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looking for turbo to get me to 400 whp with 2.4l

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bsbllfit7

10+ Year Contributor
1,104
3
Feb 17, 2009
Salem, Oregon
hey everyone im trying to get some thoughts from you guys on what turbo to run with my new 2.4l setup. I do have some requirements for the turbo. I want to run as low as boost as possible to get to this level. Also i want to have a streetable spool. Now i have been searching and have came across the fp green as a good turbo to fit this mold. Also the hx35 but i would be running quite a bit of boost to get to that level. The reason i want to keep the boost as low as possible is to extend the life of the turbo. When i say low boost i mean 20-25psi. Nothing crazy like 30+ psi. Lets hear what you guys have to say. I want to stay with the mitsu flange so a fp race manifold is in the mix shortly hear.
 
Boost doesn't directly added the life of the turbo until you are out of it's efficiency range. Larger the turbo the less boost you need to run but you won't be in any compressor map islands where ou need to be.

The Holset Hx35 and 40 don't wake up until AFTER 25psi. Not to mention just about any turbo bolted to a 2.4L will become practically a street turbo except the largest of the turbos you can fit.


Go on the members page and select dyno/HP challenge and search for your hp goal and compare turbos and setups.
 
i have done that and saw that the hx40 is in this range as well as the hx35 closing in on maxing out. Also with the hx35 or hx40 id need to go with a t3 manifold to reach these numbers i believe. I read the 50 trims will get me to this range. The life of most 50 trims is not so favorable except for the fp green/red. I am leaning towards and fp green. Looking to achieve a conservative 400whp tune with room to go crazy. What can the hx40 with BEP housing achieve and how is the spool? This is another option that i am looking at
 
Get a a green...my brother runs a red and it hits violently at 24psi...i believe he made 480ish but he also uses pro efi and a tuner thats freaking amazing
 
I made 465 on a hx35 at 6k rpm and then the tach signal came loose. You can easily made 400 on 25-30lbs plus these turbos are built to last. They come off diesel trucks which run them 200k+ miles.
 
i would go for the hx35 or maybe a 20g. you would definitely have more room to expand with the hx35, especially if you run e85.
 
the only problem with running the hx35 is gonna be ill have to upgrade my manifold to a t3 manifold to get anything more than a evo3's worth out of the turbo. Im looking to stay lower in cost and more bolt on. I am leaning towards a 20g because its direct bolt on and will get me in to the upper 300 hp and possibly with an awesome tune to low 400. I also heard the spool on a 2.4 is about 3000 to be spooled on the 20g.
 
It seems like BEP's bolt on housing should put you well above a 16G.

Summary provided by wiseman, Dsm-onster:

HX35:

The 8blade hx35 has a 56mm compressor inducer. This is found on 1995-1998 cummins manual pickups. The compressor flows 52 lb/min according to the compressor map. The bolton BEP housing (0.55 a/r) is enough to push the limit of the compressor. There's several 500whp 8blade hx35 cars out there with the bolt on housing. It reaches 20+psi by 3500rpms in 3rd with 272 cams. Smaller cams would equal a faster spool speed in most cases.

The 7blade hx35 has a 56mm compressor inducer. This is found on the 1999-2002 cummins manual pickups. The compressor flows 60lb/min according to the compressor map and logged results from a member here. The bolton BEP housing with the hx35 turbine wheel do not SEAM to have enough flow to really reach the potential of 60lb/min. But many have logged over 50lb/min so far and seen 500whp. The stock hx35 12cm^2 twinscroll turbine housing is a t3 flange housing. This mated to a NON-divided runner manifold has produced a 132mph trap speed with a full weight 1g AWD. This is about 600whp. So the flow is there with the stock housing if you use a non-divided manifold. The spool speed of the 7blade hx35 is similar to the 8blade hx35 with 20+ psi by 3500rpms in the bolton housing and by 4000rpms with the stock housing with a non-divided manifold.
 
Anyone else gotten close to these number because I remember reading that the bep housing will be a restriction. Maybe that was on the seven blade hx35's

It doesn't matter which hx35 you use, you can still see up to 52lbs/min. The 8 blade hx35 would be a perfect match to the bolt on housing.
Show me a 16G that can do that. :thumb:
 
It will be way easier to get in to the 400 whp range with a hx35 bolt on then a 20g. You won't be able to flow to it's fullest potential due to the bolt on housing but it will still far exceed the 20g with a 2-300 rpm later spool.
 
C'mon, I think the FP 68HTA with a 2.4L would be an ultimate street car, you'd probably spool so fast/hard you'd have traction issues. Tell me that would not be badass.
 
the problem with turbos that sized is that they will run out of steam up top if im correct. Ive got an evo 3 on the car right now and will be running that tell i get funds for this turbo. Should be a month from now when i purchase. Im almost 100% sold on a 20g just because of its direct bolt on capability and the fact it will be spooled by 3000 rpms and still propel me close to my 400 whp goal.
 
my plans are to max out the 20g on pump gas, then down the road when i get tired of that upgrade my injectors to ###### 1600's to allow me to run e85. I have stations that carry the stuff all over my state. Then with that i should be able to max the turbo out to around 450hp or so. Id love to be able to get my hands on the 20g horsepower record haha. right now i believe its around 437 or so. Someone correct me if im wrong.
 
not bad numbers, problem is with a smaller turbo like that to get those numbers your going to be having to have an amazing tune and everything perfectly adjusted. WIth a slightly larger turbo it allows you to get the numbers easier and not be as worried about tune and also durability of the turbo. This is gonna be my daily driver so id love to be able to get close to 400 and never have to adjust anything. If this was a strictly weekend car or something like that sure id run a 16g on e85 with an amazing tune and maybe even nitrous. The goals i have leave me with a bigger turbo, ive even thought about the fp green but that seems to be more than i am wanting in a turbo. 20g seems perfect. Now i need to research different makes of the 20g like tdo5h td06h and super 20gs.
 
those guys werent just using a 16g, they were also running a medley of e85, race gas, meth injection, nitrous, stuff like that to get those numbers. I am not going to be using e85 or anything like this its going to be pump. At least at first. Also just because i have a 2.4l doesnt mean that its gonna make more power, i do get more torque however as well as much increased spool :) This is going to be a street engine, low rpms low spool and a reliable turbo for upper 300 low 400 whp. 20g seems ideal for the money and for my want of not running e85. A guy with a 2.0 just ran his 20g and at 20psi was making 396 whp i believe. That was with a 264/272 cam combo. I have fp2 cams in my very near future and probably 22 psi on pump. That should net me my goals but only time will tell!
 
well while you spend money on a turbo not much bigger than the 16g I'll be macing mine out and I'll let you know how it goes. I've seen some crazy $hit from e316g cars. I've seen them out perform many 50 trim cars as well. I say spend your money on professional tuning. Your car will most likely run better tuned well with a small turbo as oposed to tuned poorly with a large turbo.
 
the problem with running any 16g with my 2,4l engine is gonna be that the turbo will run out of steam in the higher rpm, that is not such an issue for the 20g, sure if you want a peak horsepower number go ahead and have a higher number lower in the power band, but i am looking for a more evenly distributed power band where the 20g will allow me to have that power in upper rpms.
 
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