The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners

  • Join the Community!

    DSMtuners is a massive archive of DSM information - but more importantly, it's a COMMUNITY! Join in and participate with other DSMers, and invite all of your DSM friends to make this place their home. Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers. Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. ;)

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support VR-Speed Factory

Engine Loud Clanking/Tapping, Car Knocks, Video posted inside

VTEC_THIS

Proven Member
1,137
19
Jul 20, 2006
Tampa, Florida
I was driving my car hard last night on the highway. First, I started to smell some oil burning, but I didn't think much of it (about half the time my oil dipstick pops up and oil squirts onto the engine bay). Then I look down at my stock oil gauge and it's showing no oil pressure, and the car stalls. I'm in the fast lane of the highway, car stalled, and no way of getting over because I have cars on my right. So I crank the car and it starts back up, I limp it off the highway, the car's running pretty rough on DSMLink it's showing 14 degrees of knock, knocking all over the place. (Normally, the engine never knocks more than 2 degrees tuned.) So I pull over at the first place possible.
I have the car towed home, jacked it up this morning and find out my oil pump harness is disconnected :notgood:. I started the car up and it's making this loud clanking/tapping. I'm guessing with the pump not circulating the oil didn't get to certain parts of the engine. I'm not sure if I damaged something in the head or the block, that's basically why I'm posting. I'm going to drain the oil tomorrow after work and see if there's metal shavings in the oil or not.

During the video when the check engine light comes on, it's knocking around 10 degrees.

http://http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h67/VTEC_THIS/?action=view&current=MVI_1246.flv

Thanks in advance.
 

bpestilence

Proven Member
271
2
Jul 26, 2004
Pearl City, Hawaii
I'm sorry. You spun a main bearing. Might as well start pulling the engine apart, otherwise you will ruin the crank and possibly throw a rod. I had to learn that lesson the hard way when I heard that sound in my Impala...
 

VTEC_THIS

Proven Member
1,137
19
Jul 20, 2006
Tampa, Florida
I just did the spark plug trick, and the noise didn't seem to go away when I pulled out any of the spark plugs. I'm going back out to the garage to drain the oil, if I don't see anything in the oil then I'll remove the oil pan and check that for metal shavings, and then I'll check the rods for movement.
 

VTEC_THIS

Proven Member
1,137
19
Jul 20, 2006
Tampa, Florida
I'm sorry. You spun a main bearing. Might as well start pulling the engine apart, otherwise you will ruin the crank and possibly throw a rod. I had to learn that lesson the hard way when I heard that sound in my Impala...

^^ Just saw your post after I posted. Sorry, I don't want to sound like an idiot, but the bearing is in the block correct? Works with the rod, so I should rebuild the block of the motor?
 

TimG

N/T Moderator
1,548
13
Jun 28, 2002
Aurora, ON_Canada
^^ Just saw your post after I posted. Sorry, I don't want to sound like an idiot, but the bearing is in the block correct? Works with the rod, so I should rebuild the block of the motor?

You'll have to rebuild the whole thing and get every oil passage cleaned from the shavings. Time to empty out the wallet.
 

tqmx1

Proven Member
672
3
Jan 17, 2007
Sacramento, California
I would say it's time to pull the lump and do the bottom end, It will cost sum $$ but at least the top end is fairly fresh (from you bio) so that should not have to be touched.

Good luck.
 

VTEC_THIS

Proven Member
1,137
19
Jul 20, 2006
Tampa, Florida
Drained the oil...metal shavings in it :(. So I guess, I'm going with a 6 bolt. Quick question, do I have to have the head cleaned out? <-- Will there be metal shavings in that as well? I was looking on SBR's website and their 6 bolt shortblocks seem expensive $1800+, would anyone recommend getting a remanufactured shortblock and from where (I'm guessing obviously not the stealership). :toobad:
 

SonySlave

Proven Member
967
72
Jun 24, 2004
Pasadena, Maryland
While you have the motor apart, you may as well take the head apart and get it all cleaned out because you are going to need to get the head surface decked for the new headgasket anyway. Get both the block and head decked and get a MLS headgasket with ARP headstuds. Mitsu MLS, Cometic MLS, and Felpro MLS gaskets all work extremely well. Also, replace the valve stem seals while you are in there and check everything else out.
 

VTEC_THIS

Proven Member
1,137
19
Jul 20, 2006
Tampa, Florida
^^ Thanks for the info. I have some big decisions to make, where to get the engine done, and if I should try doing this myself. Geeze, this sucks. :barf: But I guess it could of happened at a worse time. Wish me luck.
:dsm:
 

onebadtsi

Proven Member
29
0
Feb 27, 2005
Reading, PA, Pennsylvania
I would look into a used 6 bolt. You can find them for pretty cheap in decent shape. Or what I did was I bought a block and crank then pieced together a lower end and reused my 2g head.
Good luck!
 

95blackGsTurbo

DSM Wiseman
5,026
77
Aug 10, 2003
Algona, Iowa
Or you could just rebuild the 7 bolt instead of jumping on the 6 bolt bandwagon like everyone else. Keeps in simple and I have faith in mine as well as all of my friends 7 bolts. I would just get the main journal line honed, get a different crank if yours can't be polished out and get a nice set of rods/pistons.
 

VTEC_THIS

Proven Member
1,137
19
Jul 20, 2006
Tampa, Florida
I'm seriously considering going with sbr 7 bolt stroker kit. I'm not sure which stage yet, I guess I'll call them and see what each is rated to, power wise. I'll bring the block and head to an engine shop by me and have them hot tank and rebuild the block, then hot tank and put in new valve stem seals for the head. Then I'll put it in with a new cometic headgasket. (I already have ARP head studs)
 

bpestilence

Proven Member
271
2
Jul 26, 2004
Pearl City, Hawaii
Well, take the engine apart before you make too many decisions. It may be possible to save the crank and rods that you have, making for an inexpensive rebuild. But if the crank is hosed, might as well go with the stroker kit you were looking at. I look at broken parts as an opportunity to test out some better parts!

The metal shavings in the oil, are they magnetic? (get a magnet and check) If they are non-magnetic, ie, non ferrous, then the material is babbit, the soft stuff the bearing faces are made out of, and you can be relatively sure the crank is okay. If they are magnetic, then you know something is f'ed up. Just a simple test. :thumb:

Oh, and IMHO, there is no reason to go with a 6-bolt. Sure, they have stronger rods, but they also have HEAVIER rods. You trade one thing for another. Most people are just scared away by the crank walk problem, but that is really in a small percentage of engines, and there is a thread pn this site about how to clearance the thrust bearing to make sure it doesn't happen to you.
 

SilverJester

Proven Member
95
1
Aug 31, 2002
IN
Awww man I feel like crying...I was searching around for turbos and came across your ad. Then decided to check on how my old car was doing (god I miss that thing). Oh well good to see you are still modding and enjoying it.

As for the block, I would never throw out a good 7 bolt (because the crankwalk thing is overrated), but if you are putting a new block in it might as well be a 6 bolt...they don't cost anymore and give you that much less to worry about (or at least that much less to hear people complain about when they talk about your car).
 

VTEC_THIS

Proven Member
1,137
19
Jul 20, 2006
Tampa, Florida
Awww man I feel like crying...I was searching around for turbos and came across your ad. Then decided to check on how my old car was doing (god I miss that thing). Oh well good to see you are still modding and enjoying it.

As for the block, I would never throw out a good 7 bolt (because the crankwalk thing is overrated), but if you are putting a new block in it might as well be a 6 bolt...they don't cost anymore and give you that much less to worry about (or at least that much less to hear people complain about when they talk about your car).

Hey Alex! I would of never thought I'd see you on here again, what's going on? Did you end up with another DSM, or get something else? PM me if you wanna talk some more. I've been taking care of the car, put in a 50 trim turbo, sbr cast manifold, sent back magnus's smim to get rewelded (had some cracks on the runners). Put in new carpet, jl sub, boston amp. Just put in a new alternator and accessory belts and this happened. But I'm going to go with slowboys 7 bolt 2.3 stroker kit

http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=2009&cat=2554&page=1

I'm going to bring the block and head in to an engine shop by me and have them hot tank both, rebuild the block and see if the head needs anything replaced. Only problem is putting the new motor in is probably about 3 months away, :cry: I only get paid $10/hour :toobad:.

Well I'll keep everyone updated, and good to see you on the forums Alex :rocks::dsm:
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Feal Suspension Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com OHM Racing Raven Fabrication RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing SouthBay Fuel Injectors STM Tuned VR Speed Factory

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top