The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

My 7 bolt finally died!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rich3389

15+ Year Contributor
993
6
Dec 27, 2006
Ocean springs, Mississippi
Hello all,
The end has come to my 7 bolt....
compression is 90, 150, 165, 175 and is also starting to knock at idle, smoke and blow dipsticks out like no tomorrow...
Can I fix it for around 700 dollars? I am not looking to do a 6 bolt swap or nothing like that, just to get my motor or another motor is good running condition again...
Some input?
 
I talked to Polk before an for a rebuild on your 7 bolt it would be 1500. But I wouldn't use them now since the oner that worked on DSM's died. The people there can work on our engines but there more Honda people now. I would do a swap. Showdown Motorsports has a good deal the for a few k For a full 6bolt swap with all forged parts.
 
I am now looking to buying a new rebuilt 7 bolt, I have about 1k max to play with here, my head is still good, may need new valve seals, I've done some searching but I didnt see much as in rebuilt stock shortblocks anywhere.
 
I think you could very well do it for under a grand, although i think you will be closer to a grand really. With all the machining and honing (which personally i think you could do yourself) and all the bearings and piston rings and maybe even getting your head rebuilt. do most of the work yourself and you`ll be ok with money.
 
Yes i have to agree do most of it yourself as long as you know what your doing but i would not even try the machining there is to much at steak there.
 
i'm having mine done, and total cost $1394, but that is with some head work(bought a head off ebay, said 68k on it, shop took a look, found a few pits, needs decked and all the exhaust valve guides where shot, almost 2/16's or more in valve play, and new exhaust valves, gudies, seals etc $350), new pistons/rings , new bearings, reusing my rods, crank polish (thank god) line hone, bore etc at a shop local to me. I could of gotten it done cheaper if i wasnt lied to about the cond of the block i got...

if your rods are ok, and block is sound, you could get it done, stock rebuild, most your looking at in parts is $210 stock pistons (depending if the shop orders oem, topline or fed)

mine should be done by the weekend, then my spare block goes in for a clean up and to let me know what i have left to do, and then it getts the goodies IE stroker :D :D
 
Yeah Honing your block is one thing so long as your cylinders are in spec.

However leave all machine work to a machine shop that know what they are doing.

They sell a full topline kit on ebay for about 500 bucks comes with the gaskets pistons rings and bearings.

However, you can get acl bearings, cometice HG, ARP head studs, OEM oil and water pump, and rings, for about that if you search for a little bit. I just built mine for about 750, and I had to buy a used crank. :rocks:
 
If your budget is only around $700, you might wanna look for a used block. Are you going to pull out the engine yourself? If so, you have a good chance of fixing the car for $700 if you keep everything stock.
 
my partner will sell you a full 7bolt long block for 700, had an engine fire, internals are fine, its out of a spyder. or ive got a new 7bolt block, with forged internals, theres lots of ways to go bud, swap is easiest and cheapest, then you got an extra engine to scavenge off of
 
Honestly the 6 Bolt swap is really not that bad when you have your dead 7 bolt still there. I have been building a 6 bolt out of a 90 Laser RS for my 95 GST that came as basically a bare shell, Now that is a P.I.T.A. due to tracking down every 2g part and sensor that should have already been with the car. Do a little research on here and you will see you already have 90% of the stuff required and after it is all said and done a stronger motor for the effort.

But that is just my .02
 
Bad idea. I've heard too many people getting the wrong engines from them. Your order a 7 bolt an get a 6 bolt . You get your engine in an it doesnt work. Stuff like that. The good side is if it don work. The y will ship you another an tell you to keep the spare. That there just goes to tell you how much those engines cost them. When the shipping is more than the engine is worth...
 
It all has to do with emissions in Japan. They have to change out their motors every couple of years or so many miles. They have no use for them after that.
 
i would go with the 6 bolt swap it is ALOT stronger i blew my 7 bolt and threw in a 6 bolt from a 90 gst and that BEAST is the hardest to blow i am not talking like i have tried but i can rev it to about 7200 easy with out the worry so i would go with the 6 bolt but thats just my opinion or

you can go with the 4G64 bottom end swap to have alot more torque you might get flamed for it on here i am not sure how people feel about that swap but that is another option you have i would honestly go with the 6 bolt i am very happy with mine you would most likely get the same results
 
Well. I have to get my car up and running by the end of this month, so, I bought a japanese import motor.
It came out of an evo 3 I believe it has a 16g with stock heatshields and an evo 3 intake mani and tb...
I figure for the price of the motor I can sell the extra turbo and extra parts off my old motor that are good and only pay a few hundred for the motor in the long run. I have a few friends that had good experiences with the import motors(keep in mind I only run a 16g and drive it nicely most of the time).
 
Are you sure it came from an Evo3? What color are the injectors? They should be yellow. Did you do the install already? How was it?
 
It all has to do with emissions in Japan. They have to change out their motors every couple of years or so many miles. They have no use for them after that.

I can believe the whole, emissions are to high, not worth repairing so replace the whole motor thing but I'm not too sure about the 30-50K they normally quote the motors have on them. Now they may have stricter standards over there but do you know see any motors over here that would be basically useless as far as passing emissions with that few K's that it would be cheeper to replace the whole motor? Not saying their all bad because I know while some have had bad experiences, lots of others have had good ones. I just think alot of them probably have alot more K's then they tell you. Also as another side not, I know a local who's son was over there & he was saying the milage over there isn't like the milage in North America. Sure we can have traffic jams but he was saying it took his son something like 6 hours for a 15-20 mile drive, everyday. So even if the motor did only have 50K on it, that may not be comparable to a motor with that kind of milage over here, just something to think about ;)
 
So i got the jdm motor, I ordered it Tuesday, and got it Friday!. I took it all apart just to be safe. I pulled the valves and put new valve seals and reseated the valves, let me just say the intake valves had huge chunks of carbon on them...
The cylinder walls look ok, you can still see the crosshatches, but there was a shitload of carbon in the combustion chamber. I put seafoam on top of the pistons and let it sit overnight, everything is all cleaned up now.
I also removed the balance shafts.
I dont believe the motor has the estimated 20-30k tiger japan import said it has, although the water pipe and thermostat housing looks very clean, almost like new! So I am thinking maybe the motor does not have that many miles on it, but the miles that are on it might be all city driving(because of all the carbon buildup.

I will be putting the motor in in a few days, I will keep an update.
 
So i got the jdm motor, I ordered it Tuesday, and got it Friday!
Hope you didn't overpay.

Direct from RRE's website:
"EVO Motors: The valve covers of the EVO 1-3 motors will be a kind of titanium color. They are the same as a US 2G motor with nothing fancy. They have the smaller 2G style intake ports, a small runner intake manifold with a larger plenum and a larger throttle body than a 2G motor.

Many times for what you wrap up in a STOCK JDM engine, you could've fully built your engine.
 
So i got the jdm motor, I ordered it Tuesday, and got it Friday!. I took it all apart just to be safe. I pulled the valves and put new valve seals and reseated the valves, let me just say the intake valves had huge chunks of carbon on them...
The cylinder walls look ok, you can still see the crosshatches, but there was a shitload of carbon in the combustion chamber. I put seafoam on top of the pistons and let it sit overnight, everything is all cleaned up now.
I also removed the balance shafts.
I dont believe the motor has the estimated 20-30k tiger japan import said it has, although the water pipe and thermostat housing looks very clean, almost like new! So I am thinking maybe the motor does not have that many miles on it, but the miles that are on it might be all city driving(because of all the carbon buildup.

I will be putting the motor in in a few days, I will keep an update.

Pics please??
 
Update on this install ?

Forgot about this thread, well the first motor from tiger auto lasted 200 miles and then it seized, I didnt even go about 3k rpm or go into boost with that motor:ohdamn:.
I kept calling tiger auto because there motors have a 30 day guarantee and it lasted like 3 days. So after about 7 calls I got them to send me another motor for just the 151 dollar shipping.
This second motor came and it looked REAL GOOD, This thing was def. rebuilt. Head looked new, it had a new head gasket, revised lifters everything was clean. So i drop that motor is and I have about 5-6k miles on this one and it is still going good so far.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top