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main bearings not fitting, need some help fast!

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Jcanapa

15+ Year Contributor
33
0
Jan 31, 2006
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
I have a 95 eclipse gs, 420a. I had the crank polished and got standard size bearings. The bearings I got are cleivite. the lower bearings fit fine. The upper one are bigger. They are not flush with the block. They stick up about .023. Someone told me I had to file them down but never here of this. I checked the part number abd the are standard size. Nothing was every ground. Has anyone ever had this problem before. I really need to get this motor together. Thanks.
 
Did you check the part number on the bearing or on the package? I recently got set of clevite main bearings that were not packaged correctly. The box said the correct part number and the bearing was a different part number.
 
GVR4592 said:
Did you check the part number on the bearing or on the package? I recently got set of clevite main bearings that were not packaged correctly. The box said the correct part number and the bearing was a different part number.


AGREED +1

You should never alter a stock bearing, which meens no filling. Best of luck.
:thumb:
 
Jcanapa said:
I have a 95 eclipse gs, 420a. I had the crank polished and got standard size bearings. The bearings I got are cleivite. the lower bearings fit fine. The upper one are bigger. They are not flush with the block. They stick up about .023. Someone told me I had to file them down but never here of this. I checked the part number abd the are standard size. Nothing was every ground. Has anyone ever had this problem before. I really need to get this motor together. Thanks.


Just for clarification are you saying that the bottom 1/2 of the shell fits correctly but the upper 1/2 shell is almost .025" too small and stand proud?? Are these Rods or Mains? Was / is this a running engine from you car?

Did you save the old bearing shells to see if they were standard?

You can buy some "Plastigage" and lightly torque the caps to get some readings of the backing distance from the bearing to the machined surface. The bearings are meant to crush when torqued so expect some error with the measurments.

You really need to discuss this with Cleivite or the shop that did the crank work but that sounds a bit much for "bearing crush" if they were seated. There is/are some general rules of thumb for bearing crush which I can't remember what the factor is per inch diameter. You may not find thus information in a lot of manuals thus a good automotive machine shop or bearing maker will be your only source.
.............

Many years ago, 40-50 it was not uncommon to file bearings, before inserts we had to babbit (like soldering) and then had to hand scrape them to fit. As machienery improved the process has become refined and unless you have done something non standard then absolutely do not file.

Cheers,
GTM
 
I checked the package and the number was a standard size. I looked at the back of the bearings and it was stamped STD. So its all labled correctly. I mic'ed the crank and its 2.047 which is dead nuts on. I put the bearings in w/o the crank and torqued it down to 55 ft lbs. Then I checked the ID of the bearings and it was 2.037-2.040. It is way to small. Any when I did a mock up the crank was bound up tight.

I called a dealer and they have the ones I need but they want triple the price of any local part store. I could go to a differtent store which carrys a different brand any try theres or just say screw it a go to the dealer.

Any advice.
 
Jcanapa said:
I checked the package and the number was a standard size. I looked at the back of the bearings and it was stamped STD. So its all labled correctly. I mic'ed the crank and its 2.047 which is dead nuts on. I put the bearings in w/o the crank and torqued it down to 55 ft lbs. Then I checked the ID of the bearings and it was 2.037-2.040. It is way to small. Any when I did a mock up the crank was bound up tight.

I called a dealer and they have the ones I need but they want triple the price of any local part store. I could go to a differtent store which carrys a different brand any try theres or just say screw it a go to the dealer.

Any advice.

That "aint gonna" fly. The _STD_ may be correct for another car but it's obviously not right for what you have. It's a good thing you are being so thorough and spotted the error, for sure you have a beef with the supplier / mfg. As I recall Cleivite/ Federal Mogul doesn't have an online catalogue, still you could try a google search with the bearing numbers to see if you get a hit with particular application info. I keep old parts until the job is out the door just for this reason, you have something to compare.

The question is time for you could spend hours doing all the legwork or just go to the known source and grumble at your ever thinning wallet.

Keep us posted on what you find out so others don't have the same problem.

Cheers,
GTM
 
GTM, Thanks for the info. I went down to Dodge to empty put my wallet. I told the guy I needed a set of main bearings. I gave him the VIN # too. The kid comes out with 4 bearings. I asked where the thrust bearing was and he said they didnt have any in stock and it would be 12 days!!!! I even called!

So I went down to Auto Zone and gave them 75.00 of my coin of a set of HI-TECH bearings which will not be in till Tuesaday. I need the motor in the car and running by May 5th. This is becoming a PITA!

How can a bearing sit .023 higher above the bearing set. This doesnt make any since. Of corse my friend says "oh, just file it flat". Has any one had a problem with this before? Has anyone used HI-TECH bearings before?

Any help would be great. Thanks.:cry:
 
Jcanapa said:
GTM, Thanks for the info.
...
How can a bearing sit .023 higher above the bearing set. This doesnt make any since. Of corse my friend says "oh, just file it flat". Has any one had a problem with this before? Has anyone used HI-TECH bearings before?
Any help would be great. Thanks.:cry:

You are welcome, wish I had more info for you.

The reason is as previously stated, it's because they gave you the wrong set for a different car. Since you torqued them down to specs they now have crushed and you may have a problem returning them.

As for you "friend" it's so simple to tell you to file them down. You really don't need crap like that, it's not his money, his engine, his car and when it tears the engine up I'm sure he will be no place to be found. This is not the time for shade tree wanna-be mechanics talking like they are blowing smoke our their arse. It would be hard to find anyone with my background on this or any site so when I tell you this guy is full of it take that to the bank.

Cheers,
GTM
 
GTM,
I cant agree more on the wanna be shade tree machanics. Their are so damn many of them out there. Guys that bolt a part on and say they are capable of engine building.

The one thing that I just thought of is, well 2 things. First of all in the box that the bearing came in there where instructions ( if you need these for doing this your in over your head), anyways, they said " can be just in a 1995 but you need to notch the bearing caps". I did this on the caps, but the caps were'nt the problem. So this is weird. Secondly, I went to afew sites tolook up Cleivte bearings for a 1995 gs and the same part number came up that I had. So either they were stamped wrong or Im just a crack head ### I cant figure it out. Correct part number on bax and back side of bearing, crank mic'ed out standard and nothing cahnged.

Someone I talked to said on the 95 420a they was 2 build dates in 1995. He said that after a certian build date in 95 they changed something to do with the oil releif notches on the bearings. This was a guy from SEAL POWER. Just thought Id toss that in.

Does anyone have any info on this???????????????????????????????????????
 
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