug (17mm bolt) is removed.
The exhaust manifolds are obviously different
The non turbo oil filter housing *** supposidly *** has a higher pressure spring in it, I have not personally tested this yet though.
The non turbo oil pan DOES NOT have the oil return in the pan (another obvious difference)
1990 cams are the worst, turbo, auto, non turbo, or whatever, they just suck

I'm sure there are other differences but I'm tired and can't remember them right now.

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

^^ your running 30 psi on n/t internals?

Only difference is the pistons, rods are the same and so is the crank, you just got to be careful(er).

 

[MMS40]

alright i think u guys are confused a bit,
i plan on runnning my old block and just swithchin over the crand and rods

 

[brownfinger]

I still think it would be less work to use the entire NT longblock and just swap over the whole IM setup. See if you can get it off with the rail & TB still on it. Then swap the oil filter housing, oil pan, knock-sensor, & water pipe. Sounds easier than the crank and pistons. If you're rebuilding the whole engine, why not find turbo pistons? Sort of defeats the purpose of having bought a whole, running engine.

 

[MMS40]

The head needed milled on it i know that cheap but still,
id have to take it all apart anyways to swap the pistons. . So why not just use my block and not have to swap any of the sensors, ext.?

 

[e85_4g63]

I don't think you have a full understanding of the engine in your car. You cannot simply just take out parts from one block and stuff them inside another.. You need to check PTW (piston to wall) clearance and ring end gaps. Things must be clean and installed the right way. Bearing clearances need to be plastic gauged (checked). Etc. Etc. There is more to it then simply taking parts from one block to the next.

 

[MMS40]

I don't think you have a full understanding of the engine in your car. You cannot simply just take out parts from one block and stuff them inside another.. You need to check PTW (piston to wall) clearance and ring end gaps. Things must be clean and installed the right way. Bearing clearances need to be plastic gauged (checked). Etc. Etc. There is more to it then simply taking parts from one block to the next.

okay all is understandable and im not a professional by any means,
but im just swapping the crank and a rod or two, why would the PTW matter if im using the pistons that were orginally in that motor?
i can fully understand the plastic gauge thou

 

[black_dsm_90gsx]

^^ your running 30 psi on n/t internals?

I also read that no more than 8psi on the n/t block, with the proper mods and an awsome tune you can make this engine work. I started with a 14b then moved up to a evo3 16g, and now I'm rocking a hx35. The block that I'm using is from a hyundai sonata(G4CP).