Has my engine finally died?

[PSIcho]

So, the engine won't start. Already followed most of the how to's to no start but had a question. Engine gets fuel and spark however, compression is low. 105, 60, 50, 90, (1,2,3,4 respectively). The only thing a little puzzling to me is that the car was running fine the night before with no signs of dying.

Now my questions is what would be the ultimate minimum compression the engine requires in order to idle. I'm just concern that there's something else wrong and when I finally replace the engine the same problem persists. Motor already has 280K miles so I'm due for a replacement.

 

[SpawnedX]

Service level is 135..I doubt the engine would stop running at 134. Do the test again to make sure the numbers are viable and then follow with a leak down test. Probably rings.

 

[Fitzi722]

I believe the manufacturer spec lowest compression rating to perform service is 120. So I would assume the car wouldn't run very well anything under that.

Dropped compression could be due to piston rings, head gasket, bent/broken valves, beat valve seals, etc etc.

I'm not sure what would drop the compression that drastically that quickly though. Were there any warning sings before the car died? How was it running?

 

[90gen1tsi]

Did your timing belt slip? Quick and easy to check. that is a huge amount of MI. though... If your belt slipped and bent some valves it could cause the compression problems

 

[SpawnedX]

Correction service limit on a 1G is 121.

 

[PSIcho]

Thanks ya'll. So, I've performed the compression test about 3times and I'm confident that my tester is good although, since the engine is cold the numbers are low but I'm certain when warm, the numbers are probably not going to be more than 40lbs more. I'm still trying a few other tests but I wonder if having those low numbers if it would even idle. I will be looking into the timing marks next to see if the belt slipped but doesn't look like it did as I've had this happen to me before. Another is when I tried starting, the plugs on 2 & 3 are a bit moist as oppose to 1 & 4 which are completely dry.

 

[SpawnedX]

Those numbers are pretty low, if it did idle, it would be poorly. I would say it is definitely possibly that that engine wouldn't start or start and die.

 

[PSIcho]

BTW, FITZ, there were no signs of problems the night before as I use this as my daily driver (70mi. commute one way) and I know every little noise/sounds it makes ... Like most of us DSM'ers.

SPAWNED, the odd thing is that when cranking, there are no signs of combustion. Almost like dry cranking.

 

[SpawnedX]

Jumped timing is a very likely possibility as well. Usually when you see numbers like that, if it isn't timing, it's rings.

 

[LiquidX]

Engine should be warm but if you are concerned about anything internally it's best to not start it. Get yourself a leak down tester and go from there.

 

[3kgt2nv]

do a wet compression test. if the pressure jumps to in spec its rings. If it doesnt change its timing

 

[PSIcho]

I'll be checking the timing marks by tomorrow since the symptoms seems to point that direction, even though I doubt it, as the cranking is pretty dry with no signs of firing at all. I'll pick up a leakdown tester while I"m at it as well.

BTW, do you guys think that the moist spark plugs on cylinders 2 & 3 are attributed to the low compression on those two cylinders (60 & 50)? Or any other thoughts?

 

[3kgt2nv]

what is it wet with? fuel, oil, coolant, fruit punch???

im going to guess its fuel or oil.

 

[PSIcho]

3KG, its that high octane fruit punch I'm using haha, I guess that's why you really gotta read what you write before you post In any case, it is moist with fuel, no oil. So, not necessarily drenched neither. But I'm just curious why that's so with the other two (4 & 1) being completely dry. Again, 4 & 1 has the higher compressions 105's compared to 2 & 3 with 50, 60. I do see spark on the plugs for all these cylinders so I'm wondering if that's intermittent as well.

So, I picked up a leak down tester today and hopefully I can start working on this tomorrow. Anybody has any other thoughts?

 

[PSIcho]

PROBLEM RESOLVED!!! After a year and a half of sitting... car restarted. Three things I ended up replacing. CAM angle sensor, engine fuse and battery. I've initially replaced the CAM angle sensor as it may have been an intermittent problem that I'm encountering with it. As well as, the wires associated with it (its been converted from a crank angle sensor). Still wouldn't start. Then, months have passed prior to discovering that the engine fuse somehow broke off inside, NOT blow, but rather physically separated from on side of the connector therefore not noticeable if you were just do a quick look from the fuse window. But due to the constant cranking and old age of the battery, it finally died and I wasn't able to get a lot of attempts on restarting prior to the battery discharging. Again, months have passed until I replaced the battery, since the compression and leak down test proved there was an apparent low compression issue, it finally ran after the 5th attempt.

So there you go... 4G63's can run even with those low compression numbers I've posted. And I mean driveable as well as idle normally. Now, just have to address my charging problem as I think my alternator finally died sitting for a year, it was degrading prior to that so its no surprise.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Glad you fixed it. Had a blown fuse on my last eclipse, which I replaced, but also had bad compression and fixed accordingly.

 

[PSIcho]

Glad you fixed it. Had a blown fuse on my last eclipse, which I replaced, but also had bad compression and fixed accordingly.

Thanks Spyder, the way its running right now it seems I can still manage to drive it around normally at least until I decide to do the transplant and put a crate engine in