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My Easy Evo 8 MAF Conversion (How-To With Pictures!)

I did this swap a few weeks ago to coincide with my Evo 8 ECU swap, so I thought I would share and include a general how to. Sorry for the crappy pictures, I'm using my old cell phone because I couldn't find my real camera, but they should be good enough to get the job done.

First off, why would you want to do this? The long and short of it is that the Evo MAF can read more airflow, and has more resolution for that airflow. This means: more accurate information to the ECU and therefore better tuning potential. It doesn't particularly flow more air, it merely gives better resolution and doesn't become saturated near as quickly. As per the ECMLink Wiki, numbers-wise the MAFs we use top out at:

MAF______Freq limit__Volumetric limit_____Mass limit
1G DSM___2000hz___180 lps (380 cfm)____210 gm/sec (28 lb/min)
2G DSM___2700hz___320 lps (680 cfm)____375 gm/sec (50 lb/min)
EVO8_____3000hz___420 lps (890 cfm____500 gm/sec (66 lb/min)

That's a lot of extra breathing room, and it has better resolution within that range. Really there's no downside to the Evo MAF; making it a great upgrade in my book.

What you'll need for the swap:

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Obviously you'll need an Evo 8 MAF (suposedly the 3G and Montero MAFs are the same and are commonly used in the 3000GT/Stealth forums) and a MAF adapter to do the swap. You'll also need a 3x3 rubber coupler (about $6 at Lowe's in the plumbing section; pick up the stuff to make a Boost Leak Tester (video) while you're at it :), some sand paper, a screwdriver (for the hose clamps), a cutting tool (a good knife, or hardcore scissors), a pen/pencil, and a 10mm wrench (to take the MAF apart).

You have 3 options for the MAF adapter: Buy one from Iceman69510 on for $37 shipped (1g and 2g available); Buy one from Jesters Deadd on for $35 shipped (2g only); or Hack your stock wiring and swap a 3G MAF plug (it's a direct wire swap for 2g, the same order as the stock plug 1-1 2-2 3-3 etc.). I don't personally advise hacking the stock wiring, as any extra resistance you add can affect your readings. Iceman and Jester make these cables on a per order basis PM them on their respective forums to inquire about purchasing.

Finally the How-To! Remove your stock MAF and intake hose by un-clipping the upper air box, removing the hoses for the Evap/crankcase vent, and then removing the hose clamps on the turbo inlet as well as the BOV recirculation tube.

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We'll work on the coupler adapter first. Seperate your MAF/upper airbox from the turbo inlet hose by removing the hose clamp. Take the hose clamps off your new 3x3 coupler and cut off the indented section the clamp sits in (we want a smooth surface for a good seal).

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Push the now-flat section into your intake hose (it will take a little finagling) so that it is even and straight along the flat surface of the intake hose. Use a pen/pencil to mark the outside edge so you can cut off a piece that will sit flush inside the intake hose. Cut the piece off, and it should sit flush in the intake like this:

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Two things need to be done to this piece to get a good seal, first take your sandpaper and sand off the raised letters on your new coupler-adapter, and then trim the coupler back so that it sits snuggly behind the lip of the MAF when it's seated inside the intake hose (you want it to seal on the flat part fo the MAF, not the lip). Like such:

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It sounds a little complicated in writing, but it's real simple when you're doing it. You'll end up with a coupler that looks like this:

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Now that we have a nice fit, it's time to swap the Evo Maf onto the stock box. Remove the four nuts holding your stock MAF on the stock upper airbox and note the MAFs orientation.

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You may have to hold the back flats of the bolts with pliers to keep them from spinning if your box is in poor condition.

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Swap the Evo MAF onto the stock box in the same orientation as the stock MAF, it uses the same seal and is the same shape. Tighten the nuts up, and it should look just like the stock assembly:

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(Pay no attention to my Stealth blending in the background :D)

If you're going to hack up the stock MAF plug to swap a 3G MAF plug do so now; if you're using an adapter continue to the next paragraph on reassembly.

The swap for the MAF plug is very straight-forward: align the two plugs, clip facing up, then cut and solder the wires one by one in the same order they are on the stock pug onto the new 3G plug i.e. wire 1 on stock plug to wire 1 on 3G plug, wire 2 on stock plug to wire 2 on 3G plug, etc. Heat shrink is a must! You do not want water getting into this connection!

(A donated picture of a hacked plug would be appreciated ;)

Reassemble the stock intake hose assembly and put the intake back in the reverse of how it came out. It may fight you a little as the Evo MAF is slightly shorter than the stocker and the hose has gotten pretty accustomed to how it previously sat in there. After it's all clamped back together pull out your MAF adapter. I used one from Iceman (because I didn't know Jester was making them :coy:) and it looks like this:

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The adapter from Iceman was very well-made, and plugs right in. The only downside is that on the 2g end these don't lock on, and aren't sealed. I wrapped mine in a good amount of electrical tape to keep it together and water-tight. The 3g end is sealed and clips like the stock plug. The whole thing looks completely stock:

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Congratulations you now have an Evo MAF installed in your DSM! If you're like me and running an Evo 8 ECU, the stock MAF settings will work great! ECMLink owners have the proper scalings available in the ECMLink forums (if someone can post it, I'll add it) and those running Ceddymods can adjust their MAF scaling for the Evo MAF in ECUFlash (if someone has these settings I'll gladly add it). Thank you for reading, and I hope you found this How-To useful!

The Man Behind The Curtain: The idea of using the 3x3 coupler was founded by Jesters Deadd for use on the 3000GT/Stealth platform; however, since our MAF is near identical it works just as well. He's the man with the plan, and sells the cables to make it work! Props to you good Sir!
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