Looking for Upgraded Trans Internals

[DSMsamurai666]

Anyone know where I can purhcase some trans internals to rebuild my own trans to hold more power? I can't seem to find anything online although I didn't really expect to.

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

auto or stick??? need more information man

 

[DSMsamurai666]

Sorry. 92' GSX Manual. I'm also looking to push pretty high power. I'm not completely sure yeat, but I'm thinking aroung 7 or 8 hundred horse. I'm working on the unibody and suspension right now. I don't even have the motor started. I'm just thinking ahead.

 

[My1GLaser]

You can go here Jacks Transmissions LLC — Mits Parts

 

[duwackerTSi69]

Or you can check out Team RIP..
GENUINE MITSUBISHI TRANSMISSION PARTS

 

[deerhunter0881]

I only heard great things about jacks, from like 10 people on this site. When I get the money that's were I'm going.

 

[duwackerTSi69]

I only heard great things about jacks, from like 10 people on this site. When I get the money that's were I'm going.

How can you say you only heard great things from Jacks? No good ones about TRE?? Not dogging ya, but they both offer exceptional products.

On a side note.. Have you ever rebuilt a trans before? Ill tell ya, you gotta get all your clearance's right for the bearing preloads, center diff preloads etc.. If not, then you'll be in the same boat I was just in. Gaurenteed failure. It's easy to take em apart. but to get it right the first time and not have to worry about it again is another question. Take it from me and lots of other people who have attempted this, and save your self a head ache and have one of them rebuild yours and get the warranty.. You can get the stage 1 or economy rebuild for less then a $1000 including shipping. But now that I see your wanting 7-800 hp, you better know what your doing if you do it yourself. Save your self the hassle and save $1800 and get a good rebuild with a 4 spider gear diff, gear detail work, shot peening and some double synchro's.. Not being a dick but giveing my $.02 cents..
Good luck bro

 

[deerhunter0881]

I have not heard about TRE, what does it stand for. I only heard about jacks and shep. tell me more about TRE thanks

 

[my4ATEurV8]

tre stands for team rip engineering! i was actualy just at the TRE shop getting a tour and a full detailed explanation in person by the people who actualy do the builds. john (the TRE head honcho) built a guy a trans that is going over 200 mph. this guy has been on the same trans for 3 years, and its still going good. theres also a guy on a TRE trans that does consecutive 8 second passes. ill get more info on that for you tomorrow, like a dyno sheet and time slip with a write up on what was done to his trans.
i did an awfull lot of research trying to figur out which trans to get when i ordered mine. my choices were shep, jacks, and TRE. spoke with all of them on the phone asking tons of questions and i ended up with a built to the teeth TRE. i would highly recomend checking them out. WELCOME TO TRE## WE SPECIALIZE IN MANUAL TRANSMISSION REPAIR
269-382-2669
i actualy ordered one from him TRE over a year ago and i seriously beat the shit out of this thing, and not a single problem. i went to his shop because im now using a 2.4 magnus motor and want to do slightly taller gearing.

 

[deerhunter0881]

oh ok I will check them out when the times comes thanks So i guess out of the 3 you picked tre why price,parts,name,location???

 

[my4ATEurV8]

im not going to try and be there sales rep or anything but i will tell you this. i spoke to all of them on the phone for a combined maybe around a couple hours apiece. i ended up going with the TRE trans. im not saying that any of the other competitors transmissions are bad. im just saying that my research led me to team rip. you should also check out the major gear detail work that TRE does and also polishing and shot peening. give them a call and check out there site. john is an awsome conversationalist and will tell you things about our trannies that you didnt even know you wanted to know. good luck wit hthe build man and i hope this post helps

 

[my4ATEurV8]

GalantVR-4.org: Bonneville Galant exposed
SEVERE_DUTY_HIGH_TORQUE_TRANSMISSION_INFO
here is some info on that 200 pluss mph car i was tellin you about

 

[deerhunter0881]

thanks man I will, like all other dsmers have no money right now. Doing my car in small steps trying not piss off the wife, If I spend a little here and a little there .she doesn't know how much money is in the car already.

 

[my4ATEurV8]

dude thats hilarious. story of my life. my fiance was pissed when she found out how much my 2.4 magnus build was. lets just say i i didnt get any worm apple pie for a while.

 

[duwackerTSi69]

tre stands for team rip engineering! i was actualy just at the TRE shop getting a tour and a full detailed explanation in person by the people who actualy do the builds. john (the TRE head honcho) built a guy a trans that is going over 200 mph. this guy has been on the same trans for 3 years, and its still going good. theres also a guy on a TRE trans that does consecutive 8 second passes. ill get more info on that for you tomorrow, like a dyno sheet and time slip with a write up on what was done to his trans.
i did an awfull lot of research trying to figur out which trans to get when i ordered mine. my choices were shep, jacks, and TRE. spoke with all of them on the phone asking tons of questions and i ended up with a built to the teeth TRE. i would highly recomend checking them out. WELCOME TO TRE## WE SPECIALIZE IN MANUAL TRANSMISSION REPAIR
269-382-2669
i actualy ordered one from him TRE over a year ago and i seriously beat the shit out of this thing, and not a single problem. i went to his shop because im now using a 2.4 magnus motor and want to do slightly taller gearing.

Damn c-uz, dont forget I was ther by your side when we got the full detailed TOUR the other day!!!! S-HIT was awesome..

Once you get Jon(Owner of TRE) talking about something(especially tranny's), you can't get hime to shut up.. Ill be ordering my stage 2.5 with the super synchro's, Evo 3 1st and 5th gear along with the 4 spider diff by the end of this week(hopefully)..

My brother is my4ATEurV8, and ill tell ya, he has the TRE trans and he beats the cra-p out of his car and his trans still shifts like butter.. 20k of straight up abuse..

just check out the site and decide for your self. Iv read the entire websites from TRE, Jacks and Shep.. Shep is way to over priced in my mind, Jacks is cool but TRE is not to far away and they are extremely competitive in pricing and giving you the upgrades you want and need..

Good luck

 

[dsmmatt28]

How can you say you only heard great things from Jacks? No good ones about TRE?? Not dogging ya, but they both offer exceptional products.

On a side note.. Have you ever rebuilt a trans before? Ill tell ya, you gotta get all your clearance's right for the bearing preloads, center diff preloads etc.. If not, then you'll be in the same boat I was just in. Gaurenteed failure. It's easy to take em apart. but to get it right the first time and not have to worry about it again is another question. Take it from me and lots of other people who have attempted this, and save your self a head ache and have one of them rebuild yours and get the warranty.. You can get the stage 1 or economy rebuild for less then a $1000 including shipping. But now that I see your wanting 7-800 hp, you better know what your doing if you do it yourself. Save your self the hassle and save $1800 and get a good rebuild with a 4 spider gear diff, gear detail work, shot peening and some double synchro's.. Not being a dick but giveing my $.02 cents..
Good luck bro

I have built several trannys with no problems. I just got done with a custom build for my car. 94 awd tranny, 96+ 2nd gear with double syncros. new hub and sliders for 1-2 and 3-4. I have the 91/92 3/4 gear set. Tranny shifts like like a warm knife through butter. If you take your time and pay attention its not very hard at all.

To the original poster. It doesn't matter who you go with when you start getting 450 hp plus there is a good possibility it will break. Mitsubishi didn't design these transmission with the thought that guys like us where going to be putting down 450 hp through them. Especially if your talking about making 700hp. I have shattered 3/4 gears on hwy pulls not even launching. It doesn't matter who you go with shep, tre. jacks or whether you go with evo stuff or build it your self. It will break its just a matter of time and when. Your best bet is to go with something similar what i have ,but get your gears cyro treated, shot pened or micro polished etc etc. Just dont expect to get 50,ooo miles out of a tranny that your going be making 700hp with.

 

[donniekak]

I have built several trannys with no problems. I just got done with a custom build for my car. 94 awd tranny, 96+ 2nd gear with double syncros. new hub and sliders for 1-2 and 3-4. I have the 91/92 3/4 gear set. Tranny shifts like like a warm knife through butter. If you take your time and pay attention its not very hard at all.

To the original poster. It doesn't matter who you go with when you start getting 450 hp plus there is a good possibility it will break. Mitsubishi didn't design these transmission with the thought that guys like us where going to be putting down 450 hp through them. Especially if your talking about making 700hp. I have shattered 3/4 gears on hwy pulls not even launching. It doesn't matter who you go with shep, tre. jacks or whether you go with evo stuff or build it your self. It will break its just a matter of time and when. Your best bet is to go with something similar what i have ,but get your gears cyro treated, shot pened or micro polished etc etc. Just dont expect to get 50,ooo miles out of a tranny that your going be making 700hp with.

Quoted for truth. People that don't build transmissions have no clue how small our gears are compared to a true performance box. A lot of people get the double synchro 3-4 not realizing that the late 91, early 92 3-4 single synchro is actually a lot stronger. The problem with dsm transmissions when it comes down to it is size. No matter what you do to them or what gears you use they will always be smaller than a good performance gearset. The formula i have found to keep a trans together is a large turbo, and big cams. The secret is to make as much power as possible, with the least amount of torque. A 16g let loose on e-85 can easily spike 450 ft/lbs, while putting less than 400 hp to the wheels. A big turbo, and some 288 cams can make 600hp, with the same amount of torque. I build all of my own, and a good bit for others. The most practical option is the 91-92 gearset, shotpeened gears, welded center diff, and shimmed at least 2-3x stock preload for the shafts. I never understood why the input shaft with tapered roller bearings, was set with endplay from the factory.

 

[dsmmatt28]

I set my preloads a little tighter than stock.On this tranny build I set the preload to .01 on the input shaft and mitsu spec is 0-.05 endplay. I figure with the heat of the trany it will expand just a bit and put it somewhere back in the endplay side of specs. On the interemediate it calls for .08-.13. I set mine up to .14 preload again taking into consideration of the expansion of the case. When I build a tranny for someone local or a buddy I try different preloads. I have realized that setting them a couple of thousands more than stock works fine and shifts great. The trick to building a tranny is knowing what what parts and years work with what. Im still learning. The easest way is to down load the C.A.P.S program and then you can compare part number and know more or less what will work and what wont. When you go and put the case back together and it doesnt close right that means one of the gears are binding up the pitch is wrong. Like I said take your time pay attention. And grab a Mitsu service manual if you havent already!

 

[duwackerTSi69]

I have built several trannys with no problems. I just got done with a custom build for my car. 94 awd tranny, 96+ 2nd gear with double syncros. new hub and sliders for 1-2 and 3-4. I have the 91/92 3/4 gear set. Tranny shifts like like a warm knife through butter. If you take your time and pay attention its not very hard at all.

To the original poster. It doesn't matter who you go with when you start getting 450 hp plus there is a good possibility it will break. Mitsubishi didn't design these transmission with the thought that guys like us where going to be putting down 450 hp through them. Especially if your talking about making 700hp. I have shattered 3/4 gears on hwy pulls not even launching. It doesn't matter who you go with shep, tre. jacks or whether you go with evo stuff or build it your self. It will break its just a matter of time and when. Your best bet is to go with something similar what i have ,but get your gears cyro treated, shot pened or micro polished etc etc. Just dont expect to get 50,ooo miles out of a tranny that your going be making 700hp with.

I can understand wher you are comming from. And I am sure you are confident with your mechanical work that you do. All I was saying is that not everyone can swap out turbo's, change their oil etc,etc.. Reading the OP's thread post's and responses from the past, it seemed to me that he should just pay some one for a rebuild and get the gaurentee. Thats all. Maybe he can do it himself and it would last a coupla years?? Maybe not

Think about this also.. The OP did not even know who TRE was or what it meant.. And no offense, I wouldn't want that guy comming near my tranny!!

Quoted for truth. People that don't build transmissions have no clue how small our gears are compared to a true performance box. A lot of people get the double synchro 3-4 not realizing that the late 91, early 92 3-4 single synchro is actually a lot stronger. The problem with dsm transmissions when it comes down to it is size. No matter what you do to them or what gears you use they will always be smaller than a good performance gearset. The formula i have found to keep a trans together is a large turbo, and big cams. The secret is to make as much power as possible, with the least amount of torque. A 16g let loose on e-85 can easily spike 450 ft/lbs, while putting less than 400 hp to the wheels. A big turbo, and some 288 cams can make 600hp, with the same amount of torque. I build all of my own, and a good bit for others. The most practical option is the 91-92 gearset, shotpeened gears, welded center diff, and shimmed at least 2-3x stock preload for the shafts. I never understood why the input shaft with tapered roller bearings, was set with endplay from the factory.

And as you may be right also. But someone is going to send this guy on a self taught transmission building goose chase.. I dont think thats a verry wise idea at all.

And not to mention that not everyone has a big enough shop press to press off all them bearing's and gear clusters?? And a couple of other special tools he'll need in the process of just dismantling the whole assembly.. I have Genuine Mitsubishi Service Manuals vol.1-3 and even with those it was a guessing game..

Now on to your gear selection. Im not saying it's the worst or best idea to use them specific years of gears. I am confident in saying that if you call up Jon over at TRE, he'll talk circle's around you and take ya to school on reasons for certain gears and reasons not to use them, especially with an "allegid" 700hp beast.(he's been doing it for 20 years, just on dsm transmissions alone..) Then you need to think about clutch selection. Try tellin Jon that your going to use so and so clutch with so and so gear set up and no doubt you'll break things alot sooner then you want.. Then your back to tearing the trans outts the car and back in square 1. But if it is working for you, then keep it up. Every one is diff in certain areas of things..


To the OP, just give TRE or Jacks a call and just talk to the guys and explain what you want and what you intend to do with the car.. I list them 2 only because that's who I have spent time on the phone with, and for people who have also, know that once you get them talking about this kind of talk, ther is no shutting them up?? They are veeerrryyyy insightfull and will bring things to your attention that you never figuired would matter... All I know is that I would want either of them building my trans.. Good luck bro

 

[duwackerTSi69]

I set my preloads a little tighter than stock.On this tranny build I set the preload to .01 on the input shaft and mitsu spec is 0-.05 endplay. I figure with the heat of the trany it will expand just a bit and put it somewhere back in the endplay side of specs. On the interemediate it calls for .08-.13. I set mine up to .14 preload again taking into consideration of the expansion of the case. When I build a tranny for someone local or a buddy I try different preloads. I have realized that setting them a couple of thousands more than stock works fine and shifts great.

If bearing preloads are loose, they will live a long time, but the gears will not. Tranny gears are always trying to push themselves away from each other, so when the bearings are loose, only the edge of the gear tooth is used. When preloads are tight, it keeps the gears together tight, so they will use the thickest part of the tooth and handle more power and more miles. We have found that the aluminum tranny case expansion due to temperature changes is linear. We set all preloads to be too tight at room temps so when the case warms and expands, the bearings will be right at their sweet spot! We have the preloads set during assembly at room temps so when the tranny reaches normal operating temps they will be right on the money. We try to find 0-.001" too tight at 220F. This way when the car is warmed up and driven hard the bearing is not under enough load to die, and the gears will be happy. Plus, you will notice smoother up-shifting.
^^this is according to jacks website.. Id hope you were doing the preloads right, if not then you should know what happens?? And even then, your preloads are not what they set them at