Manifold which one too choose?

[CamronG]

Okay I have heard a huge debait about cast manifolds and tubular manifolds I am looking to get a new one any suggestions? Specs are 16g gst stock exhaust.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Whats wrong with the one you have, 1g, 2g, are great manifolds and cheap i have a fp but got mine on sale. The 2g will be a great one, especially if its ported.

 

[mrfister11]

get a die grinder with a burr bit and hoard the stock one out.. in stock form the 2g "i think" is better.. but once you grind it out then its just a matter of which one is done better.. i had a 1g manifold that was just, well, huge.. flowed really sweet on stock exhaust gst..really helped with 3" exhaust though. perfect project

 

[CamronG]

Okay that sounds like a plan o and iugrad92 thanks for your help with the whole turbo thing lets just say it was unrebuild-able the back fan is some where in the exhaust. But on that note I will just bore the hell out of the thing

 

[mrfister11]

dont go too far.. just make them uniform and get rid off all the castings that stick out.. an exhaust works better really smooth.. also port out your collector flange to something bigger.. but get a gasket to match it to.. wish i had pictures of the one i had. it was SWEEET

 

[Jun3bug]

The ebay tubular manifold are decent, never had a problem out of mine when I had it

 

[agentorange313]

The ebay tubular manifold are decent, never had a problem out of mine when I had it

This may be true for your case.

OP, if ebay tubular is an option for you please do more research for yourself and see the results we have here on dsmtuners.

 

[joescool2008]

Tubular ebay manifold had worked for me, i recently bought a FP race cast manifold though for ease of assembly. The tubular manifold looked cool and probably flowed well, but caused high underhood temps and made my hood really hot.

 

[LiquidX]

I would just stick with the stock manifold for now pending it's free of cracks. Consider porting out the collector to match up a 7cm gasket and port out the turbo inlet to match as well as the wastegate inlet to alleviate boost creep.

If not, then that's fine too. If you do wish to upgrade, I recommend getting the FP Race manifold, it's sturdy, better flowing, and will last a long while if you upgrade the turbo. Myself and many others are using much larger turbos (Holset HX40) with the FP manifold with great success.

I would do research on here about eBay no name exhaust manifolds to at least find a "quality" one that won't crack.

If you do get the FP manifold, you will want to get new hardware which includes 2 OEM turbo bolts, 2 Evo style turbo bolts, 8 OEM conical washers, and I would highly suggest the OEM MLS manifold-to-turbo gasket which all can be found on Forced Performances web site.

 

[boost97gst]

Ive heard cracking issues on non-cast tubular manis on ebay. I too would stick with a ported 2gmani. They seem extremely tough and probably more than capable of 400whp. I ported the hell out mine recently. Just get a good carbide bit and an air die and get to work. Use gloves, long sleeves, respirator/mask, and goggles. You'll be surprised on how may metal "arrows" shoot out when your cutting.

 

[Dsmj89]

If anything i just put up a hafe manifold up for sale in the classifieds.
It's got the big 7cm2 collector and wastegate provision. Great upgrade for cheap.

 

[CamronG]

I would just stick with the stock manifold for now pending it's free of cracks. Consider porting out the collector to match up a 7cm gasket and port out the turbo inlet to match as well as the wastegate inlet to alleviate boost creep.

If not, then that's fine too. If you do wish to upgrade, I recommend getting the FP Race manifold, it's sturdy, better flowing, and will last a long while if you upgrade the turbo. Myself and many others are using much larger turbos (Holset HX40) with the FP manifold with great success.

I would do research on here about eBay no name exhaust manifolds to at least find a "quality" one that won't crack.

If you do get the FP manifold, you will want to get new hardware which includes 2 OEM turbo bolts, 2 Evo style turbo bolts, 8 OEM conical washers, and I would highly suggest the OEM MLS manifold-to-turbo gasket which all can be found on Forced Performances web site.

You have a point I think I will just bore it out while I am having my seats redone my turbo is only a 16g td05. Should I look in to upgrading exhaust since I will be going this.

 

[rb26alpha]

stick to what you have and u know it will last. if you upgrade your turbo then u may have to switch to another manifold

 

[awd_some]

You have a point I think I will just bore it out while I am having my seats redone my turbo is only a 16g td05. Should I look in to upgrading exhaust since I will be going this.

The problem with the "race" tubular welded manifolds are just that. It's welded steel that's not going to last very long due to the extreme heat. The 2G manifolds are pretty solid really. Port it for cheap and save money for an exhaust. That stock exhaust and cat will be a bigger restriction and you'll make more power by opening it up.

Tubular ebay manifold had worked for me, i recently bought a FP race cast manifold though for ease of assembly. The tubular manifold looked cool and probably flowed well, but caused high underhood temps and made my hood really hot.

The extra heat was probably caused by your lack of a heat shield on the manifold. I see way too many DSMs with hood paint issues, melted/blackened underhood parts, etc - all caused by not putting a heat shield or "header wrap" back on. This goes for the O2 sensor housing as well...Mitsu put it there for a reason, use it!

 

[joescool2008]

I could have wrapped it, however it's hard to put a heat shield on a tubular manifold that BARELY clears the valve cover. Never had a paint issue, was just hotter than I will ever prefer.