Major Oil Burning Issue

[welfle18]

Alright just installed a whole new turbo setup this winter and the problem really came to light. I always smelled oil with the t25 on but it never smoked like it does. When I get on it and shift a huge puff of smoke out the tail pipe. My compression test was 160-155-155-145 and my leak down test come up with no more than 16% air loss, normal according to the gauge. Along with that I didnt hear any air escaping when I did the leak down test. My vacuum is around 20 at idle. No clue what my problem is whether its turbo seals or valve stems. Rings would show up on the compression test right?

 

[grnchevyz]

Compression (if stock internals) should be around 178 with a low limit of 133. Seems to me those reading are a little low with cylinder 4 being very close to the limit. I'd suspect worn/wearing down rings.

Should also note that there should be no more than 12-14psi difference between cylinders. Cylinder 1 to cylinder 4 is 15psi difference.

 

[welfle18]

Would it smoke real bad if I accelerate hard and let off if the rings were bad. That seems to when it smokes the worst. My buddy who builds honda engines thinks it could possibly be bad valve stems but there isnt a puff of smoke on start up. It seems if it were the valve stems were bad there would be smoke on start up from the oil settling in the cylinder. Is there any truth to that?

 

[Auto RS T]

If the valve stem seals were leaking I would expect to see smoke on startup. -Truth to that-

 

[welfle18]

I did a boost leak test a little bit ago and had a few leaks, and while I had the intake pipe off I checked my shaft play and noticed a little in and out, but alot of back and forth play. Probably like a quarter inch or so. I also noticed that I had some oil in the inlet of the turbo. Could this oil maybe lead to my oil burning problem? Would the shaft play and oil in the intake side of the turbo indicate the seals are bad.

 

[JusMX141]

THE TURBO IS JUNK.


Replace it and your smoking problem will cure itself.

 

[welfle18]

Well its a journal bearing turbo would replacing the bearings help out the shaft play at all or is it a lost cause. It still pulls hard and hits hard, I dont know if the would make a difference with the shaft play or what not but could it be rebuilt?

 

[JusMX141]

It may be rebuildable if it's not too late. If the shaft moves far enough to let the wheels hit the housings, you'll probably want to start looking for a new turbo, or seek warranty service if the turbo was bought new.

It's a PTE5031E- you probably killed it with too much oil pressure. The only way these turbos will survive on our cars is if there's a restrictor in the oil line from the filter housing, or if you source the oil supply unrestricted to the head.

PTE recommends all their turbos be fed from the filter housing, yet they suspiciously take a dump on a regular basis when you do so. Perhaps after they warranty every turbo they sell to DSM owners they'll reconsider.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...plete-holset-destruction-2.html#post151812746


The big problem is these turbo manufacturers don't understand the oil pressure differences between new and old engines in our cars. A high-mileage engine with a worn oil pump may not give a T3 turbo enough oil at the head at idle or during light-load driving, but it would be just right unrestricted from the filter housing. A tight engine with a good oil pump would over-oil a journal bearing turbo from the filter housing, but it would be just right unrestricted from the head. There are just too many variables for them to make a proper recommendation that blankets all DSM's.