loss of power at 5000rpm under boost

[nosdsm3]

It is frustrating this is my first turbo build and I do have a hp walbro. Sure it is easy to give someone money to do it for you but then you don't learn anything yourself, what is the point? So as to your question starfish I am almost set up the same. magnaflow high flow cat, greddy evo 2 cat back, msd blaster ignition coil, ngk plugs, nology sp wires.
Garrett ar 45 t3/t4 turbo - Treastone turbo manifold - Treadstone polished 1.5' dump tube - Treadstone 2.5' down pipe - Tial 38mm external wastegate - HKS SSQV blowoff valve with adapter pipe - Treadstone TR8 Front Mount Intercooler - Polished Aluminum intercooler piping with Treadstone silicone hoses - Glowshift Black series boost gauge, oil temp, and oil pressure, - K&N air filter with Missing Link fuel cut defender - Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump , TurboXS manual boost controller,bloxs 12:1 fpr. I have a uego on the way and a treadstone fcd. I will continue to trudge on through this project, and I will make it work.

 

[starfish]

Thanks for those answers.Sorry about all these questions but Every body keeps tellin me its wires and plugs,and I tried like 6 different combos of wires and plugs and nothing helped.I really feel like its fc.I'm done talkin about this crap.I'll let U guys know what happens as soon as my FCD,and new pump and filter gets here.Would I have to use different(HP) fuel lines for a HP pump?Last question,I PROMISS!

You are allmost exactlly the same accept I went with a cheap ebay turbo and I bought the wrong fpump.And i'm not givin up on this project even if my wife is making me sleep out side for all the money I spent on this car.This car was headed for the crusher.I had to cut the whole front clip off and weld on another one.Then a new motor ,then a turbo,and everything that goes with it.the only thing original is the interior.I can't give up now!96 shell,95 front clip,98 lights and motor.Actually Ive rebuilt quite a few heavy equiptment turbos and the ebay turbo dont look that bad on the inside.How long it will last remains to be seen!

 

[nosdsm3]

Good luck starfish and thanks for the help guys.

 

[starfish]

You too!

 

[rstare]

Starfish, I'm telling you that it isn't fuel cut. It's the last time I'm going to say it, and hopefully you'll believe me When you hit fuel cut you'll be at 1-2psi at the most.

Nodsm, you'll have to describe what exactly you're experiencing more in depth in order for me to give you a proper response. If it has differences what starfish is experiencing, start a new thread and I'll be happy to help. If it's similar you should continue it in this thread.

 

[starfish]

I want to believe its something else but when I disconect the turbo from my intake I can get the rpms up to 6000 without any issues.Runs fine without the turbo accept the (lean at idle issue)Plus I had a cheap godspeed BG that aready got stuck at full vacume(piece of shit).So I might not be gettin as much boost as I thought I was gettin.I can drive the car but I have to shift at 3000rpm so it doesnt keep happening.I'm not trying to prove you wrong I just cant see it being any thing else.Do you think the low pressure 255 could cause this?Wires,plugs ,coil,ECU,relays,on the firewall,are all brand spankin new.

 

[rstare]

Oh, Starfish, when will you listen?
The reason it runs fine without the turbo connected is because your engine isn't seeing boost, therefore neither is the FMU. If the FMU doesn't see boost it won't increase the fuel pressure, so it will remain at around 50psi. This means the fuel pump will never need to put out any pressure higher than that, so it will be able to supply enough fuel throughout the entire powerband.
Also, just to warn you. You reallllly shouldn't disconnected your intake pipe from your turbo and just run it like that. Your turbo is still connected to the exhaust, so it will spool up. Not only will it continue to spool up, the vacuum line that the wastegate is connected to will never see positive pressure, so the wastegate will never open, causing it to continue to spool. It also has no restricition so it will free spin, meaning it has no load so the turbo is going to be spinning waaaay beyond the RPMs it was designed to. This is extremely devistating to a turbo and can ruin it rather quickly.

 

[starfish]

I did put a couple old socks around my intake piping with duct tape when I tried it.If not FC then what is it.

 

[rstare]

I did put a couple old socks around my intake piping with duct tape when I tried it.If not FC then what is it.

I'm not too sure what you're saying you did... :/
Just be sure you don't just disconnect your intake piping from your turbo, unless you're trying to destroy it.

Just put the fuel pump in before you open any other parts.

 

[starfish]

I plugged up the intake piping so that there was pressure on the turbo.But not too much so it wouldn't blow off.I'm dying to try the pump first, but my pump is coming at the end of the week,and my FCD will be here tomorrow.

 

[rstare]

So, you disconnected your intake pipe at the throttle body? And stuffed a sock into you the intake pipe you disconnected?
Again, not good. The only way you should disconnect your turbo is removing it from the exhaust stream.

 

[LD25Delta9]

I would like to apologize if I sounded rude. I didn't mean to come off that way. I suppose I'm getting crochety. I just hate to see money and advice wasted. Theories don't always pan out too well in the realm of boost. If you are having trouble figuring out which advice to take, there is a reputation rating that is approved by mods. I'm no guru, but I do know my way around the 420a fairly well. If you want guru knowledge, talk to BulletDSM, Locke, All_Motor_Mike or Velocita Paola. If they decide to chime in, you know you are getting rock solid advice. Think of this forum as a Bible: All the answers are there...for the most part, and anything you don't think it covered very well, ask one of the Preachers. You can tell who the men of the cloth are by the reputation ratings, and the Wiseman tag....I know boosted I4's are way different than big block displacement, it can be tough making the transition or just expanding your horizons. Good luck to you and your build mate.

 

[starfish]

It was the only way I could try the car without boost and still keep pressure on the turbo so I wouldn't over do it.I did work for the test.But I'm smart enought that I'm not gonna drive it like that.Any way the motor didn't cut ou like It did under boost.CI Motor sports is killin me!I ordered the pump and filter on the 14th and they still havn't email me any shippin info.Ive been callin them for 2 days and haven't had any luck talkin to any body.Has any body ever had problems orderin with this company?

 

[nosdsm3]

I never ordered from them, but waiting for parts is always tough.

 

[rstare]

Yes, I realize you were running a test, sometimes that's all it takes to screw things up, though.
I explained several posts ago why you didn't experience the cut out that you did while under boost.
CI is known for long waits, yes.

 

[starfish]

Well I got my new 255 HP and a new filter.I installed the pump and filter and my car still idles lean,No change what so ever! Driving at normal speeds and under boost is fine.Under boost is about 10-11 on my WB gauge and normal driving is between 14-15 on the WB.As for the FC,I decided to hang my FCD from my rearview mirror for decoration.You guys were RIGHT.I dont think it was the Fuel pump because I found out that both of my pumps are high pressure.They both say GSS342.But I'm guessing it was the fuel filter.I never changed the filter from when I had water in my tank.Now I changed it and there is no more cut!I guess I'll learn the hard way! Is it normal to idle lean?If not what would make it do that?

 

[rstare]

Well I got my new 255 HP and a new filter.I installed the pump and filter and my car still idles lean,No change what so ever! Driving at normal speeds and under boost is fine.Under boost is about 10-11 on my WB gauge and normal driving is between 14-15 on the WB.As for the FC,I decided to hang my FCD from my rearview mirror for decoration.You guys were RIGHT.I dont think it was the Fuel pump because I found out that both of my pumps are high pressure.They both say GSS342.But I'm guessing it was the fuel filter.I never changed the filter from when I had water in my tank.Now I changed it and there is no more cut!I guess I'll learn the hard way! Is it normal to idle lean?If not what would make it do that?

Please post this in your old thread, so that it will be useful to future searchers.

How lean is your idle?
Fuel filter was one of the other things we mentioned multiple times, I thought you had changed that after your little methanol incident.
Anyway, congrats on your fix.

 

[2gGSXEclipse]

Sould idle at 12:1 on a cold start and around 13:1 on a warm start. Congrats on the fix

 

[starfish]

on a cold start shes about 12.1,but when she warms up she hoovers around 16.0-16.2.If I take out the stock FPR and replace it with a AFPR And turn the pressure up some,will she richin up some?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I've merged your threads. Please don't start new threads to discuss the resolutions to problems from old threads.

 

[starfish]

Well, I'm back to the same bullshit! Pump and filter did not fix the FC issue.When The car starts making boost ,pops and hesitates alittle,and feels like the engine stops untill I let off the pedal,then it goes back to normal.If I drive it,Given it half throttle through the gears every thing is okay.Also when I'm making any boost it gets very lean.Any more Ideas?

 

[rstare]

Well, I'm back to the same bullshit! Pump and filter did not fix the FC issue.When The car starts making boost ,pops and hesitates alittle,and feels like the engine stops untill I let off the pedal,then it goes back to normal.If I drive it,Given it half throttle through the gears every thing is okay.Also when I'm making any boost it gets very lean.Any more Ideas?

Firstly, your AFR's will go richer on start up because cold air is denser. So, that's about normal, I suppose. (Mine's a little richer) The 16+:1 during idle is kinda weird, though. Mine's about 15:1. List everything you have altered/replaced in the fuel system since you're methanol incident. (That includes replacing a part with an OEM part)

Addressing your above post; was working when you first replaced the pump/filter, or did it never work?

 

[starfish]

I replaced my fuel pump with a 255 hp,OEM FF.I have Blox 12:1FMU between the fpr and the tank(line commin out the bottom of fmu goes to the tank,side goes to fpr)and the vacline is tied into my brake booster line(hard line,NO kinks).Ive tried everything! So I ordered a OBX fuel rail because I'm pretty sure mine is leeking.Were the fuel line attaches to the FR there are two little bolts.one is stripped alittle.and when I turn my car off I can hear hissing commin from were my injectors go into the rail.So I plane on usin the new rail-AFPR with gauge mounted on hood-FMU-SS braided line goin back to tank.I'm just waitin on the fuel rail.Someone said it might be my plugs or wires so I just bought new plugs and just put them in(6:05am).Denso platinum.They didnt have ngk 7's nor could they even order them for some reason so he checked his computer and these were a good colder plug,but expensive$28 for 4 plugs.It might be the Noligy wires.There is another guy having the same problem as me.He has the same set up as me and also has the noligy wires. OH YEH, when I changed the new pump and filter I lost that bad fuel cut out,but now I cant drive revin past 4000rpm( motor starts missin)If I drive it givin it half throttle all the time she runs beautiful,even makes perfect boost up to 7 psi.But as soon as I put the pedal to the floor it cuts out again and starts missin.Could my stock fpr be bad?When I put on my AFPR will I be able to richen it up by adjusting the pressure?

 

[rstare]

It sounds like you've done everything correctly.
The problem with adding a AFRP, is that they are also a rising rate regulator. (They have a 1:1 RR) You will then have two rising rate regulators, giving you a 13:1 rising rate altogether.
Your FPR keeps a consistent fuel pressure, so if your car is running good at all over aspects, then your FPR is probably fine.
If you hear a noise, start searching for vacuum leaks. If your fuel line was leaking you would see fuel somewhere.
It's starting to seem like you have more of a sensor problem. It's weird that changing the fuel pump would fix it temporarily. Check that your TPS first, make sure it's reading correctly.

 

[starfish]

Can I us the afpr without hookin up the vac line to it(just plug it off).If that wont work,what fpr can I use?I'm definately runnin a new fuel line from my new fuel rail so I can put my FMU under my hood(tired of jackin the car up to check the vac line)!I also would like a fpr under the hood also .All my sensors should be fine,I'm not throwin any codes.The only one that worries me is the water temp sensor.It threw a code at me after I changed my plugs.I erased it and it never came back yet.You think my FMU is not workin properly.It feels like it happens every time the car starts making boost over 3 psi.As soon as I get around 3psi my WB gauge goes lean all the way(---).When I let off the gas it goes back to 10.5-11.the gauge stays in that area untill I get up to 3 psi.You dont think the FCD would fix this?I still have it in the delivery box.

could my fuel injectors be screwed up(from the methanol incident)?I have another set I could try when I switch the fuel rails.