Loud Tapping from 3rd Cylinder

[Apeximprt2nr]

I have a LOUD tapping sound coming from the 3rd cylinder area under the valve cover.
It started one day about a week ago, and it was noticeable and only audible when I was on the gas, the second I got off the gas and coasted it went away. THe next day I was driving and it was louder and I was audible no matter what. I was getting off the highway and popped the car into neutral and the car died.

Did a compression test and it came back, 150-125-150 and cylinder 1 I didn't do because the car battery died.

I'm guessing it's bent valves? I have the timing belt off and am about to take the head off, but before I do I want to make sure I know the problem.

My timing belt is at 7k miles over due its change time.

Before I took the car a part, one last time I started the car and it wouldn't start, but after 4-5 tries I got it to turn over and it would idle with me holding the gas for about 10 seconds and it idled on its own. Very Loud tapping. Oil pressure was perfectly normal and vacuum was normal at -18.

Ideas?

Thanks guys!

 

[RadDsm]

It's it's from the head and not the bottom end, pull the valve cover and check your rockers/lifters.

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

It sounded like it was coming directly under the valve cover on cylinder 3. I have the valve cover off, everything looks normal, if a rocker/lifter was bad, what would be a sign?

 

[RadDsm]

A collapsed lifter, or a rocker that managed to fall off/break.

You could always pull the pan and see if it's a rod bearing.

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

Would one of those cause the drop in cylinder pressure I got from the compression test?

What does a collapsed lifter look like?

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

Anyone?

 

[LiquidX]

A collapsed lifter won't cause a drop in your compression like you are noticing, it would essentially cause that particular valve to be non operation and remain closed.

This is what happened with mine when I had a collapsed lifter.

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The lifter would not hold oil since the internal spring got shifter/siezed up some how. The rocker flew off at some point and was sitting in the area where the arrow is pointing. I was lucky it didn't do any damage but there was a noticeable change in driving and idling with 1 less valve working.

You can see the valve that remained shut on the exhaust side.

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[Apeximprt2nr]

Thanks Liquid. All my rockers are on and everything looks normal. Is it possible a bent/ ####ed up valve would be damaged and the rocker still be in place?

 

[LiquidX]

It's possible, yes. This is just a reason why doing a leak down test is viable so you have an understanding on what may be causing an issue with your compression discrepancy.

I would start with verifying your mechanical timing. Are any rockers loose?

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

Timing belt is off and everything looked normal before I took it off. No rockers are off. Everything looks normal. I'd love for it to be a valve. Taking the head off is much easier than doing any bottom end work.

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

I hate bumping, but I need help guys!

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

1. The Oil pump sprocket will not really come off with me just pulling it. Can I use a pry bar?

2. When I put the 2.3 motor in, are there any things I should do before I finally turn the key? Any procedures or steps to follow?

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

Another problem,

The metal sheet that connects to the main girdle and sits inside the oil pan does not bolt up right to the new main girdle. The bolt holes do not line up. 3 out of the 4 of them do, and they're not even large enough to fit the bolts.

What do I do?

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

New motor is running! But with a few issues...

1. Car is bucking like crazy and won't idle itself. Sounds like an air/boost leak.

2. Car is overheating after driving and/or idling alone for about 10 minutes. I have coolant only in the car. No water. Stock gauge starts to climb, and aftermarket gauge is reading around 205*- 220*. Which doesn't seem too hot. Which gauge should I pay attention to?

I'll post pictures in a few days. I'm so sick of being near my car and working on it. I need a break after 2 months.

 

[airmail96]

I would pay attention to the aftermarket, everyone has there limits of what they like to see but I like to go with over 210 things are getting a little hot. Does it sit at the 220 when it's idling? Does it go down when you continue to drive it? Any white smoke in the exhaust, excessive coolant in the overflow bottle, coolant in the oil?

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

It will get to 180 and sit around there for awhile.

The first time I turned it over ever was tonight. I did the whole 'sit for 15 mins and hold 2-3k RPM's' to break in the seals. While doing that after about 10 mins it started to raise.

Let it cool down. Changed oil. (No coolant in oil). Went for first drive. 180* fro the most part, but after about 10 mins it started to climb again. I didn't really go into boost because I have some bad air leaks that cause the car to buck like crazy.

No white smoke.

Haven't checked the overflow yet.

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

I forgot to plug in the radiator fan connection... Haha

 

[airmail96]

Wow nice easy fix though. Did you get the bucking fixed?

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

I plugged up the EGR nipples that were open and that helped a lot, but the car is still idling real rough and vacuum at idle is around -10 Hg. Car isn't bucking, but I obviously still have some leaks I need to find and fix.