Major Problem Please Help... 1G GSX

[Newlogics]

Welp just checked it. I drove the 40 minute round trip just to see for myself. Turns out it was connected and according to my logger the idle switch is working perfectly. CRAP! I thought for sure that would be it. Tomorrow, we are putting a bung for the second o2 sensor for the wide band. THis should tell us what it is really doing. That was a dam good call tho man. That could have easily been it.

Another rather simple but possible cause.
Magnus has 4 or 5 open ports on the bottom, that come un-plugged. Did you plug them up/used them?

 

[GSXlaunch]

Sorry I havent posted in a while. We got the wideband on there and at idle it was reading in the range of 14 to 1 thru 15 and sometimes 16 to 1. The guy at the shop drove it, before putting the wideband on, and his remarks were "it drove like crap, absolutely no power" It will not boost past 5, maybe 7psi before falling flat on her face. One thing I noticed yesterday by looking at my logger was that o2 trims (again at idle) were rangine from the 20% to 40%. However, o2 voltage was ranging between .02 and .53 which means it is running extremely lean. How can my trims be reading full rich and o2 reading the complete oposite. EGT temps at idle are pretty dead set at 450celcius according the greddy egt gauge. My settings on the maft are still 0'd out and settings on my safc roughly as follows: -5, -7, -8, -8, -7 I realize with 780cc injectors I should be somewhere near -35 accross the board! If I go any leaner then what the settings are at now, the car stumbles and really doesnt want to run. We put in another call to another well repsected local tuner who is going to try to help figure this out. Again, when the car is cold started, it idles like a dream...deep throaty exhaust note, no misses or slugishness; but once it warms up everything goes haywire. This is really beginning to get to me. I have so much time and effort into this car it is rediculous and the fact that it sits at a shop and not in my garage bothers me even more.

As for the ports on the manifold; there are 4. Starting from the driver's side in: Brake booster, Fuel Pressure Reg, Boost Gauge, HKS Bov is how I them hooked up. have Idle vacuum is at about 14 which I beleive to be normal since I FP2 cams and Fidanze flywheel. I will post again when I have more relevant information. I'd like to thank you guys for your help thus far. I do appreciate it.

h

 

[Newlogics]

Another thing to look for is EGR. If it's not hooked up right and is constantly open, then that would explain good cold idle and shitty warm idle. Disconnect EGR vacuum line and cap it off at the manifold. See if it helps.

Nevermind. Forgot that magnus mani. eliminates EGR alltogether.... duh...

 

[GSXlaunch]

Yup...I had it capped off on my stock manny too. Hopefully they can drive it today with the wideband hooked up and not melt any cylinders or get ring wash. Time will tell.

 

[EagleTalonRacer]

what about your fuel pressure regulator?

 

[GSXlaunch]

Its an aremotive set at 38psi. Car does the same weird things with the aeromotive or stock fpr. ?

 

[GSXlaunch]

Welp they were able to drive the car with the wideband hooked up today. The car was still sputtering badly up near 4k rpm. According the wideband readout a/f ratio was falling to 9:1 when the car would spew out black smoke and start the sputtering. They dialed the afc back all the way to -38 and it was better, but still cut out at 6k rpm. The car will not boost past 10psi but does pull hard up to 5500rpm at 7-10psi. This means nothing to me as I am looking to run 28-30 psi at the track. THey are thinking it is a major boost leak after the maft that is causing it to run so rich when in boost. I am beginning to think this 650 dollar manifold wasnt worth it. So, though the car drives better, it is still far from where it needs to be. I am picking up the car tomorrow and am starting over. I am removing the magnus and reinstalling a stock manny...removing the injectors and replacing them with stockers...after each trial and error I will drive it to see how it does. Now I'd like to ask a few more questions...since these injectors are so large (780cc) could at least part of this problem be that my old 5-knob afc and stock computer cannot compensate for these injectors or thier pulse width? Along these lines, I'd like recommendations on a tuning set up can help me the most with this scenerio. I am thinking about DSM Link, or go with a wideband O2 with stage three chip from keydiver with injector compensation. I can only afford one or the other. I've already got an eprom ecu. Either way, thanks for all the help thus far.

 

[urcnjoe]

Welp they were able to drive the car with the wideband hooked up today. The car was still sputtering badly up near 4k rpm. According the wideband readout a/f ratio was falling to 9:1 when the car would spew out black smoke and start the sputtering. They dialed the afc back all the way to -38 and it was better, but still cut out at 6k rpm. The car will not boost past 10psi but does pull hard up to 5500rpm at 7-10psi. This means nothing to me as I am looking to run 28-30 psi at the track. THey are thinking it is a major boost leak after the maft that is causing it to run so rich when in boost. I am beginning to think this 650 dollar manifold wasnt worth it. So, though the car drives better, it is still far from where it needs to be. I am picking up the car tomorrow and am starting over. I am removing the magnus and reinstalling a stock manny...removing the injectors and replacing them with stockers...after each trial and error I will drive it to see how it does. Now I'd like to ask a few more questions...since these injectors are so large (780cc) could at least part of this problem be that my old 5-knob afc and stock computer cannot compensate for these injectors or thier pulse width? Along these lines, I'd like recommendations on a tuning set up can help me the most with this scenerio. I am thinking about DSM Link, or go with a wideband O2 with stage three chip from keydiver with injector compensation. I can only afford one or the other. I've already got an eprom ecu. Either way, thanks for all the help thus far.

I know I saw some place that you asked if it is important to ground the coil packs when changing Intake manifolds. I know when I helped a friend change his I remember one of the first things the instructions mentioned was to relocate the coil packs to a metal surface. I'm not sure if this would help much with all the problems that you are having but at this point maybe something as simple as this could help, and if not put that stocker back on. Best of luck to you.

 

[GSXlaunch]

Thanks I am going to need it. The coil packs were grounded...I am picking up the car today. I might even start tearing it apart tonight...I dont feel right about dumping more money into the car when it is not running right which is why I was asking for some support on whether or not DSMlink would help more then a keydiver chip? My thinking is that by adding this manifold that injector pulse width (all of a sudden) became an issue. I am going to pick up a new o2 sensor from the dealer as well just to eliminate that scenerio. This is depressing...

 

[GSXlaunch]

Drove the car home...surprisingly enough the car did drive better; no hicups or shutting off. The problems start when trying to build boost. Still cant get it past 5psi unless I really mash the throttle and then the sputtering and black smoke starts. I couldnt even get it to boost past 5 on the highway in 5th gear! It was like stepping on a brick. It just wouldnt go. The hks bov blows off loud, making me think the car is pushing the air in, but the car will just not make boost. Got her into the garage and pulled the valve cover off since the lifters were ticking a bit. I have to say, when I pulled the vc off, it smelled like the inside of a fuel tank in there. The raw fuel smell was very strong, but oil looked clean and I saw no problems in there. I decided to grab a flash light and cut the lights in the garage and do some meticulous searching in the engine bay. Well, this is what I found.

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The bolts holding the GM maf meter together were just about to fall out; all four of them. A few more turns and they would have fallen out completely. I was able to move the meter back and fourth just enough to see a gap form on each side. I have absolutely no idea how, when or why this happened or if this could even cause the problems I am having. I am thinking at idle, air is being sucked in thru the gap giving me a leaner reading. On boost, it is just the opposite...air is being pushed out which is causing the lag and rich conditions. ANyone care to agree/dissagree with me on this one? I havent tightened it up yet, but should be able to get to it tonight. Thoughts welcome. Thanks again.