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More Wheel and Tire FAQ's

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wret

15+ Year Contributor
2,931
90
Jul 3, 2003
Bel Air, Maryland
What is fender rolling? How do I roll my fenders?

There are two types of fender rolling. The type I advocate is actually fender “flange” rolling and I usually refer to it as such. There is a second process referred to as fender rolling involving the use of a specialized tool to relocate the edge of the fender a small amount. This more severe process will not be discussed here.

If you look and/or feel behind the lip or your rear fenders, you will find that just past the smooth round visible edge is a rather sharp, evil ridge of metal running along the entire fender arch. If wider tires and / or suspension lowering are in your future, altering the flange (fender flange rolling) is a necessity. There are a few different ways to accomplish this. Most are pretty similar.

1. Remove the rear wheel.
2. Clean the wheel well area in the vicinity or the flange.
3. Heat the flange area with a heat gut to soften the paint. This will help prevent cracking.
4. Bend the flange inward. Many people put the wheel back on and use a baseball bat leveraged over the top of the tire. I have used a piece of 2” steel pipe wrapped with duct tape with good results. Some actually hold the bat in position and have a helper roll the car back and forth.
5. Seal any exposed metal edges of the flange. I like roofing tar for this. It’s cheap and comes in caulking-gun tubes. It dries quickly and blends with the fender under coating. I just slather it on with a rubber glove.

Previous advice I have read and given includes notching the flange to make bending easier. It is ACM's (Charles) opinion that this step is unnecessary and could allow additional uncontrolled body flex rather than controlled suspension flex. That's bad.

How does tire width relate to wheel width?

A ballpark guideline is that the wheel width should be somewhere between 70% and 100% of the tire width. Most tire manufacturers make specifications available listing the min/max wheel size for a particular tire and the “measuring” wheel width. The measuring width is the size wheel they mount the tire on to test the other dimensions and could be considered an optimum wheel size for the tire. Best handling performance usually occurs when using wheels at the measuring width or wider.

I’m still not sure of my choice of tires and wheels for my 2g. What information do I need to post when I ask a fitment question?

-Wheel Diameter, width and offset.
-Tire size (all three numbers) and brand.
-Suspension to be lowered or unlowered.

The wheel brand and style are not a factor in determining proper fitment but the construction and weight should be carefully considered to meet your goals.

Dimensions of tires of different brands vary considerably. When working with close clearances of wider tires on a lowered 2g, it is important to check specifications of the tires you are considering. Diameter is fairly consistent but there are significant differences it tread width between brands. Some brands of 225 width tires are actually as wide as other brands of 245 width.
 

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More good stuff, Wret. If you could somehow get the tread widths for 225/45/17 Azenis and MXs, that would add a lot to your graph. Then I'd start working on 235/45/17 (since that is stock diameter for the speedo-obsessed) and then 245/40/17 (for the gimme-the-max-types).

Yeah, I know, it's a lot of work. But the outrageous amounts that we're being paid for this ... ;)

- Jtoby
 
I actually was thinking of the Azenis Sports, but that's an RT-215, isn't it, so never mind.

The new Falken is the RT-615. The 225/45/17 has a diameter of 25.0 and a treadwidth of 8.3 (just like an RT-215). They don't make a 235/45/17 or a 245/40/17, but they have a 255/40/17 that is 25.0 by 9.4. If 9.4" could be wedged in there, this would be a great option, although it would only be happy on a 9"-wide wheel. According to your 2D knuckle model -- see: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169814 -- you'd need to drop back to around a +35 offset, which brings the total outward shift of the outside edge to about an inch compared to my 245/40/17 MXs on +40s, which will never tuck in.

- Jtoby
 
I am not an advocate of fender rolling in this manner. The rear arch lip is a structural component and should not be cut at all. By cutting through the lip weld a stress riser has been created, the flex will now occur here, concentrated at the end of the cut. If you have stiff suspension and/or sticky tyres, some of the wheel travel will now take place in bodyshell twist rather than controlled suspension movement - the car just became a go kart.

Cutting is also unnecessary - the arch lip can be rolled without resorting to this extreme. Simply inserting the baseball bat between the arch and the tyre, the rolling the bat/moving the car will accomplish this.

Be sure to heat up the paint with a heat gun to make it more flexible, otherwise it will crack and peel, then corrosion will set in.

Other than this, good post.

Charles
 
Jtoby, for some reason the MX tread widths are listed as N/A in any of the posted specs. I can find. After some searching I found a post by Luke of Tirerack, in another site, stating that the 225/45/17's have a tread width of 8.3 inches. This seems pretty much average and would seem to contradict your experience. Do you think the 8.3 is wrong?

I also contacted Kumho and requested specs.
 
If a 225 Azenis Sport is 8.3, then a 245 MX is probably about the same. I've had these two side-by-side. I do not believe for an instant that a 225 MX is as wide at the tread as a 225 Azenis. But I will measure my 245 MXs tonight and post again.

- Jtoby
 
wret said:
....There is a second process referred to as fender rolling involving the use of a specialized tool to relocate the edge of the fender a small amount. This more severe process will not be discussed here.

are you going to do a write up for this process??? i'd be interested. i want to run 17x9's. this could be a better alternative to making fender flares for me....
 
The width of the tread on my 245/40/17 MXs is about 8.7". So they are a bit wider than 225/45/17 Azenis.

- Jtoby
 
All of what follows concern 225/45/17s....

How sure are about the posted tread width for the Potenza RE-070? The TireRack says that they are only 8.7" wide at the tread. As converging evidence, note that the Potenza S-03 (pole position) is only 8.4" at the tread, the RE-050A is only 8.2" at the tread, The RE-050 is only 8.1", and the RE-040 is only 7.4".

With that said, I agree that the Expedia S-01 is about 8.9" wide at the tread. Of course, that tire "cheats" in that the so-called 225 is really over 230 at the sidewall.

Now for the Yokos. The treadwidth for an AVS Sport is only 7.9" (89%), which makes me doubt that an AVS ES-100 is 8.7". I know that TireRack says this, but are we sure? Note, also, that even the Yoko A008P is only 8.3" wide at the tread.

Also, you have two lines for Dunlop SP Sport 2000E; I think that the wider of the two is really the SP Sport 8080E.

Since people have been babbling about them, you might add that the Fuzion ZRi is 7.9" at the tread.

- Jtoby

ps. when do we start the chart for 245/40/17? ;)
 
Since I made at least one copying error and other data seems to be questionable, it seems some verification is needed before this becomes reference material. I'll go over the numbers and compare at least two sources. For any that I cannot find multiple sources, I'll footnote as "unverified."

The AVS sports are listed as 7.9 and 8.7 for the ES100 on the Yokohamatire.com site. Weird, huh.

You like to see a guy work, huh? This may take a little time. I'll stick a disclaimer in the chart above until I can spend some more time on it.
 
I revised the chart of tire sizes to include a comparison of popular brands that come in what should be the three most common upgrade sizes for 17 inch wheels. The difference between types is surprising.
 
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