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Rabbi

15+ Year Contributor
174
1
Mar 15, 2004
Muskegon, Michigan
im going to be building up my 7 bolt, How does the following list look? And what kind of HP can i expect out of this shortblock?



Eagle H Beam Rods
Wiseco 9.0 Pistons
Eagle Crank (anyone know what size i will need?)
ACL Bearings
ARP Bolts all around
Evo 3 Turbo & Install Kit
Cometic Head Gasket
Jackson Auto Machine Full Gasket Kit
2G Rebuilt Head
2g Intake & Exhaust Manifolds
1G Throttle Body
1G Bov
Balance Shaft Removal Kit
New Oil & Water Pumps
New Timing Components
Apexi SAFC2
Venom MBC
Gloshift Boost Gauge & Pod
PTE 780CC Injectors
AEM Fuel Rail
 
The short block will support 600 hp. But you won't get that on the stock head and intake manifold. The intake manifold will need to be port matched to the 1g tb. The fuel rail is not needed but does look nicer than the stock unit. Before you buy the SAFC I would check to see if you have a E-prom ECU. If you do save up and get DSM Link and 1000cc injectors.
 
get skat rods, same h-beam design and hp capacity as eagles but they have extra oiling provisions like stock (well i shouldnt say extra when it comes stock, eagle just doesnt come with em.)
Get a fidanza flywheel in there as well. You will like the extra lightness and faster revs from your roatating assembly.
What clutch do you plan on running?
What are you building the motor for? what kind of driving/racing?
 
First off...most people are gonna tell you that if you are going to even remove your 7 bolt in the first place then just put in a 6bolt but that's your decision..... I'd just suggest that if you are gonna go all out with this thing you might as well find a 4G64 or a 6 bolt. They aren't that much. In fact I have a spare 6 bolt sitting at the house. Here are my thoughts on the other items....


Eagle H Beam Rods----------------------Depending on your budget
Eagle Crank (anyone know what size i will need?)--------Depends on if you wanna go for a 2.3
2G Rebuilt Head- Get it ported while you are at it
2g Intake & Exhaust Manifolds----------Get rid of that garbage 2g manifold
Apexi SAFC2
Venom MBC---------Didnt know they made MBCs but if the Joe MBC is cheaper then go with that. Save money for more parts
PTE 780CC Injectors- Wont play well with SAFC2
AEM Fuel Rail- 2G runs fine but if you are gonna get an aftermarket FPR (which you should look into) then it'll do.
 
Here is what I would go with. Most of your items are looking go and for future power you are on the right track.


My Critique:
Eagle H Beam Rods------Go with Scat. They are always dead on their small and big ends and cheaper to boot
Wiseco 9.0 Pistons-----Go with the 8.3:1 pistons. No reason to go with 9:1. W/O EMS it will really limit your HP potential.
Eagle Crank (anyone know what size i will need?)----Don't bother with an aftermarket crank. Just make sure your stocker is good.
ACL Bearings ----Get the Tri-Metals. Don't even bother with the coated bearings. Just extra money hogs and you don't need them.
ARP Bolts all around-----Rods come with ARPs, Wouldn't go with Main studs unless you line hone them.
Evo 3 Turbo & Install Kit----You already know what you want
Cometic Head Gasket-----Don't bother. Get the Mitsu MLS. Cheaper and IMO better made
Jackson Auto Machine Full Gasket Kit----Can't go wrong. Just ensure all gaskets are Mitsu
2G Rebuilt Head----Nothing wrong here, Might consider some DKS2 or 3 cams and BC Springs and retainers since it's already off the motor
2g Intake & Exhaust Manifolds----Also nothing wrong with these for a E316G
1G Throttle Body----I would stick with the 2G one unless you have a 1G TB laying around
1G Bov--- If you do the "Dodge Mod" then it works nicely but will leak below 12 in/Hg.
Balance Shaft Removal Kit----Always a must in my book
New Oil & Water Pumps-----Ensure you get Mitsu and not aftermarket. Trust me on this. Spend the extra money here.
New Timing Components-----Always a good thing
Apexi SAFC2----Check to see if your ECU is an EPROM. If it is go with DSMLink. I don't like Link but it's much better than a SAFC
Venom MBC----I prefer the TurboXS MBC but as long as it works
Glowshift Boost Gauge & Pod----Good gauges and cheap. Beware they are hard to see in daylight. I prefer to spend a tad more and go with autometers. Phantom II's are my favorite.
PTE 780CC Injectors----With a SAFC don't go above 660cc injectors. IF you go link get 850cc+ injectors. Tops would be 1000cc injectors to try and have a decent idle.
AEM Fuel Rail-----Totally not needed. Keep the stocker. Waste of money here.


There is my comments.

Some other things you need.
Fuel Pump--Walbro 255HP is good choice and easy to install
AFPR----Go with a bolt-on if you can find on. Otherwise get the Aeromotive and install kit. Not to difficult to install.
FMIC----Get the SSAutocrome one. They are still $295 shipped. Ordered one from them directly just a week ago. Recieved in 4 days. Not the best but for the money it can't be beat.

With a E316G you are not going to be putting more than 400HP down. You don't need to go overkill on everything. I like no leaks personally. Mitsu gaskets are the best and don't leak. Don't use any sealants with them unless it's Mopar Gasket Sealant which I use on almost all my paper gaskets and HG's. You can't neglect your fuel system. You can't use the stock SMIC. It's very small. Smaller than a 1G SMIC. And a tip. Don't use the oil pan gasket. Use either Mopar Engine RTV or a product called "The Right Stuff". Oil pan gaskets will always eventually leak. The Right Stuff won't and I've always been happy with the Mopar Engine RTV. Also get your oil filter housing relief enlarged by someone who knows how to do it, or read up on it and do it yourself.

One last thing that is a personal thing. I prefer to always get oil from the head for my turbo's when balance shafts are removed. Otherwise you do risk putting to much oil through it and you will push oil past the oil seal. Had it just happen on a new MHI E316G the other day on a buddies car. But their are a lot of people on these boards that fell it's just not enough. Also ensure you get a new Mitsu PCV valve. Also will help with oil pushing past the turbo.
 
thanks guys for the opinions, I am going to stay with the eagle crank and ive been told i will need the 88mm one for the stock buildup, Is this correct?


So i can expect under 400HP with the EVO3?
are there any other turbo's that are priced around the same that will kickout over 450 whp?

thanks guys
 
Not unless you look at other items such as your fuel supply, intercooler. You can not overlook these items. Unless you are going to run straight methanol then who cares about an Intercooler but then you definitly don't have enough fuel supply to even run 300 HP on methanol. Do some searching for turbo's. Their is a "hey what turbo should I run" thread almost every day. It gets old and the same answers are given almost everytime. Don't even have to bother with the search feature. Their will be a lot of them on the very first page in the turbo forum.
 
im building this motor for my daily driver, i would like something with a little more OOOMPH than what i have, Id like a good 400-450 WHP out of this ride.


i would be totally happy with 400, but i would like to build it up as much as possible.


I Will be using the stock Fuel Rail as suggested,

Everyone saying to stick with the stock crank, but i have the cash for the eagle crank, So is there any reason NOT to go with the eagle crank?
 
You dont need the eagle crank. If your goal was 600awhp I would say stick with the stock crank. I am building a motor right now with 600+awhp in mind and uess what is going in it"
Stock Crank
Stock 2.0 block
Eagle Rods and JE Pistons.
Simple and effective.
I would spend extra money getting all the new parts weight balenced well.
Keep the stock crank, they are STRONG.

In regards to your 400-450 goal, you are reaching higher than what the E316G will bring you. There have been people to make 400whp on a E3 but it quite uncommon. E3's are great 350 whp turbos. If you want 400-450 look at a 50 trim.
 
You dont need the eagle crank. If your goal was 600awhp I would say stick with the stock crank. I am building a motor right now with 600+awhp in mind and uess what is going in it"
Stock Crank
Stock 2.0 block
Eagle Rods and JE Pistons.
Simple and effective.
I would spend extra money getting all the new parts weight balenced well.
Keep the stock crank, they are STRONG.

In regards to your 400-450 goal, you are reaching higher than what the E316G will bring you. There have been people to make 400whp on a E3 but it quite uncommon. E3's are great 350 whp turbos. If you want 400-450 look at a 50 trim.

Curt Browns just made 470ish with a 16g on e85 with the help of Nate from TPG. :thumb: But that is just one case :p I agree that a 16g is just a 350whp turbo in the hands of most everyone here.
 
Yes indeed, save the money in keeping the stock crank. If more hp is what you're after, use that money to upgrade to a 50 trim and get DSMlink.
 
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