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djmixerx

20+ Year Contributor
325
0
Oct 16, 2002
SF BaY Area!, California
Finally got my JMF manifold from one of the vendors. Nice piece of work and a great price. I was wondering on the inside looks like the scratched up the metal on the inside for some reason. Bad material or form and function? Also what did you use your nipples for? I know is for brake booster. How did you route the other 3? I need like vacuum for like MAP, boost gauge, FPR, Boost controller, PCV, and BOV. I think thats it. What size did they drill out the brass fittings too? Should I make another hole for vacuum?


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You mean.. JMF manifold from JNZ?

And one line goes to brake booster
another to BOV (make sure nothing is tee'd into this)
another to FPR (tee into this)
and the other for a map sensor if you are doing speed density.

The wastegate should have its own reference point from an intercooler pipe.
If you had too.. you could tie into a port from the manifold. Just make sure the BOV and wastegate each get their own lines, with nothing tee'd into them.
 
I meant JMF not from JNZ. Hmm I always had something teed off from the BOV to 3bar sensor. I need more ports then!!!

So the boost controller should be from the IC piping vacuum source? Then go to the WG?

Another thing what should I use to seal my brass fittings? I dont really like Teflon tap. I perfer paste or RTV. Which one should I use?
 
Well it is a misconception that teflon tape is a sealer. It is NOT, it is only a lubricant. RTV works great for sealing the fitting to the IC pipe.

You should be fine T'ing off a MAP sensor to the BOV, as long as the T is pretty close to the intake manifold. This is because the BOV releases the pressure in the line, and anything T'd in will monetarily see a pressure drop. Having it close to the intake manifold will help prevent this. Also, the BOV only does this when you let off the throttle. When you let off the throttle, the fuel injectors shut off anyways.. so no harm would be done if there is a momentary engine load "blip."
 
I used teflon paste ### the rtv didnt look like it was gonna seal the fittings that well. So this is how im going to plumb the vacuum lines

1 Brake boost
2 FPR - T - Boost gauge
3 Bov - T - 3bar
4 MBC

Does that work out?
 
I was wondering on the inside looks like the scratched up the metal on the inside for some reason. Bad material or form and function?


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Looks to me like the metal was drilled and tapped before it was welded together and the fabricator actually took the time to smooth/remove any burrs with a grinder. Good stuff.
 

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Uhh.. it helps with sealing because you can thread the fittings in more.

If you don't believe me. Go by 4 fittings.. and tighten two together without, and two with the teflon "sealer" (ROFL). The one with the lubricant can be tightened much further than the one without tape. And seeing as the female fittings have a slight flare to them.. they will give a tighter seal.

EDIT:
And.. did you even READ the link you posted? LOL

"One of the defining characteristics of PTFE is how good it is at defeating friction. The use of PTFE tape in tapered pipe threads performs a lubricating function, which more easily allows the threads to be screwed together, to the point of deformation, which is what creates the majority, if not all, of the seal."

When you try to prove a point.. don't post links proving mine!
 
Most turbos have a nipple on the compressor housing. Some j-pipes have this as well.

There is a big debate whether it should be before or after the intercooler, and I have my reasons to show why it should be before. However, it will work if it is referenced after your intercooler (in the manifold).
 
So I installed my JMF and its now hitting my brake fluid reservoir. On my old manifold it didnt have a problem now i have a situation. What did you guys do? Did I order the wrong one? Is this 2g JMF shorter? Could I bought the 2g JMF with a 1g flange?
 
This is how it looks with the new JMF and newly coated ERL manifold. Bling!!!

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Damn battery died on me! or it would be completed today. Look at the clutter.
 

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That looks really good! Only thing keeping me away from a smim is the bling, aren't you worried about getting popped?

Kinda. Im SF its not that bad. *Knock on wood* Everything in my car not legal so if they did pop my hood I would be screwed neways.

Bender its just jet hot coated. Standard silver that they carry. It was done locally to me. Got my DP, manifold, turbine housing and dump tube done.

So after today I found some new problems the throttle body screws are leaking and also my BISS screw. What did you use to seal the throttle body bolts with? How can you see air leaking from the barbs when water hits you in the face or eye.
 
Did you hear about that trick from a muscle car forum or something. I heard it from a friend that doing a V8 swap into a 240(Blue-tite that is). LOL good to know lucky I didnt use my sis bright pink nail polish.
 
Uhh.. it helps with sealing because you can thread the fittings in more.

If you don't believe me. Go by 4 fittings.. and tighten two together without, and two with the teflon "sealer" (ROFL). The one with the lubricant can be tightened much further than the one without tape. And seeing as the female fittings have a slight flare to them.. they will give a tighter seal.

EDIT:
And.. did you even READ the link you posted? LOL

"One of the defining characteristics of PTFE is how good it is at defeating friction. The use of PTFE tape in tapered pipe threads performs a lubricating function, which more easily allows the threads to be screwed together, to the point of deformation, which is what creates the majority, if not all, of the seal."

When you try to prove a point.. don't post links proving mine!



Teflon tape lubricates to point where the threads start crossing and deforming, it is still a good seal though..Your both right.

But i think red loctite at the tip of the fitting threads, and blue rtv nearest the nipple portion of the fitting is the best sealer. This is what I used to seal my high pressure oil channel when my 7-bolt oil pump was modded to my 6-bolt block.
 
I have always used studs on my manifold, sealed with brown permatex gasket maker. I then use nuts and washers to hold the throttle body to the studs.

As for the BISS screw, run a 1g throttlebody in order to get full gains of that intake manifold!

Or you can replace the o-ring behind.

I have a 1g trottlebody forsale that has been ported to 63mm, and the halfshaft mod which brings it closer to 65.5mm of airflow. Also includes a FIAV blockoff to eliminate those annoying coolant lines.

This is what it is:63mm Throttle Body 1G DSM Eclipse/Talon :eBay Motors (item 120510731438 end time Jan-25-10 18:20:14 PST)

Only about 1000 miles on it. Send me a PM if you're interested.
 
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