Multiple codes, running lean, no power, bogs down

[ChiTownHussla]

Hi all, I am back with a new dsm under my belt. Traded my original one for a del sol because my mechanical abilities weren't up to par to keep my dsm up and running right. Plus my budget was really tight .

Anyways I have a 2g 1997 GSX AWD mostly stock. Problems that I know about are a fuel sender unit gasket leak. This will be fixed by next week. I will order gasket on Friday when I get paid.

I am getting multiple codes at once here.
p0170_ from what I understand it means its running lean
p0136- again I found out its bank 1 o2 sensor
p0141- bank 2 o2 sensor
p1500- Alternator or failed ECU
p0443-evap code (guessing cause of the gasket)
p1105- unknown what it can be to me

What would make all of these go at once? now I have cleared the system this morning and am waiting to see what comes back up.Can it be the CAS sensor?

what do you guys recommend my plan of attack to be? I would rather not spend over 150$ in o2 sensor if something else is causing the lean condition.

 

[greydelta38]

P1105 is a fuel pressure solenoid. It's not uncommon to have this problem right after an o2 sensor problem. I'm pretty sure it's the upstream o2 sensor that screws with everything.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

oYa. That code should be gone. New upstream o2. Installed

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Well, I hooked up my scan tool last night and checked the codes. I only got 3 codes and they are all rear 02 related. Car was acting up last night, kinda sounded like a 3 cylinder and didnt let me drive me it until I came back 5 min later. IDK. I will try to check resistor pack today...any ideas?My fuel pressure is prettty steady now at 40 psi at idle

 

[greydelta38]

Well, I hooked up my scan tool last night and checked the codes. I only got 3 codes and they are all rear 02 related. Car was acting up last night, kinda sounded like a 3 cylinder and didnt let me drive me it until I came back 5 min later. IDK. I will try to check resistor pack today...any ideas?My fuel pressure is prettty steady now at 40 psi at idle

What do you mean by 'didn't let me drive it'? If one of the cylinders isn't firing, that's either a clogged injector or your o2 sensor is still messing up. Probably. What were the codes?

 

[delta448]

Or a bad plug or plug wire.

Also, 40psi with the vac line off the FPR? or on?

 

[ChiTownHussla]

I think the hot start issue is coolant temp sensor. I will check Wednesday. And yes itbwould basically run so lowbon idle thatched I drive th car it would just stall out.
Fuel pressure is between 36-40 psi with vacuum hose detached from the afpr. O2 is good and new

 

[greydelta38]

Also, I'm pretty sure that DSMs use a specific type of oxygen sensor, and a universal sensor may cause 'check engine' problems.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Itbis oem sir.

 

[greydelta38]

My O2 Sensor is going bad now, I think. I just put a new one in it, and my idle rpms fluctuate from 1.5k to under 500 when I cold start it in the morning. I've got a CE code for a fuel pressure solenoid, also. Does anyone have any idea what the hell is going on? Should I have spent the extra money and ordered an OEM sensor? (I'd rather do it by hand than spend a ridiculous amount of money to have someone else do such a simple task.)

 

[ChiTownHussla]

what company is your o2? and I changed mine myself no problem. Fuel pressure solenoid code is from the solenoid on the driver side firewall connected to fuel pressure regulator. As far as fluctuating idle when cold, the o2 has nothing to do with that. ECU mandates that with sensors input . o2 is used only when car is warm

 

[nickk90]

My O2 Sensor is going bad now, I think. I just put a new one in it, and my idle rpms fluctuate from 1.5k to under 500 when I cold start it in the morning. I've got a CE code for a fuel pressure solenoid, also. Does anyone have any idea what the hell is going on? Should I have spent the extra money and ordered an OEM sensor? (I'd rather do it by hand than spend a ridiculous amount of money to have someone else do such a simple task.)

You can order a Denso sensor from rockauto for less than have of what Mitsu charges. Denso is the OEM sensor.

 

[greydelta38]

what company is your o2? and I changed mine myself no problem. Fuel pressure solenoid code is from the solenoid on the driver side firewall connected to fuel pressure regulator. As far as fluctuating idle when cold, the o2 has nothing to do with that. ECU mandates that with sensors input . o2 is used only when car is warm

Doesn't the ECU directly control the air flow? I thought the whole point of the oxygen sensor was to keep the oxygen to fuel ratio at an equal level to run properly, and if the sensor is screwed up and not giving the engine enough oxygen, it would cause it to stutter, die, etc. I may be wrong, but I'm new to the whole mechanic game, so go easy on me.

Could it be an Idle Air Control valve or something like that?

 

[delta448]

Doesn't the ECU directly control the air flow?

No, your right foot does that. The Mass Airflow Sensor measures the mass of air entering the engine and then the ECU commands the injectors to stay open for the amount of time necessary to introduce the mass of fuel needed to get the proper Air to Fuel Ratio with that measured air mass.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

If it fluctuates when its cold then your biss screw might be in the wrong place. Try adjusting it. Turn it in all the way then two full turns back out.

 

[delta448]

^This is a pet peeve of mine. Do it right. The ISC position has a larger effect on idle speed than the BISS adjustment. It's on par with people thinking the TPS voltage is more important than the Idle Position Switch on a 2G.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

^This is a pet peeve of mine. Do it right. The ISC position has a larger effect on idle speed than the BISS adjustment. It's on par with people thinking the TPS voltage is more important than the Idle Position Switch on a 2G.

? You linked the same page I have in other threads. And the one I had in mind with this post. If the screw had been messed with before the isc will not be in its correct position. I know this.

It could be either or tbh. The position range of the isc is different when cold than when hot. Tps position doesn't change with the temperature. Again either one could be the issue. But it was just my .02¢.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Just ordered 2 new walbro 255 pumps. And also ordered the taxtrix cable maybe this will help.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Updates time. I put in new 255 pumps. Bought off a reputable member on here with under 5k miles on them. Put them in without rewire kit. Hooked it all up, ran great!!! Pulled hard but still cut out. Figure I might have some boost leaks. I had 45 psi at idle right after install. Parked the car for a few days and took her out for a cruise. Went back to 34 psi!!! Whatcthe fudge!!!

My thinking is that there is no way to secure the rubber line from top of pump to bottom of full blown hangar. Maybe hose is coming loose or something? Idk guys. It's really frustrating to be honest. I was gna do the rewire today but lost the relay!!! This dsm wanted. To give up but I won't!!!

Any ideas? And btw I will be doing the rewire on wed morning.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Any ideas? Does anyone have anything I should try or look into? I mean I got the 45 psi at idle right after install. This was without rewire or anything as well.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Ok guys. I guess my afpr is bad. I did the rewire and all is good at idle. But the afpr isn't adding fuel pressure under boost. Guess the one I have is bad. I have it bottomed out already and only get 40 psi of fuel pressure just thought I would update.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Ok guys. UPDATE TIME

I have the stock regulator back on. Running the fuel pressure solenoid as well. I am still having the same issues. Cold start issues and hot start issues. Hot starts now make the car bog down fall on its face when I engage a gear and begin to release clutch. I just OHMED out my ECT sensor and it checks out great. So I have eliminated that. I have no codes except for the REAR O2 Sensor.

The p1500 code I got rid of by tightening my loose alternator and the tensioner as well. I get about 14.4 volts cruising and around 13.8 -14.0 volts at idle. So that is gone.

The fuel pressure solenoid code is gone because I hooked it back up with connector and also vacuum lines.

The fuel trim and evap codes never came back either.

I just ordered a wideband from a member on here and should get it by tomorrow. I will hook it up this wknd hopefully and see exactly what is going on.

I also purchased the tactrix cable and flash adaptor with a plastic case ECU so I can run evoscan and ecuflash. This will allow me to see exactly what my car is seeing.

I also a buying this saturday a stock fuel sending unit to go back to the original 1 pump in tank setup. This will help me eliminate variables for my lean issue.

My narrowband still pegs super lean at anyting more than easy throttle. I know its not the best but my WB is on its way.

Any ideas? helpful tips?

Last thing is the fuel sender gasket. THE one from STM. Its a circle gasket to seal whre the fuel sender unit goes into the tank. How does that go exactly? I cant find a pic of it installed. It has a lip around the circumference, but its only about halfway thru the gasket itself. So I have the leak from there also.

THANKS ALOT GUYS

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Any info or help? I have done what you all told me. Now trying to move forward with this car

 

[ChiTownHussla]

wisemen?

 

[EisHERE]

First off, did you check for boost leaks? You put the gasket on the pump right? everything is sealed up the way it should be? also, DON'T run a 255 without an AFPR let alone TWO 255's. this is dumping fuel into it. look into another one. also, do the rigged way for the second o2 sensor as mentioned before, o2 sensors are known to cause some dumb problems. You should probably just get ECMlink too, I'm really confused as to why someone needed two pumps on a stock car? was this car modded like crazy before? Check plugs, wires, and everything like that. These guys are right about alternaters and such, overcharging isn't something you want. and the rewire of the pumps may help solve a problem. You want to make sure the pumps are getting constant voltage rather than fluctuating... If I'm wrong about any of this, someone else will chime in. But I've done my fair share of research and to the best of my knoweldge, this is what I've come up with. keep in mind I've been up for almost 30 hours haha.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

First off, did you check for boost leaks? You put the gasket on the pump right? everything is sealed up the way it should be? also, DON'T run a 255 without an AFPR let alone TWO 255's. this is dumping fuel into it. look into another one. also, do the rigged way for the second o2 sensor as mentioned before, o2 sensors are known to cause some dumb problems. You should probably just get ECMlink too, I'm really confused as to why someone needed two pumps on a stock car? was this car modded like crazy before? Check plugs, wires, and everything like that. These guys are right about alternaters and such, overcharging isn't something you want. and the rewire of the pumps may help solve a problem. You want to make sure the pumps are getting constant voltage rather than fluctuating... If I'm wrong about any of this, someone else will chime in. But I've done my fair share of research and to the best of my knoweldge, this is what I've come up with. keep in mind I've been up for almost 30 hours haha.

I did a boost leak test and It had no major leaks. lost the 20 Lbs in about 10 seconds. no major hissing.

I am not sure about that gasket but I am pretty sure I did it right.

The front o2 has been replaced. The rear one is only for cat effeciency.

I will not get ecmlink because I have ecuflash, jsut not hooked up yet.

I dont know why it has the double pumper to be honest. car came with a stock t25.

The p1500 was taken care of. My alternator was just loose. I did the rewire also. for both pumps.

I recently found out that I am missing a ground from engine to battery.

This is where I am as of right now. I have the stock fuel sending unit assembly with stock pump coming in as we speak. I will throw that in and sell the double pumper setup. Hopefully this weekend I can get all the done and report back.
I just wanted to see if anyone had ideas.

Can I disconnect one of the pumps from the double pumper setup for now? this way it is like only one pump is there right?