Looking for pics of your AFPR Install

[Stoner]

I just got the aeromotive afpr, guage, and s/s return line install kit from slowboy. I have a few ideas on where I am going to install it but I would like to see what you did.

Thanks,
Ben

 

[jabinya]

I wish the guys at home depot would leave me alone!

It was in the section where they keep the sheet metal and angle irons. Been to a couple of Home Depots and Lowe's and they all keep them in a different place. Its a 3ft long, 1 1/2" wide. Ran bout $7.

 

[silvercoupe97]

I wish the guys at home depot would leave me alone!

It was in the section where they keep the sheet metal and angle irons. Been to a couple of Home Depots and Lowe's and they all keep them in a different place. Its a 3ft long, 1 1/2" wide. Ran bout $7.

Awesome, thanks! I've probably only passed it several times and just didn't see it, .

 

[1badtsi]

finally......... adding my pics, i did promise

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home made kit... holla

 

[QCV8eater]

Here's mine. The reg is made for -10AN, but put an adaptor to -6.

 

[DSMunknown]

I did my AFPR install a few months ago. I have some thoughts and comments.

For anyone who is following this how-to thread, there are some things you must take a few things into consideration. Here are a few things I realized when installing this product and this product. Here they are, in no particular order.

• Use painter's tape. Do not use eletrical tape or duct tape. Why do I suggest painter's tape over anything else? Painter's tape is made up of paper, so it will burn when you are cutting through the SS braids. Eletrical and duct tape are made up of plastic, which will tend to melt. When this melting happens, the tape will get in the way of cutting, and part of the SS braids will unravel and not stay tight against the rest of the braids. Just use painter's tape. You'll thank me later.
• Do not remove the tape when installing the SS line onto the AN fitting. Removing the tape will tend to lift the SS braids off the hose, which will make it that much harder putting on the AN fitting. Don't worry, the tape won't effect the security of the AN fitting staying on.
• Check to see if the AN fitting is a reverse fitting. "What is a reverse fitting?" you ask. A reverse fitting actually is incorporated with reverse threads (thus the reason why the fitting is called a "reverse" fitting). The point in having reverse threading is to tighten down and secure the female AN fitting when installing it on an appropriate male AN fitting. When these two fittings are being tightened together, the female AN reverse fitting with continue to grab/bite down on the SS line, instead of loosening up. When I purchased these two products from Import Evolution, I noticed all the female AN fittings were reverse fittings. So following the above how-to guide that Bob put together will not be a very good reference point when he tells you to "bash the fitting on a counter top".
• Utilize a handheld cut off wheel, not a handheld drill fitted with a cut off wheel.
• When looking at some of Bob's photos, you should notice that his fittings are all scratched up. For those of you who care and are looking for the "bling" status, use an old rag and wrap the female AN fitting. Put this fitting in a vise and lightly tighten the AN fitting in. Then use a wrench and slowly start to turn the male AN fitting on. This way, none of your fittings will be scuffed up.

There are several other notes that I have skipped over, either because they are widely known, or because they have already been covered over and over again.

 

[99gst_racer]

[*]Use painter's tape. Do not use electrical tape or duct tape. Why do I suggest painter's tape over anything else? Painter's tape is made up of paper, so it will burn when you are cutting through the SS braids. Electrical and duct tape are made up of plastic, which will tend to melt. When this melting happens, the tape will get in the way of cutting, and part of the SS braids will unravel and not stay tight against the rest of the braids. Just use painter's tape. You'll thank me later.

Good call on the painter's tape. That's one that I haven't tried using yet, but sounds like a winner. I second the notion that plastic tape sucks for cutting through. The best adhesive tape that I've used so far is the thin acrylic packaging tape that has the thin fiberglass strands running through it. The tape itself is pretty thin and weak, so it's easy to cut through. And the fiberglass strands offer support and hold the steel over-braid tightly together. This is the best picture I could find of the fiberglass packaging tape. PIC

[*]Do not remove the tape when installing the SS line onto the AN fitting. Removing the tape will tend to lift the SS braids off the hose, which will make it that much harder putting on the AN fitting. Don't worry, the tape won't effect the security of the AN fitting staying on.

Now, this, I couldn't disagree more with. (sorry) The tape should ALWAYS be removed. Every single major fitting manufacturer will recommend removing the tape. It's even printed in all of the manufacturer's catalogs (Aeroquip, Russell, Earls, XRP, etc...). Fitment and positive clamping relys on diameter and material. If you leave tape on the end of the hose where the fitting goes, you are intentionally changing the outside diameter of the part of the hose and well as the material. The fittings are designed to only work with a specific diameter range, and leaving the tape on the end could take it out of that range.

Now I know that many people have left the tape on and have had good luck, but many also have not. I've had a stainless braided hose blow out of the fitting attached to my AFPR while I was going WOT about 4 years ago. Fuel sprayed all over the engine bay and the car stalled. I was luck it didn't cause an engine fire. I learned that it was because of the electrical tape that was still wrapped around the hose (not installed by myself).

Honestly, there should never be a reason to leave the tape there. It's entirely possible to install a braided hose into a fitting without tape, and if done correctly, it's actually pretty easy.

[*]When looking at some of Bob's photos, you should notice that his fittings are all scratched up. For those of you who care and are looking for the "bling" status, use an old rag and wrap the female AN fitting. Put this fitting in a vise and lightly tighten the AN fitting in. Then use a wrench and slowly start to turn the male AN fitting on. This way, none of your fittings will be scuffed up.

Even better; I have been using these for years:

Aluminum vice jaws: They are soft and fit all fittings well. They are also magnetic so they will usually stay in the vice when it's loosened.

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AN wrenches: All aluminum and sized accordingly. They put no stress on the corners of the fittings and keep scratching down to a minimum.

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[DSMunknown]

Good call on the painter's tape. That's one that I haven't tried using yet, but sounds like a winner. I second the notion that plastic tape sucks for cutting through. The best adhesive tape that I've used so far is the thin acrylic packaging tape that has the thin fiberglass strands running through it. The tape itself is pretty thin and weak, so it's easy to cut through. And the fiberglass strands offer support and hold the steel over-braid tightly together. This is the best picture I could find of the fiberglass packaging tape. PIC

If you happened to notice in Bob's write-up, he recently edited it at the end of June. I asked him to specifically mention that he used painter's tape. (I also mentioned to Bob a few other notes that were absolutely necessary to his write-up. He knows what I'm refering to. ) Newbies would use other stuff in not directed otherwise.

Now, this, I couldn't disagree more with. (sorry) The tape should ALWAYS be removed. Every single major fitting manufacturer will recommend removing the tape. It's even printed in all of the manufacturer's catalogs (Aeroquip, Russell, Earls, XRP, etc...). Fitment and positive clamping relys on diameter and material. If you leave tape on the end of the hose where the fitting goes, you are intentionally changing the outside diameter of the part of the hose and well as the material. The fittings are designed to only work with a specific diameter range, and leaving the tape on the end could take it out of that range.

Now I know that many people have left the tape on and have had good luck, but many also have not. I've had a stainless braided hose blow out of the fitting attached to my AFPR while I was going WOT about 4 years ago. Fuel sprayed all over the engine bay and the car stalled. I was luck it didn't cause an engine fire. I learned that it was because of the electrical tape that was still wrapped around the hose (not installed by myself).

Honestly, there should never be a reason to leave the tape there. It's entirely possible to install a braided hose into a fitting without tape, and if done correctly, it's actually pretty easy.

I took this advice directly from my uncle, who has been drag racing for 25+ years now. He helped me with the installation. I figure keeping the SS threading undisturbed as much as possible is the idea behind this. The more the braiding is disturbed, the harder it will be to install the SS lines onto the AN fittings.

Even better; I have been using these for years:

Aluminum vice jaws: They are soft and fit all fittings well. They are also magnetic so they will usually stay in the vice when it's loosened.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

AN wrenches: All aluminum and sized accordingly. They put no stress on the corners of the fittings and keep scratching down to a minimum.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Good stuff.

I went down to Springfield, MA back in the winter (February). There was some sort of massive aftermarket performance parts sale down there (only for American muscle car enthusiasts). Anyways, there was a product there that made installing AN fittings to SS braided lines look completely effortless. The guy was hacking the ends of SS lines like you wouldn't believe. Some of them looked like they fell under the lawn mower. Anyways, the product was only about 20 or 30 bucks. When I go back down this upcoming winter I'll definately make that purchase and make a post/blog about it.

 

[RipperXX]

Here is mine..

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[bmoha2]

I placed my afpr kit exactly where sleepyvr4 did. Works out really well and looks clean and tidy. I got my kit thru slowboy and was egnerally happy with the quality etc. I had never done anything with an fittings before and followed all the instructions. I wrapped the ends with black tape and made clean cuts with a dremel tool and then was very dissappointed when I tried to put the ss hose into the fittings even with motor oil. I got it in and it looked functional butI scraped up the an fitting in the vise and was kinda bummed because it would be very visible. So I went down to the local V8 speed shop. They specialize in building crazy ass v8 muscle car kind of things and had insane blown V8s all over the place. I asked the guy that worked there about the fittings and he took it from me, I had bought a new section of ss hose and a new an fitting and he cut the end off clean with a set of ss hose cutting shears, and pressed the ss hose into the an fitting with no tape, no oil and no tools just his hands. It took seconds and worked slicker than shit. He said the key was the ss hose cutting shears and a little elbow grease. After cutting with the shears he held the an fitting in one hand and the hose with the other and simply pressed one into the other. He said the key was to press it straight in with no twisting as twisting would start to unravel the ss weave. He said he had done it thousands of times. I did the other side at home after finding out afpr placement for length and cut the ss hose end with a dremel tool again as I didn't have any shears. I had to wrap the end that I was cutting with black tape, which I wound on very tightly, to prevent any fraying and then just like he said just pressed the ss hose into the fitting. In the process of pressing the ss hose into the fitting it slid the black tape back and voila it was done! No motor oil! I did put on some motor oil before I started tightening down the lug and t went prefectly.

 

[99gst_racer]

My company's label makes those shears that you speak of. If they weren't so damned expensive, I'd own a set for myself.

Allstar Performance

 

[bmoha2]

the set of ss hose shears he had were alot smaller than those. They were about the size of a big set of pliers or nines.

 

[bmoha2]

Turns out the ss hose shears were the same thing as small gauge copper cable cutters. For cutting copper cables less than a inch in diameter. I had three pairs sitting in my work truck. They work perfectly.

 

[Raph]

heres another way to go.. dont use ss line.. use good quality reinforced fuel line.. slips on easier and doesnt look to blingy like ss hose does.

 

[chicagoavenger]

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[/IMG]

 

[snowborder714]

Here's a pic of my install. Aeromotive A1000 13101 AFPR (-10AN side ports and -6AN return) with Marshall gauge and -8AN rail to AFPR line. Ano-tuff/Anodized fittings.

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[bmoha2]

What is that brake resivoir?

 

[snowborder714]

What is that brake resivoir?

It is a stock reservoir with a Hayame dress-up cap over the stock cap.

I have a few other engine dress-up parts (you can see the clutch reservoir cover on the right).

 

[housegsx]

I got my Aeromotive frp installed today and snapped a few pics. No wonder this thread is 7 pages long so far... What a bi*** trying to find a place to mount it.

Anyway, I ended up mounting it with the bracket on my intake manifold where the coil pack bolts down. The feed line to it is only a couple inches long and it's down and out of the way.

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[silvercoupe97]

Here's a pic of my install. Aeromotive A1000 13101 AFPR (-10AN side ports and -6AN return) with Marshall gauge and -8AN rail to AFPR line. Ano-tuff/Anodized fittings.

That's pretty clean bud. The dress ups do enhance that crappy little area. I need to sand my little reservoir bracket too

 

[snowborder714]

That's pretty clean bud. The dress ups do enhance that crappy little area. I need to sand my little reservoir bracket too

Thanks!

I've been doing a lot of work on the car lately (upgrading parts and fixing others) and have really been focused on cleaning up the engine bay.

 

[chicagoavenger]

Anyone know if those caps will fit on a 1g? If not can you just swap out the resevoirs from a 2g onto a 1g?

 

[DSMunknown]

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Christ, that adjustment screw is low. Wish mine was like that.

 

[deflator]

I finished mine up today. The bracket for the power steering seemed the best place to put it, since its pretty much empty space between it and the timing belt cover.

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[snowborder714]

Anyone know if those caps will fit on a 1g? If not can you just swap out the resevoirs from a 2g onto a 1g?

If you're talking about the chrome dress up covers I have, yes, they should work on any Eclipse. There are different sizes for different covers and such, but a lot of them are universal.

 

[housegsx]

Christ, that adjustment screw is low. Wish mine was like that.

Hmm, yeah I dunno that's where it ended up for 43psi.