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My 2G already has a 14B...would a big t28 be a headache?

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carvinbassplyr

10+ Year Contributor
211
10
Dec 15, 2010
Waterford, Michigan
Like the title states I bought my 2G awd Tsi with a 14B mod/upgrade already done to it. Since it's already been converted to the 1G style turbo setup would attempting to put a Big t28 just be a counterproductive headache? The only reason I ask is because I know the Big t28's are rated @ 350hp which is exactly what I'm shooting for. I'm trying to get a turbo with the least amount of lag that will get me to 350 awhp for daily/street driving.
 
I'm sorry but this is just bad information. 350 is not difficult on pump gas if you have the right setup. I did it on 93 at 23 psi on an Evo III 16g with no knock on a basic tune. By no means am I the only one either. This is not graphs or theories, this is real world, been there done that experience.

Is there a reason ## dyno numbers say ## only @ 322whp?
 
I find this thread kind of funny. If you are still running the 14b, take that out and sell it. Buy the evo316g/b16g and take it to whatever max you can with it and you'll be glad you didn't wait any longer. You should be fine with the evo316g/b16g as all turbo will lag big or small. Im at 298whp on a dynojet and that's at 18psi. I've driven both 14b and b16g and I say you can't go wrong with the 16g rather small/b/evo. :)
 
I'm sorry but this is just bad information. 350 is not difficult on pump gas if you have the right setup. I did it on 93 at 23 psi on an Evo III 16g with no knock on a basic tune. By no means am I the only one either. This is not graphs or theories, this is real world, been there done that experience.

I do not see how this is bad ninformation. I was tuned on 91 pump. Let alone californias. And i made that. I find it hard to believe that turning up the boost and adding some more timing would not create any knock. At least safely. And i am in real world man. I had one of the best tuners in the whole dsm community tune my car. So if he could make more power, dont you think he would if it was safe? Again, if you read my profile, i am on stock block and head. Stock cams. I think with cams, i would probably be a tad over 300. But not near 350. Especially on pump gas. It just burns too hot and isnt efficient. Again sir, i do not see that happening especially in california.


Again, i know that its californias gas and it is limited. So maybe on other pump gas you could make that power. So again take into account im from california where the sun shines and gas sucks. But when talking to lucas, he said he could maybe turn the boost up 2-3 psi and add maybe 4-5 degrees more timing, but i would have been right around 300 and that was an estimate on his gas he uses in his state. So again, maybe you guys get some good good gas over there, but i dont see 350 easily on pump.
 
So honestly...what is separating the people making 350awhp on pump gas with the E316G (or at least claiming to) from the people who aren't. I understand that the tune makes or breaks the car, but that can't be the only thing...maybe subtle setup differences? I will be putting in a 6 bolt block with a 2g piston/1G rod setup and keeping the 2G head, so while it's stock parts it won't be a stock setup. I will probably go external WG but want to keep it, as well as the BOV, recirculated because the extra noise draws too much attention from the local 5-0 around here. (I know a few holset SRT's that get harassed constantly because the volume level of the turbo's spool is so prominent compared to "most turbo cars" that the cops just assume they're running illegal mods/setups and keep pulling them over.)

I'm surprised no one was quick to jump on that post...
 
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Im in favor of the 16g but i think the big t28 would be fun to try an pass-off as a stock setup...then blow somones doors off in a drag LOL!
I Own an FP B28, and it's a great little turbo (flows approx 505cfm), quick spooling hits hard, and full boost by 2800 rpm, and holds boost til redline. I absolutely Love it.


In the Op's case and since all the work has been done to install a 14B, then an E3 16g (550 cfm) would be the logical choice. with minimal upgrades and a tune it will be an excellent performer.
 
I ended up getting hooked up with a fellow forum member in my local area...goes by DSMraver. He's gonna help guide me through the turbo setup on my car as well as the build/swap of the 6 bolt block. Really cool guy, currently has 3 DSM's in his drive and has been DD'ing them for 15 years...my car should be solid with him helping me out :)
 
If anyone has been following this and cares for an update...it's been a slow going process but haven't given up. The block is at the machine shop and the build should hopefully be finished within the next few weeks. 6 bolt block bored 20 over, 1G rods/2G pistons, 2G head, FP2 cams, ARP hardware, kiggle girdle, etc...basic "stock" style build. The 14b will stay on for the break in with the possible addidtion of an evo 7cm housing for the time being to let it breath a little better. I still, unfortunately, am having trouble deciding on the "final" turbo setup as DSMraver has me torn between the FP68HTA and E316G. (he's leaning more towards the FP68HTA) Are enough people using these turbos to show real results? I know these are advertised to spool faster AND outflow the tried and true E316G's but is the price difference worth it? I know 20G's can easily make the 350awhp goal but for a DD and 90% street car, but I'm not sure the 20G will have the spool characteristics I would like. Correct me if I'm wrong but if you're gonna by a 20G you might as well get a TD06H, but that means more spool time. You want a faster spooling 20G then get the TD05H but expect to run out of steam quickly. < Neither of those sound like a good fit for me as I want a usable street power band that will also work well on open track days with friends every once in a while. the claim that the 68HTA spools faster AND outflows an E316G makes it seem like the perfect turbo for me, but E316G's can be had for a much smaller price tag hence me being so torn...I really don't want to have to flip a coin
 
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It depends on your budget. But the prices of evo3 turbos are getting outta hand lately. If it were me I would go evo3.. Just my opinion though.
 
There's a member here that rebuilds turbos to sell who is convincing me that he can build a TD06H 20G with a wheel combo that will spool as fast as an E316G and, obviously, have better top end power. Sounds too good to be true, but would be awesome as it would make my goal easier to reach. Thoughts?
 
E316g is the turbo to get for your goal I believe! You can find great deals on here or buy it new from FP at an amazing price.. I loved mine when I had it!
Now 350AWHP isnt as easy as it sounds but is doable and still be reliable without a problem....A HX35 wouldbe overkill for your 350AWHP goal and if you want to make life a little easier you cna go with the 20g FP offers at a really good price($500)and just get yourself a DSM 7cm housing and you will crank out 350AWHP even easier for minimal price difference.
This is my turbo of choice because spool time is not much different and youll be set for you HP goals and be veyr happy on the street...
Lets see everybodies opinion on this!

What about a TD06H 20G with a 7cm housing? I know the TD05H 20g's tend to fall off up high because you're really pushing the edge of the smaller wheels flow capacity, but will the TD06H wheel induce alot more lag, like too much for a DD street car?
 
For now I've decided on a 20G with a TD05H turbine in 7cm housing with a 2.5" turbine outlet (like the E3 housing vs the traditional 7cm housings a with 2" turbine outlet) and a compressor housing with a 3" inlet (vs the more common ones with the smaller inlet). I'm hoping this combo will open the air flow up top better while keeping that quick TD05H spool :) 350awhp, here I come...
 
I think a 16g is the only way to go, you wont be worried about lag after you feel that beast.

I'm going to bring this back instead of starting a new thread...I'm locked between the FP HTA68 and the new FP HTA Green. I know that the HTA Green flows substantially more than the HTA68, but what are the spool characteristics? I know 20g's lag pretty bad for DD and auto-x but the new green, obviously, isn't your average 20G. I know the HTA68 will spool plenty fast for DD and recreational auto-x, but I haven't found a ton of people putting down 350+awhp with it (my goal). Any body have/experienced both of these turbos?
 
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Also can the FP turbos made for scoobys be reconfigured to fit on DSMs? There are plenty of good condition HTA68's and FP greens going used on the scooby forums.
 
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